Here is what you need before starting your B16A1 swap project:
Prepare your motor:
Start by taking a quick inventory of what exactly it was that you got. Then, figure out what else you need. (This is also a great time to install type 'R' goodies.) Next, tackle the wiring while the motor is still out of the car. Inspecting and/or replacing the oil filter, alternator belt timing belt, water pump, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs is also very convenient at this point. If you try to replace the spark plugs, the NGK # is BKR6E-N-11. Good luck finding them locally. Call up Monarch Products, 888-800-9629. Their motto: IF NGK MAKES IT, WE STOCK IT! They are the domestic distributor for NGK.
Depending on what kind of motor mounting system you use can make this part easy or hard. To make it easy on yourself, hit your mom up for a loan so you can get an HASport bolt in kit. Follow the directions and don't ignore the part where they tell you to bash in the framerail for alternator clearance.
Hooking it all up:
If you got your wiring done, that should plug right in. You may notice there is a technicality when using a JDM ECU. The ECU won't sit totally flat in it's mounting and the code indicator LED window does not line up with the hole in the ECU cover plate. This is because cars are right hand drive in Japan. The ECU is supposed to be on the left hand side of the car with the connectors facing right, so the way your installing the ECU is actually upside-down. Don't worry about it sitting totally flat, and drill a hole in the cover plate so you can see what code is flashing if you have a problem.
Most of the lines and hoses will work fine as well. I ran into a little dilemma with the upper and lower radiator hoses. It seems that a b-series motor uses 32mm ID hoses and D-series motors use 28mm. So, if you don't want to buy any extra parts, stretch the small hoses on the big connections. Regarding length, the lower hose will reach just fine, the upper will not.
To strecth 28mm hose onto a 32mm connection, I made a 32mm "hose stretcher" - a round piece of barstock turned to the correct diameter on my lathe, with a 28-32mm taper on the end. For the upper hose I used an '89 integra lower hose I had laying around. I had to employ the hose stretcher and then cut it to the right length at the radiator.
Your going to need to get a shift linkage out of any Acura Integra '86 - '00. Even an old '84 - '87 Civic/CRX linkage will work. Depending on what you get, you will have to shorten or lengthen it to fit right. Or, you can buy an adjustable linkage from a few different places. It's only $. I used a '89 Integra linkage because I just happened to have one. (It's about 3" too short.)
You will also probably need an exhaust downpipe, as most packages sit on pallets better without the downpipe in the way. I have no advice other than to ask around if you don't have one. I got mine from someone on the Hybrid site and ended up not needing it because I found a nice JDM RS*R header. As for the rest of the exhaust, fitting up to the B-series "A pipe" (downpipe) it should fit fine. Don't take my word for it though, I'm using that RS*R piece, remember?
If you don't have an intake tube (the plastic one that feeds the throttle body), or if yours was cut in half (as mine was), you can use a '90 - '93 Integra unit. However, the integra tube is a few inches too long. If you cut a section out of your airbox lid extension tube, it can work just fine. Or, there are other options:
There are a couple of opinions on which axles to use. '86 - '89 Integra or '90 - '93 Integra. Take 5 minutes and READ this page HASport prepared. Axle details. Thanks HASport!
One last thing, if you have air conditioning, your compressor will not fit. Unfortunately, you cannot buy a bracket which will fit both the B-block and the 4G USDM compressor either. So, you have some options: