Welcome to the AutoFAQ.
This file is unmoderated. You can probably expect it to be somewhat of
a jumbled mess, but with some search techniques, you should be able to
find what you're looking for.
Re: crank pully (more) it is a bitch, SECRET...
Question:
Well, when I did this, no amount of leverage/breaker bars/etc. would
budge that baby except for an impact wrench. That bold is usally a
real bitch kitty to get off. I broke down and bought an impact
wrench for like $35 bucks, and that pulled the bolt off slicker than
grease...didn't even need to support the flywheel or anything to keep
it from turning. Good luck!
-x-
Answer:
I didn't know how to tackle that bolt either...Who would have EVER
thought that thing could be so tight...Hmmm.
I ended up removing the flywheel inspection cover (along with a brace
to the exhaust...once removed, I jammed a bigger screwdriver into the
teeth on the outside of the flywheel "so it had a solid place on the
outside of the trans case" to consider that side "locked".
I then took a 1/2 Craftsman rachet W/short peice of pipe (not much
room when on floor jacks...HERES THE SECRET...
You need room to swing the hammer, so put it on the last one or two
notches the rachet will allow, Apply moderate torque (like your
trying to undo it as you would... AND THEN "Wack it with a hammer on
the rachet very close to the head of the rachet" (two inches out).
The third Wack did it for me (I was getting MAD!)
Woz
Who now knows "long levers take more torque".
(this was with a 16-Oz hammer..The biggest I own!)
It worked for me....I'm not going there again!
Posted by: Woz
on June 05, 2000 at 17:18:50.
I've had that same question before.
Question:
I'll be needing to do this again soon on the b16 because I didn't do it right the first time. My main question is how do I know what level of drag is
good? slides easily both ways? slides out easily but difficult to push in?
thanks guys. I know some of you guys consider this an art. :)
John
Answer:
"How much valves should be adjusted"
That's one thing that isn't noted on the instructions.
It definitely cannot slide easily back and forth. You will notice
that the strip will slide differently depending on which side you are
working on (Inlet or Exhaust). Try to make them the same all the way
ACROSS on the inlet side, and same for the exhaust side. The amount
of drag felt on the exhaust side can be different from the amount of
drag on the inlet side since you are using different guage strips.
Also it MUST have drag, but not so much that you can't pull the strip
out.
So here is how much I've been tightening:
Tighten it enough so that when you slide the strip back and forth it
will make a squeaking sound. In order for this to occur there must
definitely be a good amount of drag: which is enough to make the
squeaking noise, but also enough to allow you to create that noise.
I've adjusted the valves on a few ZCs like this and everything runs
well.
Remember though, the noise coming from the engine when it is running
is excessive when the valves are too loose. That is why I tighten
them with the extra amount of drag (yet it still stays in spec). HTH
AS
Posted by: snakeyez
on June 06, 2000 at 10:14:41.
Re: OEM Foglight Switch -pictures/details...
Question:
Well this is not a speech about being put down by the Man or Uncle Sam.
I just NEED to find 88-91 OEM fog lights!! They are showing up
discontinued but they have to be somewhere, right? Besides the junkyards..
Any Info would help. Or, if anyone knows what aftermarket foggies fit or
can be modified to fit. Thanks all.
Answer:
the number M9094 as depicted on the part doesn't appear to be a Honda Code, or Honda Part number at Manchester Honda
(hondaautomotiveparts.com) - there are no other part/serial numbers on it...
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/1.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/2.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/3.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/4.jpg]
Just got off of the phone with my local honda dealer, they had some trouble with the part number, and actually gave me a "Honda
Code number of: 3384708" - retails at $15.00+/- and they have about a dozen in their regional warehouse (I just ordered two more of
them)
Manchester Honda has it at:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/MajesticHonda/searchrslthncde.d2w/report
(may have to
cut+paste the url) or just go to the site, and search by "honda code".
-Ryan
Posted by: Ryan Runnels
on July 14, 2000 at 05:56:08.
Re: OEM Foglight Switch -pictures/details...
Question:
Well this is not a speech about being put down by the Man or Uncle Sam.
I just NEED to find 88-91 OEM fog lights!! They are showing up
discontinued but they have to be somewhere, right? Besides the junkyards..
Any Info would help. Or, if anyone knows what aftermarket foggies fit or
can be modified to fit. Thanks all.
Answer:
the number M9094 as depicted on the part doesn't appear to be a Honda Code, or Honda Part number at Manchester Honda
(hondaautomotiveparts.com) - there are no other part/serial numbers on it...
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/1.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/2.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/3.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/4.jpg]
Just got off of the phone with my local honda dealer, they had some trouble with the part number, and actually gave me a "Honda
Code number of: 3384708" - retails at $15.00+/- and they have about a dozen in their regional warehouse (I just ordered two more of
them)
Manchester Honda has it at:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/MajesticHonda/searchrslthncde.d2w/report
(may have to
cut+paste the url) or just go to the site, and search by "honda code".
-Ryan
Posted by: Ryan Runnels
on July 14, 2000 at 05:56:08.
Gee Steve....
Answer:
I'll take props on all that work. Yes, I made that Excel document. I noticed that before you made those screen shots you DELETED
my name from the title of the right hand chart on
[Image http://207.235.26.17/projects/projects_1st_gen_integra_motor_86-7_si_to_88-9_teg_wiring_page_1.jpg]
It should read "TJ's DOHC PGM-FI EW3 harness w/D16A1 ECU (M/T)"
I don't know if anyone has actually tried making all those wiring changes yet, I just laid all that out to compare ECU connections
between the 1G PGM-FI CRX and the 88-89 Integra. No promises that it will actually work.
I did have it on my webpage for a while available for anyone to download, doing my part for the CRX community, but if your going to
appropriate my work, the least you can do is GIVE ME CREDIT.
Damn....
-TJ
Posted by: -TJ
on September 07, 2000 at 22:24:16.
Re: Gee Steve....
Question:
I'll take props on all that work. Yes, I made that Excel document. I noticed that before you made those screen shots you DELETED
my name from the title of the right hand chart on
[Image http://207.235.26.17/projects/projects_1st_gen_integra_motor_86-7_si_to_88-9_teg_wiring_page_1.jpg]
It should read "TJ's DOHC PGM-FI EW3 harness w/D16A1 ECU (M/T)"
I don't know if anyone has actually tried making all those wiring changes yet, I just laid all that out to compare ECU connections
between the 1G PGM-FI CRX and the 88-89 Integra. No promises that it will actually work.
I did have it on my webpage for a while available for anyone to download, doing my part for the CRX community, but if your going to
appropriate my work, the least you can do is GIVE ME CREDIT.
Damn....
-TJ
Answer:
TJ, have another look at that screenshot. There's nothing doctored
there. This is exactly as it appeared on my screen, when I hit ctrl-
print screen.
You're rather ascerbic about this whole issue, and you're highly
sceptical about my reasoned explanation. I don't want to be a part
of that -- not worth my time. I've pulled the images from the site,
and I'll refer anyone who asks about such a swap to you.
Posted by: Steve Jones
on September 17, 2000 at 17:31:21.
Hmmm...
First off, let me say that with a stock DX front bar and a stock Si
rear bar, it's not going to be anything near dangerous. The diff
between the front DX and Si bars are only 1mm, DX being the smaller
one. If you want to talk about some dangerous oversteer, let's talk
about my car... a '93 Si with a stock 22.5mm front bar and a 22mm
rear Progressive bar. While it's not dangerous to me because I'm
used to it, I'd be money that someone who wasn't expecting it would
plant the rear into a tree.
A sway is basically a spring, and being such, will increase your
spring rates. When you increase the spring rates, you should also
increase the bound and rebound rates of the shocks. However, with
the stock Si bar, it's so weak, you won't have to worry about
upgrading your shocks to compensate.
When I put the stock Si bar in my DX way back when, the only
difference I noticed was that the rear wheels didn't rub anymore. It
was only slightly more rotatable. However... with the EG, you crank
in a little rudder to get it turning, and once it rotates, you bring
it back to neutral for most of the turn and cancel the turn with a
wee bit of opposite input. Yes, I'm running stock shocks, and yes, I
plan on getting some Illuminas.
SOmething I just thought of- my EG didn't have a rear swaybar, or
even provisions for one. The Progress kit mounts to the arms with L
brackets that get bolted to the arm using the lower shock bolts.
Then the usual end links between the L brackets and the bar. Perhaps
you could do this instead of finding Si LCAs? Or... If the bar
isn't wide enough to get to the shock bolts (or lined up with 'em),
weld on some L brackets to the arms? Another thing- you'll have to
cut small access holes in the side of the frame to get the bar to
mount to the frame. This is fine, but I feel that it weakens the
area. What I would do, if you're ever planning on upgrading the bars
to bigger ones, is to cut an 1/8" piece of steel to fit inside the
frame where the bolts go through to strenthen the frame. When I
bolted up the bar mounts to the body of the DX, I could wiggle them
back and forth, flexing the metal of the frame around where they
mounted. It never fatigued or cracked in the year or so that I had
the stock Si bar back there, but it may if you go with a bigger bar...
Hope that helps.
Posted by: Ji Simmons
on November 19, 2000 at 14:19:14.
attach a 3/8" to 1/4" convertor to a 5" extension
Question:
i have gotten everyrhing off of my trans except the shirt linkage(due to
the stuck pin) and the axles, which i didnt even get to start on yet.but
anyway, how the frig do i get that rusted pin out? i am very tempted to
drill straight through it. any suggetions?
Answer:
Attach your 1/4" converting thingy to the little 3/8" socket
extension piece.
Get under the car and set it under the hole.
Then hammer HARD. You have to hammer the back of the extension very
very hard. Don't hurt yourself doing it, but if a guy weighing about
100 can do it, i'm sure you can do it to.
the pin that holds the shift linkage in is also known as the "Bitch
pin"
Try not to waste time and keep hitting it. You will need to hit it
hard. Don't show mercy.
Posted by: SnakEyez
on November 26, 2000 at 15:24:25.
What do you want to know?
I used the following...
B18A block (rebuilt with new bearings, seals, JDM ITR pistons,
shotpeened PR4 rods shaved to fit pistons, balanced assembly)
B16A head
ARP 8mm rod bolts
B18C1 oil pump (replacement/upgrade part)
B18A water pump (replacement part)
B18A head gasket
B18A timing belt
B18C1 head bolts
1/8 NPT brass plug (hollow)
3/8 NPT male to 4AN male fitting
1/8 NPT male to 4AN male fitting (x6)
1/8 NPT 'T' fitting with female ends (x2)
4 lengths of 4AN stainless lines with female ends
Here's how you put it together...
...the 1/8 plug goes into the oil pathway in the head that is closest
to the rear, distributor side of the head. This pathway needs to be
threaded with a 1/8 NPT tap.
...the 3/8 to -4 fitting goes in place of a plug in the back of the
head, behind the distributor. The existing plug can be removed with a
hex wrench.
...one of the 1/8 to -4 fittings goes in place of the stock oil
press. sending unit in the back of the block. It can be unscrewed
from it's stock location.
...three more 1/8 to -4 fittings will mate to one of the 'T'
fittings. One length of ss line goes from block to 'T'. Another
length goes from 'T' to my oil pressure gauge. Another length goes to
the second 'T' fitting.
...the last two 1/8 to -4 fittings mate to the last 'T'. One of which
accepts the affore mentioned ss line from the first 'T'. Now, another
ss line connects the other 1/8 in this 'T' to your 3/8 fitting in the
head. That just leaves one opening for the stock oil pressure sending
unti to screw into.
...Now for the dowel pins. There are two dowel pins aligning the head
and block. They go around two of your head bolts. Which two is the
problem... on the B18A block, it's the two inner most bolt holes on
the exhaust side. On the B16A head, it's the holes next to those,
farther away from the center... also on the exhaust side. I bored out
these hols in the head, and also made the same modifications to the
head gasket. Gaskets are fragile so this should be done with care.
Now everything gets put together and torqued and the newly assembled
long block is mated to your transmission. Everything is then dropped
back into your car and the fun begins.
That's everything, parts... to assembly... to drop in. All told, the
entire project cost me a little less than $1500 to complete... which
was my goal. I already had the B16A head and S1 tranny but the rest
is included in that price. Hope this helps answer your questions...
now someone make sure this get's FAQ'd! ;o)
-Kevin
Posted by: Kevin
on December 08, 2000 at 15:37:59.
Body seam seal (long)
Question:
What causes almost every crx to leak when it rains. I have a 91 DX without
a sun roof. Could the lil plastic tubes be clogged from that hatch drain.
Every one's Crx around here has the same problem. It dont think its
leaking from the hatch seal. Any info appreciated.
Answer:
After removing and replacing the sunroof in my 91 Si, I found it
wasn't the problem. Turns out the seam where the roof panel is
welded to the quarter panel of the car was causing the problem.
At the factory the two panels are spot welded togther and the
small gap left is filled with body sealer. As time goes by the
sealer hardens and then cracks allowing water to enter the
seam and get inside the car. I used some 3M "Heavy Drip Check
Sealer" to fix mine, it's available at autobody supply stores.
The seam is at the top two corners of the hatch jamb. The two
black black thingies that run the length of the roof conceal the
weld between the two panels. My car was leaking at the very end
of the passenger black strip right at the end. I popped off the
black thing with a small flatblade screwdriver and cleaned out
the crud in there, then applied the sealer over the old cracked
sealer. This stopped the leak for a few months, but now it's
back. (Although not as bad.) The proper way to fix this is to dig
out all the old crusty sealer, prime it with catalyzed primer and
then reseal the seam. I may do this before I repaint my car.
Hope this helps!
Posted by: Mike Blommel
on January 02, 2001 at 08:02:51.
A trick and a review.
Question:
i wanna put poly bushings throughout my car but are they gonna squeak? I
already have a progress camber kit with poly bushings in the front and
they squeak like crazy.i wanna stiffen it up but i dont know if i can deal
with the noise. does anyone know of a greasable polyeurathane kit for the
crx?
Answer:
I put the ES Master Kit + Trailing arm Kit on my car over Christmas.
If you want to do the Trailing Arms (Highly Recommended), you have to
order those seperately, for another $25 or so.
Like everyone says, Royal PIA. I figured out a trick to getting
stubborn ones out though. Get a jig saw with a long metal cutting
blade. Push the center sleeve out where there is only the outer
sleeve and some rubber left. This is fairly easy. Use the jig saw
to cut through the outer sleeve in 2 places, about .25" from each
other. Use a punch and hammer to get the 1/4" Sliver out, then the
rest of the bushing hammers out very easy. This was for the LCA's.
The trailing arem bushings were the worst for 2 reasons. 1, you have
to reuse the outer shell, and they recommend not pressing it out of
the Trailing arm. 2, I left the trailing arms on the car because I
didn't want to disconnect the brakes. I cut most of the rubber out
with the jig saw, and cleaned up the rest with a wire brush on a die
grinder.
Anyway, I love the way they stiffened up the car. I live in Atlanta,
which has fairly good roads, but they don't seem too stiff to me. I
installed my GC's with stiffer springs at the same time, so it was a
dramatic change. My car used to have a problem with taking a set in
a corner. The rear end would skip. I believe this was due to the
deteriorated Trailing Arm Bushings. That problem is now gone. In
general, the car just feels much more confident in aggressive
driving.
As for noise, I got the Black Bushings, which have graphite
Impregnated in them, and I also used the grease liberally, and I
haven't heard my first squeak, even with temps down in the single
digits.
Posted by: Dave Hardy
on January 28, 2001 at 07:41:55.
its really easy to fix
Question:
i've got an 88 crx and the damn rear hatch keeps on squeaking. I know that
it's a general problem with all crx's so i'm wondering what's the best way
to fix that up. It's so darn annoying!
Answer:
everyone has their own little witch doctor tricks for curing the
hatch squeak. heres what i like to do, loosen the screws that hold
the u shaped latch onto the hatch lid, then slide the spacer plate
out from behind the latch, now retighten the screws. this should
close the hatch down tighter and eliminatethe hatch squeak. but if it
doesnt here are a few more. the loosen the rubber feet towards the
outer edge of the hatch. try putting a little grease on the latch
(some kid swears buy this method) also you can put a bit of
electrical tape around the latch. good luck
Posted by: Gino Fultano(shoots his mouth off to the wrong people)
on February 18, 2001 at 13:07:35.
Pounding aside,....
The end link bushings (front sway bar links), the shift stabilizing
bushings, the radius rod bushings ("strut rod bushings" in kit) can
be popped out by yourself with nothing more than a wrench. The other
stuff can be pounded (easier after a few seconds under a torch) out
or cut and grinded out. Hard part really is removing all the
suspension pieces without air tools. My 88 CRX is sitting in the
parking lot right this very second without its radius rods, as I take
a break from doing those bushings. Bought a propane torch, so we'll
see about the rest of them. I figure the next-easiest set to do is
the rear lower control arms. Just unbolt them (creative jack
placement helps remove the spring/shock assembly) and pop the old
ones out, and replace the bushings and stick the units back in. The
front can get messy with axle and ball joint removal. Maybe the
steering rack won't be so bad. Hey, I should try those right now.....
-JW
Posted by: JamesW
on March 19, 2001 at 23:31:04.
It's NOT nitrous.
Ed has something like 550cc Injectors. (I can't remember the exact amount.) He is not using Propane to replace larger injectors. Again,
propane reduces the tendency of the nitrous, fuel, and air to detonate. The Propane prevents things from combusting before they are
supposed to, so you can run more timing and nitrous on the same amount of fuel.
Preventing detonation is pretty simple: You need to limit the factors that bring about detonation. So, what CUASES detonation? Lack
of fuel, hot spots in the combustion chamber, not enough octane in the fuel you are using, too much ignition timing, and some other.
Let's look at each one of these things seperately:
Lack of fuel.
This can be taken care of many different ways. You can get a different fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors, and aftermarket engine
control, or any combination of the above. If you have ALOT of boost, you need alot more fuel. If you jack up the pressure with a
pressure regulator, and you max out the injectors, the spray pattern will become more jet like that spray like. Less fuel will actually
become atomized and dispersed in a way that will burn. Larger injectors basically can pass more fuel per time open than stock
injectors. However, if you go too big on the injectors with a stock ECU, the ECU will keep them open too long (as it can't open and
shut them fast enough), and you will run pig rich at idle (and maybe all over the RPM range, depending on how rich you are running),
and that's IF the car runs at all. After market engine controls are vaulable because they can fine tune control. That means you can idle
with huge injectors, and eliminate the need for an unorthodox amount of fuel pressure. (If you run too high fuel pressure for too long,
you WILL break an injector, even if it's not maxing out the capabilities of the injector.) So, Ideally, to prpoerly run more fuel, you need
to get a fuel pressure regulator for mild mods, and some combination of bigger injectors/aftermarket ECU for more wack stuff.
Too Much Ignition timing.
This is bad becuase for several reasons, but we'll just focus on thisin regards to detonation. Too much timing will set off the air/fuel
mixture while the piston is still traveling upwards on the compression stroke at a high rate of speed. This causes a flame front and a
bunch of very hot, rapidly expanding gasses to blast though the rest of the uncombusted mixture and then into the piston. Since this is
happening too soon in the compression stroke, the mixture may not be evenly mixed yet (if it ever is in any engine), and the parts of the
cumbustion space which have more gas than others will light off first, causing pockets of forcefull burning, instead of one contnious,
"smooth" burn. This will cause detonation, and since it's happening when the piston is coming up full force, it's particuallrly bad. (ALL
detonation is bad, just for the record.) There are electronic units out ont he market that use knock detectors to detect detonation, and
the retard the ignition timing in either individual cylinders, like the J&S Safegaurd, or just in general, like some other units. I think MSD
came out with a unit like that, but I am not sure. Having dynamic control over detonation is key to having a heathy FI engine.
Not Enough Octane:
By definition, octane is the ability of fuel to resist detonation. The higher the octane, the more "abuse" fuel can take before it burns
before it's actually ignited by the spark plug. I am not exactly sure how Propane interacts with gasoline to produce higher octane in the
total system, but as Ed said, it is 110-sih octane in itself. That means it's MUCH more likely to resist detonation than 92 Octane gas.
Another way to increase octane is to incrase the "quench" in the combustion chamber. Quench is defined as artificial, or mechanical
octane. It has to do with the combustion chamber and piston interaction. Quench area is basically any part of the combustion chamber
that comes VERY close to the piston without contacting it, and is usually perpendicular to the piston motion.
See theis Post that I made about quench on the T.O.O.
Forum:http://ferrari.colowatch.com/php/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=Member_Tech&Number=17017&Search=true&Forum=Memb
er_Tech&Words=Eureka&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=2weeks&Main=17017
Gotta cut and paste, I guess.
COntrary to popular and conventional thought, Octane is not the be all and end all of determining how much your engine can put out.
It has to do with the control of combustion to get a quality burn, and that will lead to more efficiency.
Hot Spots:
There are alot of imperfections in stock heads. These can have a great effect on the overall performance of the engine. Pistons are
notorious for having casting imperfections that get glowing hot and cause the fuel to light off way too soon. Aftermarket pistons are
usually terrible in this regards, having pointes, and edges all over. Refinishings pistons and the combustion chamber can
reduce detonation quite signifigantly. Exhuast valves are also another cuase of detonation, especially with advanced timing. They
heat up, and they can get to the point where they can light off the mixture. Finally, one other cause of detonation that many people
don't think of is the build up of carbon deposits. I'm sure you've seen the info-mercials that show the valves crusted with carbon. That
carbon can cause alot of other problems besides detonation, and the easiest way to get rid of them is to run an engine cleaner like
Regaine (made by Gumout) through the engine with every oil change.
One last thing to think about: Oil vapors. Oil vapors have a flashpoint (meaning the temperature and presusre needed to ignite them)
that is MUCH lower than gas. Running the Breather tube correctly on the intake manifold, and a catch can before the PCV return to
the intake can reduce detonation AND nasty looking deposits on the intake manifold, which hamper overall performance.
So, yes, there are ways around detation. Most of it has to do with tuning correctly, and keeping a strict maintainance schedule.
Re: USDM CRXes are supoosed to do that.
Question:
As do a lot of Honda products. It isn't considered a rice thing. It is desirable to be able to indicate that you are about to turn to other
drivers that can't see your bumper lenses due to their location.
Answer:
I read the faq about wiring the corner lights to flash with the
bumperlights....What if i want my cornerlights to do all the flashing
and disable my bumperlights?
I am an utter idiot when it comes to electrical systems, so if you
could explain it to me by using examples like apples and pokeman,
that would be great.
Posted by: Mazmay
on April 04, 2001 at 10:42:27.
Re: squeaky rear Hatch!! Im going nuts
You are not alone. Very common problem. The 3 main remedies are
1) There are 2 rubber stops on the sides. Try turning them out a few
revs.
2) Duct tape or electrical tape around the latch hoop.
3) Remove the spacer under the latch hoop on the hatch.
I tried #2. Worked for a while, but had to keep replacing it. Finally
tried #3 about 2 months ago. Been quiet ever since.
Greg Hansen
'89 Si
Posted by: GregH
on April 05, 2001 at 21:24:02.
Tranny School 101
Question:
After I've been parked and put my car into reverse, my tranny grinds! WTF?
Only in reverse too. The clutch is pushed all the way in too, so what
could cause this? TIA!
Answer:
Reverse has no synchros. By shifting into ANY gear before hitting
reverse you stop all rotation of the gearsets. Just so happen reverse
works off of 1-2 gearset.
Tranny need time to "slow down" before hi8tting reverse
Posted by: Mista Bone
on May 04, 2001 at 20:39:10.
ES LCA with no Air / Press Required . . .
And you don't need to remove the LCA from the car.
First while the car is in the air - ( lift / jackstands ) you need to cut the webbing that holds the pin in the bushing. This allows the pin to
be unbolted and removed. The bushing will have a nice donut of rubber remaining. Here is the elbow-grease portion of the job.
Now using a fish filet knife or similar, start to cut out the remnants of the rubber donut. When you have the rubber out, you will be left
with about 1/16" that is too tough to remove. Get a drill and the round scotch-brite pads ( you can get them for rotary tools ) Using the
pads, remove the remaining rubber and polish up the shell.
The pin you removed will have a large rubber piece bonded to it. Using vice-grips, and a torch ( propane / Acetalene etc )
carbonize the rubber, Do this OUTSIDE as it produces a huge amount of smoke, and releases a wack o'nasty chemicals. Using
whatever is at hand, old screwdrivers, channel locks etc, remove the rubber from the pin. When its gone, polish the pin on a wire
wheel or similar.
For installation of the new ES bushings, you will need a threaded rod, 2 nuts and 2 metal plates withe a hole large enough for the rod.
You are going to make a press. You will put the rod thru the LCA, with a plate and nut on one end. On the other end you place the ES
bushing, the other plate and the nut. Now with a little patience ( 5 min ) you will tighten the nuts to push the bushing into the sleeve.
Remember to use LOTS of that nasty gooey sticky grease they provide. - When the bushing is in, remove the rod assembly. Lube
the pin, slide it thru the new bushing and reinstall the mounting bolts. You are now finished.
Some consider this method a PITA, but it is ALOT easier than total removal of the LCA, finding a shop to do the press work, pulling
out your wallet then having to reinstall the whole thing. I did both of mine this way in about 2 hours or so, and this was on a 90Si that
had seen 9 Canadian winters by this time without ever haveing a wrench in this area.
Anyway, good luck and hope this helps...
Posted by: mykel
on June 18, 2001 at 00:31:10.
not impossible.......
Posted by: Mista Bone
on July 03, 2001 at 23:49:15.
Fuel injector (AUTOFAQ)
Question:
are the o-rings you mention the injector seals i was told to replace
or are these separate? im looking to clean and restore them in
whatever way possible. i believe i have "leaky injectors". thanks.
Answer:
It's pretty easy to pull the injectors.
You have to take off the wire harness first.
This is the hardest part of it all.
Disconnect all this, and then diconnect the round plug and the green
plug on the driver side to pull the harness out of the way.
Next you use a 7/8" wrench and open the fuel rail SLOWLY.
(Actually you get rid of the fuel pressure first, but I'm lazy and I
just open it very slowly with a rag around the damn thing. In order
to bleed properly you should open the 10mm bolt on the fuel filter.)
Then you pull the fuel line going to the fuel pressure regulator.
Also get the vacuum line off.
Next on the back of the rail you take off the 3 nuts holding it in
place. Once you have these out, you can pull carefully on the rail
and pull it out with the injectors. There will be alot of fuel
leaking all over the place so be ready with a rag.
You can simply pull on the injectors and they will come out. Those O-
rings at the top of the injectors are the seals. Also if you go back
and look on the intake manifold you will see a larger set of O
rings.
If you have leaky injectors, I recommend replacing both of these.
Also clean around the sides of the tip of the injector. Mine had
alot of gunk on it, and I dipped it in alcohol to clean it up.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Posted by: SnakEyez (EFing_A)
on July 06, 2001 at 05:43:05.
Re: Pro-kit and blues
On the CRX the camber setting of the wheels is not adjustable. Camber is the direction of lean of the rim/tire.
When you look at the wheels from either the front or rear, you will notice that the top of the wheel is angled slightly inward.
This causes the car to sit / ride more on the inner edge of the tire. As the car is lowered this becomes more pronounced.
This is what is refered to as Negative camber. Some negative camber is good for performance driving / racing etc. Under hard
cornering this allows the tire to "roll" over a bit. Being that you are initally riding on the inner portion of the tire, this side loading will
then have to move thru a plane that allows the tire to then be equally loaded accross its width before "rolling" onto the outer edge
where a loss of traction will occur. Note that a race alignment will not work well on the street from a tire wear perspective. This
addional lean will promote a fast tire wear on the inner edge. Under race contidions this is not an issue as max grip is what is
sought, at the expence of uneven wear.
A correction kit can take different forms. On the front it is usually and adjustable device that is inserted into the fork of the upper A
arm. This way a lateral adjustment can be made to increase or decrease this amount of "lean" In the rear of the 2nd gen CRX this
can also be accomplished by using washers as spacers to move the upper shock pickup point further away from its mount - hence
a change in the amount of "lean" or camber.
On my 90 Si, I have tokikos and Eibach pro-kits. The drop is about 1.5". When they were originally installed, I had little adverse
negative camber. BUT - when I changed all of my bushings for Energy Suspension Poly, I then had to add camber adjustment to
bring it back into a range that did not wear tires too rapidly. I used Ingals in the front and the washer space trick described above in
the rear. I currently run about -1degree both front and rear, this will give me some handleing bennefits but will not promote a large
amount of additional inner tire wear. Note that even with this amount, nearing the end of the life of the tires you can see it, the inner
edge has less tread than the outer edge.
HTH, and as usual I seem to be unable to answer a question without writing a novel......
Posted by: mykel
on July 06, 2001 at 10:55:21.
Re: depends on the jackshaft.
Question:
reading up on what I can I can't find anything on the axels. I'm figuring
that the drive/haft shaft probably would be to long to fit any other axels
in there. Do you use the 88-89 Axels?
Answer:
Passenger side is always 1990 Integra LS Non-ABS 5spd axle.
Drivers side depends on the intermediate shaft on the motor/tranny.
If you have a Y1 intermediate shaft, you use an 88-89 5spd Integra
axle with a 90-91 Integra inner CV joint.
If you have a S1 intermediate shaft, you use a 90 Integra 5spd axle.
There's a lot more on this on HASport's page:
http://www.hasport.com/
John
Posted by: John Moeller
on August 05, 2001 at 16:47:01.
Get a screwdriver.....(Benchshifting 101)
Question:
ok I ve installed the b18b back in the CRX, but now the shifter is not
moving at all? did I tighten something to tight? I mean I can't move it at
all!!!!
Answer:
unbolt the stablizer. now remove the bitch pin and shifty linkage.
Insert the screwdriver through the bitch pin hole. You should be able
to go front to back to front with 3 clicks. In the center of the
clicks try moving screwdriver l-r-l. If you can go both ways, try
going right (the handle) and backwards, that is 1st. Now go forwards
while holding pressure this is 2nd. Good?? Might get some resistance
as tranny is not moving/rotating. Now go back and let the screwdriver
self center this is third. Now push forward and you have 4th. Pull
back and move screwdriver to the left in center detent then pull
back, that will be 5th. Now push the screwdriver forward and allow it
to recenter. Move the screwdriver to the left and push forward, you
should here a loud click IF reverse lines up. 50% of the time it
won't. You have to think how you linkage works below the pivot point
on the shifter.
Try that and then tell us the results.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on September 10, 2001 at 04:49:50.
Bench Bleeding 101.........
Question:
Hi!
I've just bought a '90 Prelude(15/16) master cylinder for my Rex.I've
been told to use this one for the Big brakes upgrade available at
Fastbrakes.
I have some questions:
-In my Helms,they said to use a pushrod clearance adjustement,if
necesary.It's brand new from Honda.Do I have to that adjustement?
What if I don't have this tool?
-Do I have to bleed the master cylinder in a vise before or just bleeding
the normal way,by each wheels will do the trick?
I need real answer.
Not personal opinion,please.
Thanks in advance!
François
Answer:
DON'T DO IT ON A BENCH WITH A VISE!
Think how much you have to twist and turn the MC to get it inplace.
Instead mount the MC to the booster and then connect the "bench
bleeding" lines Have someone od the pumping from inside the car for
the bench bleeding exercise. Now all you have to do is install the 2
hard lines and bleed each wheel. If you do a true bench bleed, you
have to plug the MC outlets or like most of us, hold you fingers over
the outlest while trying to mount it to the firewall.
QWIK TIP.....
After "bench bleeding oncar" you might wanna loosen the MC mounting
nuts so the hard lines are easier to get started.
BTW some this is some old V8 tricks I learned 20+ years ago. I was
pumping the brakes for dad when I was about 11.
PUMP, HOLD, RELEASE, PUMP......you get the idea.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on September 19, 2001 at 02:45:34.
Alot of factors....+ Burnout 101
Question:
What kind of drag slicks do you guys recommend?
I've seen a lot of people run m/t 20x8x14
What about BF Goodrich drag radials?
Also, what is the lifespan of these things usually, in number of quarter
mile runs?
Answer:
I do suggest a 14x7 rim if possible. The reason most go with the MT
slicks is for gearing to help the car. I run 14 psi and got approx.
175-200 passes ouy of the first set. They wore out on the inner edges
because of the 1.7 degrees neg. camber I use.
Also, heat well.
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/burnout2nd.jpg]
Burnout 101
This picture shows the perfect burnout. I now use second gear, way
easier. Notice that the front tires are just out of the water box but
the rear hasn't went in yet? It helps to have a good track crew that
doesn't splash water all over the place.
Set ebrake HARD. Rev engine to about 3500 rpm and let the clutch out
sorta fast. Take the rpms up to about 6000-6500 rpms and when you get
smoke like in the picture (6-8 seconds) either release the ebrake and
the lift the throttle and roll out. Most likely the front tires will
grab and DRAG the locked rear tires. Then do one dry hop to make sure
the tires are hooking. Stage and launch when last yellow comes on.
I usually launch at 6500-7000 rpm, even with the NOS.
Hit me with your questions, I've made about 300 passes on these style
slicks.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on September 22, 2001 at 00:24:07.
The ultimate CRX cupholder solution inside
Finally figured out a way to mount a decent cupholder in this thing.
First, I dug out a black bicycle waterbottle holder out of my closet of
bike parts. Then took off the center console (6 screws I think: 2 sneaky
ones -- 1 inside the glovebox, 1 under the driver's dash) and drilled two
holes to match the water bottle mounts on the passenger side of the
console (check for a good position forward and down which allows you to
move the passenger seat back and forth and open the glovebox). Screwed it
on with a couple of screws, nuts and washers lying around, and voila -- a
g-force tested cupholder! Perfect size for those half-liter Coke bottles
and most "not so frickin' large" fast food cups.
The black plastic one I dug out matched my interior perfectly -- almost
looks OEM. Riceboys can go to thier local bike shop and find them in all
sorts of custom colors to match their rides.
Posted by: zbillster
on October 06, 2001 at 09:33:57.
leaks
Question:
Ok, finally made it to Madison WI (im a cheesehead now?) from Cali. My little red rice steamer made it in little over 2.5 days,
w/ two muts and a ball&chain (just joking) my wife. I was waiting for the car to give it up but it hummed the whole way =)
Now its raining quite a bit, and there is "THE LEAK"!!! I had forgotton all about it. Where does it come from, how do I stop it.
Its leaking into spare area, and from the moulding right above the rear passenger speaker. What to do???
And, what care tips can ya guys give me for the snow. I drove around the last day or two and see the rusting death
alot of cars are damend to. Some even on newer hondas (mid 90's). I hate to see my ride go to hell with weather conditions.
any help?
Thanks.
Answer:
Is this an Si? If so, water is coming in from:
1. a dried out gasket around the rear washer nozzle.
2. dried and cracked seam sealer around the hatch hinges.
3. clogged sunroof drain tubes is causing water to overflow the gasket around the sunroof pan.
If it's not an Si, then only #2 applies.
Other sources of water in trunk if not from overhead are:
1. worn out neoprene gaskets around the tail lenses.
2. dried out or cracked rubber gaskets around the 3 fasteners for the black triangles above rear turn signals.
3. leaking seal around sunroof (rear) drain tubes where they exit the rear fenders (Si only)
Posted by: Will Ng
on October 24, 2001 at 15:33:35.
What are 1G swap options?
Question:
Swaps for the 1Gen are a little trickier.
In any case, having the car be a Si to start with is a BIG PLUS
because you already have a car designed for fuel injection. The 84-
87 DX + others were carbureted.
If you do not have fuel injection already you need to:
1. Swap in the fuel injection system from a car that has it (pain)
2. Convert your new engine from fuel injection to carburetion (pain)
Ok so once we are past that point, what fits?
There are basically 3 classes of swaps.
1. Engines that bolt in.
-D15A? = stock 84-87 Si motor. Light, 1.5L, no power, no torque, no
point.
-D16A1 = Stock 86-87 Integra Engine. 1.6L 125HP, ? torque, not a bad
choice, particularly for forced induction due to relatively low
compression ratios and easy availability via junkyards. Needs axles
+ hubs from an integra too. Can use stock wiring + ecu, although not
recommended. IMHO easiest swap. See hybrid.honda-perf.org for help
with this one.
-D16A1 (2) = Stock 88-89 Integra Engine. 1.6L 130HP, ? torque, not a
bad choice either. I break this off from the above because it is
basically the same engine with marginally higher compression ratios
and DIFFERENT WIRING. Marginally more of a pain but still pretty
simple.
-BROWN VALVE COVER ZC- all the engine import shops can get their paws
on TWO ZCs. The black valve cover ZC is NOT THE ONE YOU WANT FOR
1Gen!!! USE BROWN VALVE COVER FOR 1GEN!!! The brown valve cover ZC
is basically a JDM equivalent of the USDM D16A1. Everything above
about D16A1s apply here. nippon-motors.com told me $495 for the
engine, no tranny or ECU. I got my tranny from a junked 'teg.
2. With an engine mount kit, serious amount of wiring, a new ECU you
can have:
-B16A1- 160HP, ?torque, Vtec, a nice choice period. JDM Civic SiR
engine. Fairly lightweight compared to stock engine. Easily
available from JDM engine importers, ~$500 for engine only, ~$900
engine/tranny/ecu, optional LSD tranny available for $250-500 extra.
With Hasport or Place Racing mounts, this thing will bolt up. It is
a much more involved swap then the D16/ZC, but you get a lot more
motor. Hasport can help with custom wiring harnesses if you aren't
feelin adventurous. Be prepared to spend more than the engine cost
you on mounts, axles, intermediate shafts, hub/knuckle assemblies,
and custom wiring harnesses. Even if you get junkyard parts, this is
still an expensive swap.
-B18B/B1-?HP, gobs of torque, non-vtec, decent amount of cash. Some
people report clearance problems necessitating a custom hood. Nice
engine for forced induction. Everything above about axles, etc
applies here. Wiring can be tricky.
-B17- ?HP, ?torque, cheap and rare B18C1 ish VTEC 1.7L engine. Nice
choice for people looking to get B18 torque w/o B18C prices. Wiring
easier compared to B18C1 + B18C5
-B18C1-170HP, 128ftlbs of torque. Integra GSR engine, 1.8L, Vtec,
Nice all round engine. Lacks the compression ratio and SERIOUS
performance internals of a B18C5, but normally can be had for several
thousand less. Think 2-3.5Grand for engine/tranny/ECU. Think hard
about wiring because this car needs a OBDI or OBII ECU, which is a
lot different from the wiring in a 1Gen.
-B18C5- ~200HP, gobs of torque. Integra Type R engine, 1.8L Vtec,
built to be driven. SERIOUS engine. SERIOUS price. Think $5000+
for JDM ITR engine/tranny/ECU. Serious wiring headache as above. If
you wanna be super cool, then this is the engine for you. BE
WARNED! I think hasport says the ITR tranny is incompatible with
their mount kit. Your mileage may vary, but if you are even
considering this swap you probably have enough money to burn you are
a sick lunatic.
-B20 / B20Vtec - ?HP, More torque than any other NA honda engine.
2.0L non-vtec. With a head swap, you have Vtec and a very powerful
engine. You can bolt B20s in to a 1G with the hasport mounts, and
the ehad swap is well documented elsewhere. expect to pay about
$1000 for a stock B20. Wiring probably will be somewhat of a
headache due to how new most of these engines are, but I haven't
really investigated this swap for the 1G (although I'm doing it for
my 2G rex)
3. You are insane and you can custom-fabricate mounts.
-H23 - one word. Why?
-H23/H22 head swap - two words: You're nuts!
-H22 - Well, if you don't feel like being able to steer the car due
to weight problems but you just have to have 2.2L of displacement and
torque, be my guest. I've seen pics of H22s stuffed into a 1G but
that really sounds scary to me. Good luck on the wiring too!
-Exotics. If you have money to burn, light it on fire. When you are
done, post pictures of how you stuffed a Chevy 502 into the engine
bay by welding a cage to the front end of your car.
Hope that helped a bit.
Here are some links that will help you much in your decisions:
-Engine specs thanks to hybird http://hybrid.honda-
perf.org/tech/engine.html
-1Gen Swaps with B series engines thanks to hasport
http://www.hasport.com/85-87si_B16_Swap_Outline.htm
-Nippon motors who consistently have brown valve cover ZC engines for
$495 http://www.nipponmotors.com
-Honda Motors online intermittently has brown valve cover ZC engines
and has REALLY good prices on B16s http://www.hondamotorsonline.com
Hope that helps.
peace
-Dave
Answer:
Swaps for the 1Gen are a little trickier.
In any case, having the car be a Si to start with is a BIG PLUS
because you already have a car designed for fuel injection. The 84-
87 DX + others were carbureted.
If you do not have fuel injection already you need to:
1. Swap in the fuel injection system from a car that has it (pain)
2. Convert your new engine from fuel injection to carburetion (pain)
Ok so once we are past that point, what fits?
There are basically 3 classes of swaps.
1. Engines that bolt in.
-D15A? = stock 84-87 Si motor. Light, 1.5L, no power, no torque, no
point.
-D16A1 = Stock 86-87 Integra Engine. 1.6L 125HP, ? torque, not a bad
choice, particularly for forced induction due to relatively low
compression ratios and easy availability via junkyards. Needs axles
+ hubs from an integra too. Can use stock wiring + ecu, although not
recommended. IMHO easiest swap. See hybrid.honda-perf.org for help
with this one.
-D16A1 (2) = Stock 88-89 Integra Engine. 1.6L 130HP, ? torque, not a
bad choice either. I break this off from the above because it is
basically the same engine with marginally higher compression ratios
and DIFFERENT WIRING. Marginally more of a pain but still pretty
simple.
-BROWN VALVE COVER ZC- all the engine import shops can get their paws
on TWO ZCs. The black valve cover ZC is NOT THE ONE YOU WANT FOR
1Gen!!! USE BROWN VALVE COVER FOR 1GEN!!! The brown valve cover ZC
is basically a JDM equivalent of the USDM D16A1. Everything above
about D16A1s apply here. nippon-motors.com told me $495 for the
engine, no tranny or ECU. I got my tranny from a junked 'teg.
2. With an engine mount kit, serious amount of wiring, a new ECU you
can have:
-B16A1- 160HP, ?torque, Vtec, a nice choice period. JDM Civic SiR
engine. Fairly lightweight compared to stock engine. Easily
available from JDM engine importers, ~$500 for engine only, ~$900
engine/tranny/ecu, optional LSD tranny available for $250-500 extra.
With Hasport or Place Racing mounts, this thing will bolt up. It is
a much more involved swap then the D16/ZC, but you get a lot more
motor. Hasport can help with custom wiring harnesses if you aren't
feelin adventurous. Be prepared to spend more than the engine cost
you on mounts, axles, intermediate shafts, hub/knuckle assemblies,
and custom wiring harnesses. Even if you get junkyard parts, this is
still an expensive swap.
-B18B/B1-?HP, gobs of torque, non-vtec, decent amount of cash. Some
people report clearance problems necessitating a custom hood. Nice
engine for forced induction. Everything above about axles, etc
applies here. Wiring can be tricky.
-B17- ?HP, ?torque, cheap and rare B18C1 ish VTEC 1.7L engine. Nice
choice for people looking to get B18 torque w/o B18C prices. Wiring
easier compared to B18C1 + B18C5
-B18C1-170HP, 128ftlbs of torque. Integra GSR engine, 1.8L, Vtec,
Nice all round engine. Lacks the compression ratio and SERIOUS
performance internals of a B18C5, but normally can be had for several
thousand less. Think 2-3.5Grand for engine/tranny/ECU. Think hard
about wiring because this car needs a OBDI or OBII ECU, which is a
lot different from the wiring in a 1Gen.
-B18C5- ~200HP, gobs of torque. Integra Type R engine, 1.8L Vtec,
built to be driven. SERIOUS engine. SERIOUS price. Think $5000+
for JDM ITR engine/tranny/ECU. Serious wiring headache as above. If
you wanna be super cool, then this is the engine for you. BE
WARNED! I think hasport says the ITR tranny is incompatible with
their mount kit. Your mileage may vary, but if you are even
considering this swap you probably have enough money to burn you are
a sick lunatic.
-B20 / B20Vtec - ?HP, More torque than any other NA honda engine.
2.0L non-vtec. With a head swap, you have Vtec and a very powerful
engine. You can bolt B20s in to a 1G with the hasport mounts, and
the ehad swap is well documented elsewhere. REMEMBER, THE STOCK
HEAD/INTAKE MANIFOLD WILL HAVE CLEARANCE PROBLEMS!!! expect to pay
about $1000 for a stock B20. Wiring probably will be somewhat of a
headache due to how new most of these engines are, but I haven't
really investigated this swap for the 1G (although I'm doing it for
my 2G rex)
3. You are insane and you can custom-fabricate mounts.
-H23 - one word. Why?
-H23/H22 head swap - two words: You're nuts!
-H22 - Well, if you don't feel like being able to steer the car due
to weight problems but you just have to have 2.2L of displacement and
torque, be my guest. I've seen pics of H22s stuffed into a 1G but
that really sounds scary to me. Good luck on the wiring too!
-Exotics. If you have money to burn, light it on fire. When you are
done, post pictures of how you stuffed a Chevy 502 into the engine
bay by welding a cage to the front end of your car.
Hope that helped a bit.
As for recommendations, I'd get a 86-87 Brown vavle cover for
simplicity or a tight budget for sure.
If you have a little more time, energy and patience, get some B-
series mounts. For forced induction, I'd definately get a B18A or
B20 (remember, you cannot run the stock B20 intake due to clearance
issues). For NA, I'd get a B16A1 with a LSD and do hella performance
upgrades before I got the B18C5 or even B18C3.
Here are some links that will help you much in your decisions:
-Engine specs thanks to hybrid
http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/engine.html
-1Gen Swaps with B series engines thanks to hasport
http://www.hasport.com/85-87si_B16_Swap_Outline.htm
-Nippon motors who consistently have brown valve cover ZC engines for
$495 http://www.nippon-motors.com
-Honda Motors online has brown valve cover ZC engines
and has REALLY good prices on B16s http://www.hondamotorsonline.com
Hope that helps.
peace
-Dave
Posted by: David Blundell
on November 17, 2001 at 18:57:06.
Exploded the diff............
Question:
Here is my problem. I am driving down the street today, and I am in first
gear. I am kinda getting on it when I hear this loud thud sound and feel
the car kinda lurch forward a bit. I try to take the car out of gear and
it won't move. However, the car is only coasting. It seems as if the
clutch is not engaging. I pull over to the side of the road to see if
maybe my clutch cable broke or something. I have a friend push the clutch
in and out and it looks like the cable is moving. Everytime he lets the
clutch out it makes a strange noise from inside the tranny.
I look down at the axle on the passanger side and it seems to be moving a
little bit on its own. I have him try to take the car out of gear and it
still won't budge. It does apear that the shift linkage does move a litte
though.
I get under the car and see a big puddle of tranny fluid on the ground.
It appears to be comming out of where the clutch is. I have an ACT
extreme pressure plate with a 6 puck disk. I know a lot of people have
had a lot of problems with them, but the oil throughs me off.
What do you guys think? Is it going to be the clutch, tranny, or both. I
urgently need to know so I can try to get the parts this weekend (yeah, I
know, good luck right).
Thanks,
Damion
Answer:
I've got 4 trannys laying here because of it. Two were from me
racing, the other two are CRX trannys from other folk.
When this......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/good%20pin.jpg]
get worn out and looks like this.....
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/bad%20pin.jpg]
tranny go BOOM!
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/tranny%20boom.jpg]
Here is why.......
On 88-91 trannys the pinion cross shaft is NOT hardened. Therefore it
wears thourgh till it breaks. The 92+ cross shafts are hardened,
notice the black color.
The two CRX trannys that exploded, the cross shaft wore through and
allowed the gears inside the diff to get loose. There is NO room for
them and the get in a tight spot where they don't fit, exploding the
trannys case.
The two 5g trannys I exploded, the side gears failed. Teeth sheared
off and even split one of the gears. But the pin still held fast. The
good pin is from my second exploded tranny.
Hope this is all clear. If not, just ask away.
BTW I'm AutoFAGing this.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on November 23, 2001 at 03:24:12.
BCPR7E-11
Question:
Hello guys,
Sorry in advance, I know this question has been answered before, but I'm
not able to find any info regarding it: :-/ I'm looking to purchase a
set of NGK sparkplugs one heat range colder than stock. The stock part
number is: BCPR6E-11. Am I correct in my assumption that BCPR7E-11 is the
next colder step? Or is it the 11 that should have one added to it? I'm
asking because after going to 4 different parts store none of the guys
behind the counter knew anything of their plugs other than the price.
Thanks guys,
Ryan P.
Answer:
is one step colder. The -11 at then end means 1.1 mm gap.
Entire breakdown of the plug code......
B = 14 mm thread diameter
C = 5/8" hex
P = projected insulator type
R = resistor type
6 or 7 = heat range, 2 being hottest, 11 being coldest
E = 19 mm thread reach
11 = plug gap of 1.1 mm
I just happen to have a NGK 1999 Master Catalog laying around.
BTW this is now AutoFAQed
Posted by: Mista Bone
on December 02, 2001 at 10:13:30.
Just AutoFAQing.......n/m
Question:
Si tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-3000.jpg]
STD tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-A100.jpg]
88 no markings (Si)
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-XXXX.jpg]
The DX has a PL3-A000 casting I believe. Kinda hard to get a pic as it is
installed in car.
Answer:
hehe
haha
hoho
Posted by: Mista Bone
on December 06, 2001 at 23:14:06.
Re: CRX tranny ID pics.............I need help
Question:
Si tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-3000.jpg]
STD tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-A100.jpg]
88 no markings (Si)
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-XXXX.jpg]
The DX has a PL3-A000 casting I believe. Kinda hard to get a pic as it is
installed in car.
Answer:
im have a lot of probs with my 91 Si going through 2 clutch in 10,000
miles and evertime i change the release spring is broke. Both Honda
many shops said they have never seen a spring break before and it was
brought to my attention to make sure it was an Si trans. The number
on mine is a PL3/9000. So is this even an Si trans or what. I need
help ASAP, so if you know i would appreciate it. thanks
Posted by: timmaayy
on December 09, 2001 at 11:17:39.
how much for the spring
Question:
I have a set of shift forks missing the 1-2 fork that I could see cheap. It has all the other forks, sliders, balls, and springs installed.
Interested?
Randy
Answer:
how much for the spring and where are you, email me back asap
Posted by: timmaayy
on December 09, 2001 at 11:27:51.
Re: CRX wont start, alt. still good, so is batt.????
Question:
Car seems fine after jump even for a day or two. But when I let it sit, it seems the battery is somewhat dead
or just not enough oomff to start up. So confused. Just had honda replace alt. a few months back, and battery checked
today, and it was fine too. Is there somthing else?? Also cleaned posts too. Need a CRX Guru to shed some light.
Thanks,
Damien.
Answer:
I work for interstate battery and if youve put in cheap battery and
it works fine until you let it sit the batt might just have a
surface charge. Thats what Advance or Auto Zone basiclly do when they
say they can charge it in an hour. A surface charge is a charge in
the battery that will not hold which can occur after jumpin off and
just letting it run. Regardless of what people say thats not enough
unless the battery wasnt severly drained. Id say go somewhere and
have the battery properly load tested. If a cell bubbles with a
heavy load its bad. email me if you got any questions
Posted by: timmaayy
on December 09, 2001 at 11:34:52.
Not without a lot of hassle (can be done).
Question:
I have access to all of the components, just wanting to know if they will
work.
Answer:
I installed '88 belts on a '91 Si. There are several problems which make the job difficult. 1) Honda removed the weldnuts from the
B-pillars. These tapped holes are what the D-rings that the belts slides over mount into. The hole for the weldnut is still in the
sheetmetal, as is the pocket down lower that the single retractor reel bolts into. To use the '88 belts, you have to fabricate a tapped
block and maneuver it up inside the hollow B-pillar and into position. Definitely a PITA, but can be done (I did). Also, you will have to
snap off the filler cap that covers the slot at the top of both interior panels so the seatbelt web can pass inside, and make a hole in
each upper panel to pass the D-ring mounting stud. 2) Honda removed the two driver's-side bodypan mounts (again, weldnuts) that
are used to anchor the seatbelt and buckle to the floor. The two passenger's-side mounts ARE still there- they are used for mounting
an infant seat on that side. Unlike the '89-up seats and rails, the '88 buckle attaches to the floor pan, not the seat (and the newer
buckle will not engage with the older seatbelt blade). You will have to drill holes in the bodypan to pass the mounting hardware bolts
through so they may be fastened on the other side. You could use a self-locking nut and a fender washer (to prevent pull-through by
increasing contact area), or do what I did- fabricate a threaded block, locating it under the drilled hole. I also suggest covering the
block or nut with undercoating after installation to prevent corrosion (it will be exposed to the air slipstream and any water under the
car). 3) The '88 inner door panels are not 100% interchangeable with the '89-'91. The upper edge is longer (smaller end pillar on the
'88 design), and about 25% of the attachment prongs will not line-up with the newer door configuration. You CAN make the panel
work, but it's a little ghetto. You will also have to remove the hat-shaped latch from the doorsill plate to use the '88 panels. Note that
when you remove the two retractor reels from each door, one set of wires on the driver's-side will have to be jumped to keep the
seatbelt warning from going-off (don't remember which). I do suggest that you open-up the pod above the rearview mirror and unplug
the module inside. This will kill the two "seatbelt unfastened" warning lights.
Posted by: crxsquared
on December 14, 2001 at 08:53:10.
Well, I'm no Corky Bell, but
Question:
Ok, after reading many of the other posts (mainly in response to Chris
Storie's posts below) I have a bunch of questions:
1. Is bigger always better? obviously there is going to be a point of
diminishing returns. Is there a way to calculate where it will be?
2. Does anyone know the pressure drop of some (RELATIVELY) common
intercoolers? Like maybe: Starion, saab 9000, volvo 240/740, Audi 5000,
Dodge daytona shelby, Grand National, MkIII Supra, MKIV Supra, 90-95MR2,
96-00 JDM MR2...
3. What about efficiency of air cooling? Intercoolers seem to come in all
shapes and sizes. Some, like the MkIV Supra seem to be kinda block
shaped. Some, like the Saab 9000 offer a huge surface area but are still
pretty skinny. How does geometry affect efficiency? Do things like
internal diameter matter more?
4. Aside from cooling the air and helping to prevent detonation, what
other effects do intercoolers have? Does the extra piping length increase
lag? Is this worth worrying about? Do intercoolers themselves increase
lag? What other negative effects do intercoolers have on a turbo system?
5. How does the choice of piping affect performance? What options are
avail? What is cheapest? What performs best? Pro/con/why?
Is there a web page that talks about all this shit? Or a book?
If you feel you can write a beautiful work of art on this subject, please
feel free to autofaq.
TIA
Answer:
I did read his book. Here's what I remember off the top of my head:
1.) NO, bigger is not always better. And just having an intercooler
is not always better than not having one. There are calculations
(see Maximum Boost) to determine the right size for your
application. If you threw in an intercooler that can support 1000
cfm, and you only run about 250 cfm, you'll have some major lag. And
the extra cooling from that monster intercooler will yield little
benefit, especially since there is a lower limit to how cool your
intake charge can get. Theoritically, it's the same as the ambient
temperature. In practice, it's never that low.
2.) Not off the top of my head. And it's really a function of boost
pressure and the entire system design. There's really no good
calculation for this, measurement before and after is the best
technique.
3.) Efficiency is a function primarily of the surface area of the
heat exchanger. The more surface area exposed to the oncoming air,
the more heat will be exchanged. This is of course assuming that the
oncoming air has a clear path or is ducted to and from the
intercooler and that no major heat sources are present too close to
the intercooler. Internal sizes (thickness, height, and number of
the air flow chambers) relate primarily to the flow capibilities.
4.) Yes, the intercooler's primary job is to remove the added heat
from the intake charge caused by the turbo. This makes the engine
run cooler and the intake charge to be more dense, promoting a safer
and more powerful engine/turbo system. The cost of the intercooler
is the potential pressure drop and lag. Lag is due to the extra
volume that has to be filled before the intake manifold sees the
boost pressure. Depending on how your charge piping is run, the
intercooler may only be a minor part of that extra volume. So
designing the system so that the charge piping is shorter would have
greater impact than changing the size of the intercooler. Typically,
the added benefits of an intercooler out weigh the additional lag.
5.) For best performance, you want mandrel bent piping, sized
appropriately for the amount of airflow you need to support, with as
smooth as possible transitions between solid and flexible piping. If
the piping is too oversized, you will unnecessarily be adding more
volume to the system (contributing to lag). If it's undersized, you
will have more flow losses in the piping. Cheapest would probably be
crush bent steel piping. However, I would definetely recommend at
least getting mandrel bent sections, it's not much more expensive.
Best performance would probably be custom mandrel bent sections
designed to have the minimum amount of connections and transitions
(ideally, a solid piece between the turbo and intercooler, and then a
solid piece from intercooler to TB, but that may not be possible
given installation issues).
Hope that helps. I'll AutoFAQ this, although I'm not quite sure it's
AutoFAQ worthy.
On a side note, where would I go to find all the AutoFAQed posts? I
don't see them in the FAQ.
Gary
Posted by: GJC
on December 18, 2001 at 13:50:39.
Some physics ... (long but mostly correct answer)
Question:
In the summer here in UK we get inlet temps to intercooler of up to
90-110 degrees ond outlet temps of 50-60 with air/air
One of our guys has an air/water giving just 28 degress at the
throttle body
Mark
Answer:
Its all noble gas law stuff. Think physics/chemistry. Just remember
that these calculations will give you the IDEAL gas temperature. The
efficiency rating of a compressor at a given pressure/speed is
basically an idea of how much EXTRA heat the compressor will add.
I.E. 100% efficiency = warms air no more than ideal conditions.
----IDEAL CALCS----
PV = NRT
P = pressure (atmospheric = about 14 psi)
V = volume
N = number of moles of gas
R = noble gas constant (just a number - does not change)
T = temperature in KELVIN (celsius +273)
With a little massaging we get:
P/T = NR/V
N, R and V are staying relatively constant so we can come up with:
P1/T1 = P2/T2
olpressure divided by old temperature = new pressure / new temperature
For a quick + dirty correction for turbo efficiency, multiply the
final temperature you get by 1+(100-efficiency/100). Get the
efficiency from a compressor map or guess at 60% to be safe.
In case your algebra sucks, here is an example.
We are at sea level, atmospheric pressure 14.7psi. Ambient
temperature is 25 Centigrade. (DO NOT WORK IN FARENHEIT FOR THESE
CALCS) We are running 8psi of boost. What is the charge air
temperature assuming a turbocharger efficiency of 68% and all air for
the compressor is being drawn from outside the engine compartment at
25degrees? (to compensate for a CAI on the compressor instead of
outsude air, substitute temperature of air pre-compressor for T1)
Atmospheric = 14.7psi
Boost = +8psi
Total pressure under boost = 22.7psi
25degrees C = 273 +25 Kelvin = 298 Kelvin
14.7 / 298 Kelvin = 22.7psi / T2
(multiply both sides by T2, multiply both sides by 298K, divide by
14.7 psi)
T2 = 298K * 22.7 / 14.7
T2 = 460K
460K is our IDEAL charge air temperature
460K * 1+(100-68/100)
460K * 1+(32/100)
460K * 1.32
607K is our charge air temperature SOMEWHAT corrected for compressor
efficiency.
607K-273K = 334 Celsius *9/5+32 = 633Farenheit
Wow. See why you need an intercooler?
Hope that helps. Consult Maximum Boost by Corky Bell or a
physics/chemistry textbook if you need a slower explanation.
Posted by: David Blundell
on January 12, 2002 at 08:40:09.
dont mind me...
Question:
By the time I see a post worth a good reply it's inches from the bottom
of the board. I just don't see the point in ranting if nobody gets to read
it...
There are a few reasons to use nitrous with a turbo:
1) elimination of turbo lag - boost in a bottle doesn't take very long to
hit.
2) Intercooler assistance - the turbo's intake charge isn't heated by the
heat transfer from the exhaust side (as so many supercharger fans seem to
think), it's the heat of compression. Nitrous works the other way around,
it goes from very high pressure to relativly low pressure and comes out
very cold.
3) Power - the limiting factor in power production (asside from the
mechanical strenght of the motor's own components) is the amount of air
fuel mixture burned. Nitrous has three times the O2 that air has, pushing
three atmospheres of boost is unrealistic, but one atmosphere with some
nitrous added sounds realistic to me.
There are also reasons to use a turbo with nitrous:
1) I've searched long and hard for the endless nitrous tank, I've come to
the conclusion it doesn't exist. Nitrous is great for spooling the turbo or
adding more O2 than the turbo alone can supply, but it's not a steady
statee solution. Nitrous alone is good for a very limited time, nitrous +
turbo is fun for the whole day.
2) At some point you're going to show up at an event and they tell you to
pull the blue bottle - then what? You're stuck in D mod with a car that has
all the power of show stock, and the guy with the 930 is pointing and
laughing.
3) Does the term "street legal" mean anything to you?
OK, now to get around to explaining the design of a good system. There
are a number of types of set-ups for different types of driving. I tend to
ignore the drag racing designs, but there is something to learn about top
end which can be applied to a streetable system.
The first component to look at is the turbo - the primary source of
forced induction, also by far the more complex of the two installations
(even on my car). There are two parameters to turbo lag, what goes on from
the exhaust side, and what's between the compressor and the throttle body.
The volume between the compressor and throttle body needs to be minimized
if you're to have any hope of getting good throttle response and minimal
turbo lag - this should be easy to understand. What happens at the hot
side of the turbo is more tunable, but less understood by most. Let's
oversimplify it and say that the ignition timing is fixed. If it's always
advanced there will be decent power without boost, but the turbo will spool
slowly. If the timing is retarded (pushed back that is...) the turbo will
spool faster, but there will be very little power before the boost levels
pick up. This is due to the point at which the thermal expansion starts and
finishes. If the spark is advanced the thermal expansion will start
somewhere near TDC, and by the time the exhaust valve opens it will have
finished. If the spark hits late the thermal expansion starts mid stroke
and there is still expansion going on when the exhaust valves open, which
causes greater pressure in the exhust and causes the turbo to spool. It's a
trade-off, power in the power stroke or power past the power stroke where
it can be used to spool the turbo. Most well thought out turbos try to
find some middle ground between the two. Using a boost activated timing
module to retard timing, most systems offer decent pedal response with a
progressive rise to the boost pressure - not bad, but it could be better.
One step better would be to add a vacuum advance, this way small changes in
throttle angle below where boost would kick in have quicker response. The
best of all worlds would be if somehow the timing could remain advanced but
the thermal expansion could last longer than the full stroke, but that only
happens if you can get much more fuel mixture in, which requires boost -
boost gets more boost, but where do you get instant boost?
The blue bottle is instant chemical boost on demand. It can be used a
number of ways for intercooling, spooling the turbo or just addiing top end
power. For spooling you need to introduce the nitrous as a gas, which means
it needs volume to expand and boil. There are elaborate individual port
nitrous manifolds to do this (three that I know of), but it would be almost
as quick to inject the nitrous upstream where it could boil to a gas before
entering the intake manifold. This has a couple of positive features.
First, it's as simple as it gets - under open throttle when there is turbo
lag most fueling systems overcompensate and the A/F ratio spikes (which
goes along with some nice plug fouling). The addition of a little nitrous
(single fogger, like that of an NOS Sneaky Pete system) can fill the void
between the good throttle response down low and the time that the boost
builds. That same small flow of nitrous is good for a double digit
temperature drop at the intake which translates to real torque in the
midrange. If you're looking for top end power you stop looking at feeding
the nitrous upstream and look at an individual injector system at the
manifold, but there are concerns about running both boost and nitrous
together. First, there is the concern that fuel doesn't remain suspended,
and that the break down of nitrous oxide into nitrogen and oxegen will
leave the cylinders with nothing to burn but the tops of the pistons. There
is a limit to how much fuel mixture you can cram into a piston, beyond that
the only power to be gained is in exact control of conditions. At the very
top end ignition timing control is the key - as advanced as possible
without detonation is the goal. Using just lots of boost doesn't work
because of the heat build-up causing preignition during the compression
stroke. Using pure nitrous works well for two reasons, first there's no
heat build-up, second the bonded nitrogen acts as a buffer during most of
the compression stroke (nitrous oxide seperates out at high
pressure/temperature, before that the oxegen isn't avalale to burn - idiots
who use pure oxegen just wind up blowing up). There are two down sides to
pure nitrous use for top end. First, it doesn't last very long, second it's
not cheap. The trick is in fueling for outragous abounts of boost, but
replacing some of that boost with nitrous injection at the intake runners.
This means building a pressure limiter (much like a bypass regulator) on
the intake and bringing the power up beyond that point using the nitrous.
Using a multi-stage nitrous system plus the jet upstream it's possible to
make an alomst seemless throttle response from idle to more than twice the
stock output of the motor, without needing to stop at the local speed shop
for a refill every day.
My own system uses a single boost limiter at the inlet side of the
air-water intercooler. It's an electronicly controlled rising rate unit
which is set from 8 PSI starting to an adjustable point cut-off with an
electronic lock-out. My nitrous system has two direct port stages with an
expansion chamber for stage 1 (not exactly what you see under the hood of
most cars) The expansion chamber allows me to run direct port nitrous
injection at a much lower RPM without fear of pooling in the cylinders - I
HATE turbo lag. Under heavy throttle the boost will build to the cut-off
point (adjustable from the center console with an allen key), then the
boost limiter's electronic lock-out will open and the first stage nitrous
kicks in. The drop in boost pressure and the NOS jetting have been
calculated to be about the same, so I don't notice the change in power.
From there the rising rate bypass restricts the release of boost pressure
'till it reaches the cut-off point again (pretty damn quickly I might add).
The electronic lock-out then trips again while the second nitrous stage
fires, and the cycle repeats at a higher level. If I were drag racing the
car I would consider running stage 1, then stage 2, then stage 1+2, but
without a gearing change that would be pointless. The big advantage to
this system is the seamless flow of power. Do you remember all those scenes
in the Fat and the Curious where they hit the NOS button and got instantly
pulled back into their seats (the ones with too much padding and no
harnesses)? Try that in a turn some time - hello Mr. wall... The goal of
my design was simple, a small
Answer:
im just auto faqing this post
Posted by: gino fultano
on February 01, 2002 at 12:47:30.
why hasnt anyone autofaqued this yet?
Answer:
blah
Posted by: tyson
on February 01, 2002 at 16:37:44.
Re: LSD's
Question:
Phantom Grip = Junk.
OPM - Supposedly a better execution of the Phantom Grip principal.
Still not a "real" LSD.
Kazz - Clutch type. I've driven one. They are good quality.
Quaife - Torsen type. I own one. It rocks.
If you want quality, then your only real decision is clutch type or
torsen. Once you decide that, get the Kazz or Quaife accordingly.
The Kazz used to be cheaper, but now they are close to the same
price, except for some "clearance" applications where the Quaife is
cheaper. For my car the Quaife was $695 and the Kazz was $950. That
wasn't why I got the Quaife though. For autocrossing, I think the
Quaife is better. Additionally, my bud Brett Howell (FSP National
Champion) has the Kazz, and said he would have gotten the quaife if
he could have afforded it. It was $1195 when he bought. The Kazz is
obviously suiting him just fine though.
You can debate for months on which to get (trust me, I did), but
either will be so much better than OEM, that you can't really go
wrong.
Answer:
Thought maybe this should be FAQ'd
Posted by: Dave Hardy
on February 10, 2002 at 22:15:31.
How long has it been since you've bled the
brakes and adjusted the rear drums? I would bleed the brakes then
adjust the rears. (The instructions on how to bleed are basically
covered in the AutoFAQ by Mista Bone.) To see if you need to adjust
the rears, loosen the lugnuts, jack the rear of the car up off the
ground (Properly chalking up the front tires with something), and
then take the rims off. Try to move the drums by hand. There should
be a LITTLE drag with the e-brake disengaged. (That's important!) If
they spin freely, you need to adjust them. If you can hear them
scraping inconsistently, you might want to have your drums turned and
put on new shoes. Then you can adjust everything properly.
If you don't have any inconsistent grabing, but the drums are too
easy to turn by hand You need to adjust them drums. Loosen up the e-
brake cables. (Remove the plastic cover on the back e-brake handle,
and uses a 12mm wrench to loose the line. Loosen it up as far as you
can go.) Find an empty parking lot, or use a side street that is NOT
busy. Put the car in reverse, and floor it. SLAM on the brakes. Do
this a couple times. This is supposed to move the self adjusters on
the rear. If that doesn't help (you should be able to tell if the
brakes feel better), you need to take the drums off and take out the
self adjusters and make sure they aren't frozen. This has happened to
almost every honda I've worked on. Refer to your shop manual on how
to get everything apart. One trick to getting the drums off is to use
a bolt that is the same size and thread as the thing that holds down
the spare. There are two holes in the drums. If you get two bolts,
thread them into the holes, and that will get the drums off. If you
have to, you can use a large flatblade screw driver to pray the drums
off. Take everything out and clean it. Inspect the shoes for uneven
wear and the drums for obvious pits, lines, bumbs, etc. Teh self
adjusters are made of two clevis', one that fits inside the other. If
the sides don't spin freely, get a vice grip and lock it onto on
side, and get another or a pair of pliers and spin them free. Clean
them up and put some anti seize compound on them. This will prevent
them from seizing again. Reassemble everything after replacing any
bits and pieces that need to replaced. Once you get the hand of it,
you can change everything in the drum assembly in less than an hour
for both sides. (At least I can. I've had mine apart too often! heh
=Þ)
If after bleeding and checking the rears the brakes still are not
satisfactory, you might have a caliper that is siezing, or possibly a
rubber line has collapsed internally. Rebuilt calipers aren't too
expensive. I've found a place that you can get Goodridge Stainless
Steel lines for 99.95 shipped. (For an 89 Si, at least)
http://morepowerracing.com
That's a darn good price. $10 less than
anywhere else I've found. I haven't bought a set yet, but I will as
soon as I can afford it.
As for the Master Cylinder, you can test to see if it's going bad by
letting teh car idle and pumping the brakes to build up pressure.
Then, STAND on them. Put all your weight onto them and if the pedal
sinks to the floor, then you need to replace the MC. Bench bleed
accoring to Mista Bone in the autoFAQ, attach the lines. Bleed again,
and you should be all set.
I hope this helps. Remember to have fun working on your car!
Re: how to find TDC on Si?
Question:
replacing distributer...
Answer:
there is a white marking on the crankshaft pulley, slightly spaced
after three red ones, line that up visually with the small pointed
tab and V on the belt cover, by rotating the crankshaft pulley
(either use a wrench on the pulley bolt or rolling the car in gear).
then check to see if the camshaft pulley is in line by seeing if the
lower line is aligned with the pointer on the plastic. you need only
remove the top timing belt cover to do all this(but you gotta loosen
the valve cover to get it off, which is why i leave the top timing
belt cover off all the time)
tyson
[Image http://24.95.142.82:6080/manual/2gsm/images/91-6-26.jpg]
Posted by: tyson
on February 21, 2002 at 14:56:03.
I'll autofaq this
Question:
As obviously most of us like to accomplish things by ourselves and save
money, here is one way to save a lot of money. Depending on the shape of
your cars body, this can usually be done in a weekend.
Step 1: Car Preparation
To have the final job look good, this is an important part. The body
doesn't need to be sanded down to metal, but this can be done. What I
have done on all my paint jobs is sand the whole car down with 240 grit to
get down into the paint past the clear. Then work way to 600 grit. You
don't want to get the surface too smooth so the paint has something to
stick too. This is the point where if there is any body rust or dents to
fix them. Usually light rust spots can be removed with disk sander untill
you reach shinny metal. If this goes very deep, most likely you will need
to use some body filler to bring the surface back to smooth, but I don't
want to jump into body work, as this could take up a whole write up
itself. Once the entire body is sanded and flat, you are ready for paint
to tape off. There will be a lot of paint dust over the car, so I suggest
taching before you tape and also tach again right before you paint.
Step 2: Taping off
This is pretty simple. There are a few routes to take. You can get rolls
of taping paper to cover the car, or the less expensive newspaper
technique. Just make sure if you use newspaper that ALL seams are taped
with now opens that paint being sprayed can enter. Remember that the
paint is traveling with some pressure and if there are any opening, it
will find a way in there. You can use special taping off masking tape
that is wider and provides stick without leaving any sticky residue. On
the crx you can take off a lot of the moldings so you get behind them and
don't see and color differences along seems. The rear window moldings can
be removed and the rain gutter molding can also be taken out. Remember to
cover wheels and headlights and the such. Things like the hood can be
removed and painted separately if desired. Although it is illegal to
paint outside of a controlled environment, people still do it. But to
keep things clean, make sure the garage or area you are doing it in is as
dust free as possible and you can put up tarps to keep air flow to a
minimum around the car.
Step 3: Getting the Paint
Most larger cities will have some sort of wholesale automotive specialty
paint supplier. The one where I live has a great selection, and uses
DuPont products. Luckily since the CRX is such a small car and lots of
window area, it doesn't take a whole lot of paint to cover the car. You
will need three things.
1. Primer, which comes in two types: sandable and nonsandable. The
sandable sprays a little thicker which is good for a body that may have
some inperfections which it will fill better and once you primer you can
sand down. The nonsandable prays thinner which is good for a body that is
already in good shape and will not require sanding after the primer. The
primer comes in two parts, the actual primer and its activator. They come
together in a package which I think comes in a quart. This will cost
somewhere between $40-$50. Also primer comes in different color levels
(grays to blacks). The employees there will match you with a primer that
will work well with your base.
2. Base Coat. The base is what the color of the car will come out as.
The store will have a huge book of every paint code from any vehicle with
little cards that display the color. I think it is easier to pick from
one of these rather than to do a custom color, but if you want a custom
color, you can bring in a sample of the color from paper or anything and
they can match it. The prices of base very on the make up of the color.
Some paints include metallics and pearls, which will cost a little more.
As for the amount of base to purchase, I think that 1 1/2 quarts should
work well. 1 1/2 quarts actually makes 3 quarts since you mix the base
with base activator in a 1:1 ratio. The base and base activator will cost
anywhere from $70-$150 depending on amount and type of color.
3. Clear Coat. There is basically only one option for clear that you
have. The clear also uses an activator. But with the clear, it will
needed to be mixed in a 4:1 ratio, being 4 parts clear to 1 part
activator. When mixing clear make sure you just mix enough for the can
you are praying with. Because the clear activates a lot faster than
either of the other 2. You will be able to use the clear once activated
for about 45 min. You will probably only need 2 quarts or less of clear,
but I bought a gallon size since it costs less per quart if you get the
full size, plus I paint a lot and use it up. I think the gallon of clear
and activator cost around $70 or less.
Step 4: Painting
Now that the car is taped off and ready to paint, you will need some tools
to do the painting. You will need a paint gun. Paint guns range from $50-
$500+. But you will be fine with the $60 gun from menards or the auto
stores or even the paint store will have them. They have gravity feed
guns and tank resevor guns. Either will work fine. You will also need an
air compressor and hose. A larger compressor tank will be better since
you probably will start to lose pressure with a smaller tank due to
constant spraying. Pressure should be regulated to 35-40psi You can use
fancy regulators and line regulaters, but I didn't. Also make sure you
don't have condensation problems in the lines, it can cause some running.
Also have a can of paint thinner on hand to clean parts between primer,
base, and clear coats. Make sure you have a mask too, this paint is not
very friendly to the lungs and eyes. Now its time to paint. The best
conditions to paint are when air temperatures are around 65-75 F. And try
to pick a day with low humidity. As high humidity can cause orange peal
(looks like surface of basketball) So don't pick a day where it is
raining outside. Painting process should go as follows:
- Primer car with 2-3 thin coats waiting 15 min inbetween coats
Mix Primer in 1:1 ratio with activator
If you plan on sanding primer, wait a few hours before sanding
- Base Coat will be next with 3-4 coats, so that the car looks even in
color. Also waiting 15 min inbetween coats. Wait 20 min before clear.
- Clear Coat should be again around 2-4 coats, the more you put on, the
more you can polish off after you are done. Usually 3 is the best
number. Wait again 15 inbetween coats. Once completed wait 24 hours
before doing anything with the surface.
When painting with the gun, keep the gun always spraying directly
perpendicular to the surface. Keep the gun about 12 inches from the
surface and move with a smooth motion across the whole panels surface.
Start from one end and go all the way to the other end. Don't start in
the middle and DON'T spray the gun in one spot for a period of time. This
will cause runs with are BAD. Most likely if you get a bad run you will
have to wait for car to completely dry and sand it down and then
continue. So completely paint the whole car with a coat and wait 15 min
till you start again. It will be nice to have friends help to prepare
paint when the gun starts to run out. Remember not to mix too much at one
time because the activator will start to run out. Both the primer and
base coat activator times are around 2 hours and clear is about 45 min.
The primer coat is very easy to do and will help you become comfortable
with the gun without being able to mess up really. When doing the base
coat, make sure that you cover the car uniformly, so the whole thing looks
the same tone. Have good lighting so you can see details. Remember when
mixing clear that it changes to a 4:1 ratio.
Step 5: Polishing
Now that the car is dry after around 12-24 hours of drying you are ready
to polish. This can be hard to master, but you can always take a car to a
profeshional to get polished. They sell special velcro polishing pads at
the paint store to use with 5 or 7 rotary sanders and compound to polish
the car. If you do deside on doing it yourself, remember to always keep
the pad wet with compount, don't want dry pad on surface. Don't put too
much pressure on the pad. Work in sections and just keep moving across
the panel. I am not very good at this, but had a friend help me on this,
so I don't have a whole lot of details on what to do.
Goodluck with the process, it may seem kinda scary at first, but once you
get going its pretty fun. Have a good time with it and stay safe, use
masks. If you have any more question on things that I probably missed,
please post or write me an email. Hear is the page of my crx through the
past 2 years of sitting in the garage and the process.
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~ajross/crx.htm
Answer:
blah
Posted by: Tyson
on February 23, 2002 at 04:19:31.
Re: You are God n/m
Question:
It all depends on what mods you have done to the engine, what kind of driving you do and
what your goals are for the car. Since you didn't mention any of that the following
should help you figure it out.
The engine is like an air pump; the more air that is
allowed to flow through it, the more horsepower that you get out of it. In other words,
if you have a free-flowing air intake and exhaust system in your average vehicle,
you’ll get more horsepower because of the efficient flow of air into and out of the
engine. Fuel requires air to burn and thus to produce energy. The more air that is
available for combustion will also improve efficiency otherwise known as gas
mileage.
Relation Between Performance and Air Flow
Components that
influence airflow into the engine are the:
air filter
intake air piping
mass
air sensor (if applicable)
throttle body or carburetor
intake
manifold
camshaft
intake port and valve of cylinder heads
turbo's
compression, section, and supercharger (if applicable)
Components that
influence airflow out of the engine are the:
exhaust valve and exhaust ports of
the cylinder heads
camshafts
exhaust manifolds
turbo's turbine (if
applicable)
exhaust tubing
catalytic converters
muffler
When these
components are modified to increase flow out of the engine, pumping losses are
reduced. Pumping losses refer to the amount of horsepower (HP) used to push the
exhaust gases out of the cylinders on the engine's exhaust stroke. Since less HP is
used to get the exhaust out of the engine, more horsepower is available at the
flywheel. An added benefit of reducing pumping losses is that fuel mileage will also
increase.
No matter how much additional air is forced into the engine, no
additional HP will be made unless additional fuel is also added. The energy that makes
HP in an engine comes from the combustion of the fuel, not only the air. In general,
every two HP produced requires one pound of fuel per hour. When modifications are
performed that increase airflow into the engine, more air is available for the
combustion of fuel. The combustion of the additional fuel is what translates into
additional HP.
Air flow is not just influenced by the size (area) of the paths it
takes into and out of the engine. It is also influenced by the speed at which it
moves.
Specific Port Flow (cubic meter/sec) = Flow Velocity (m/s) x Average Path
Area (m2)
Whenever an engine modification increases the average area of the
airflow paths into and out of an engine, there is a chance the velocity of the flow will
decrease. Most of the time the factor of velocity decrease is very small compared to
the area increased, so flow is generally increased. If modifications are taken too
far, the velocity will decrease more than the area increases, so flow is adversely
affected (example - four inch exhaust system on a 1.6 liter engine).
In the
following section, we will analyze the components of an exhaust system in a car and how
air flows from the engine to the outside environment.
Analysis of the
Exhaust System in an Average Car
The above is a diagram of the major
components of an exhaust system in a car. Exhaust system components are designed for a
specific engine. The pipe diameter, component length, catalytic converter size,
muffler size, and exhaust manifold design are engineered to provide proper exhaust
flow, silencing, and emission levels on a particular engine. In this section, I will
go over the function and specifics of each component.
The Exhaust
Manifold
The exhaust manifold is a pipe that conducts the exhaust gases from
the combustion chambers to the exhaust pipe. Many exhaust manifolds are made from
cast iron or nodular iron. Some are made from stainless steel or heavy-gauge steel. The
exhaust manifold contains an exhaust port for each exhaust port in the cylinder head,
and a flat machined surface on this manifold fits against a matching surface on the
exhaust port area in the cylinder head.
Some exhaust manifolds have a gasket
between the manifold and the cylinder head, as can be seen in the diagram
below:
Exhaust manifold and gasket on an in-line engine
Gaskets are
meant to prevent leakage of air/gases between the manifold and cylinder heads. The
gaskets are usually made out of copper, asbestos-type material, or paper. In other
applications, the machined surface fits directly against the matching surface on
the cylinder head. The exhaust passages from each port in the manifold join into a
common single passage before they reach the manifold flange. An exhaust pipe is
connected to the exhaust manifold flange. On a V-type engine an exhaust manifold is
bolted to each cylinder head.
The Exhaust Pipe (In-line)/ "Y" Pipe (V-
type)
The exhaust pipe is connected from the exhaust manifold to the
catalytic converter. On in-line engines the exhaust pipe is a single pipe, but on V-type
engines the exhaust pipe is connected to each manifold flange, and these two pipes are
connected into a single pipe under the rear of the engine. This single "Y" pipe is then
attached to the catalytic converter. Exhaust pipes may be made from stainless steel
or zinc-plated steel, and some exhaust pipes are double-walled. In some exhaust
systems, an intermediate pipe is connected between the exhaust pipe and the
catalytic converter. Some have a heavy tapered steel or steel composition sealing
washer positioned between the exhaust pipe flange and the exhaust manifold flange.
Other exhaust pipes have a tapered end that fits against a ball-shaped surface on the
exhaust manifold flange. Bolts or studs and nuts retain the exhaust pipe to the
exhaust manifold, as shown in the diagram below.
Some V-type engines have
dual exhaust systems with separate exhaust pipes and exhaust systems connected to
each exhaust manifold.
The Catalytic Converter
Three major
automotive pollutants are carbon monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC), and
oxides of nitrogen (NOx). When air and gasoline are mixed and burned in the combustion
chambers, the by-products of combustion are carbon, carbon dioxide (CO2), CO, and
water vapor. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon fuel containing hydrogen and carbon. Since
the combustion process in the cylinders is never 100% complete, some unburned HC are
left over in the exhaust. Some HC emissions occur from evaporative sources, such as
gasoline tanks and carburetors.
Oxides of nitrogen (NOx) are caused by high
cylinder temperature. Nitrogen and oxygen are both present in air. If the combustion
chamber temperatures are above 1,371 degrees Celsius, some of the oxygen and
nitrogen combine to form NOx. In the presence of sunlight, HC and NOx join to form
smog.
Catalytic converters may be pellet-type or monolithic-type. A pellet-type
converter contains a bed made from hundreds of small beads, and the exhaust gas passes
over this bed (see Fig 1). In a monolithic-type converter, the exhaust gas passes
through a honeycomb ceramic block (Fig 2). The converter beads, or ceramic block, are
coated with a thin coating of platinum, palladium, or rhodium, and mounted in a
stainless steel container. An oxidation catalyst changes HC and CO to CO2 and water
vapor (H20). The oxidation catalyst may be referred to as a two-way catalytic
converter (Fig 3).
Fig 1: Pellet-type catalytic converter
Fig 2:
Monolithic-type catalytic converter
Fig 3: Oxidation catalyst changed HC
and CO to CO2
Fig 4: Three-way catalytic converter operation
In a three-
way catalytic converter, the converter is positioned in front of the oxidation
catalyst. A three-way catalytic converter reduces NOx emissions as well as CO and HC.
The three-way catalyst reduces NOx into nitrogen and oxygen (Fig 4).
Some
catalytic converters contain a thermo-sensor that illuminates a light on the
instrument panel if the converter begins to overheat. Unleaded gasoline must be used
in engines with catalytic converters. If leaded gasoline is used, the lead in the
gasoline coats the catalyst and makes it ineffective. Under this condition, tail
pipe emissions become very high. An engine that is improperly tuned would also cause
severe overheating of the catalytic converter. Examples of improper tuning would be
a rich air-fuel mixture or cylinder misfiring.
Many catalytic converters have an
air hose connected from the belt-driven air pump to the oxidation catalyst. This
converter must have a supply of oxygen to operate efficiently. On some engines, a mini-
catalytic converter is built into the exhaust manifold or bolted to the manifold
flange.
The Resonator, Muffler, and Tailpipe
Since the
resonator and muffler perform basically the same functions, I decided to write about
them under one heading. Firstly, the main function of the muffler is to reduce the
sound of the engine’s outcoming exhaust gases through the exhaust pipes to a minimal
level. Since the muffler cannot reduce the noise of the engine by itself, some (if not
most) exhaust systems also have a resonator between the catalytic converter and the
muffler. Resonators are basically the second muffler, and are usually the "straight
through" type.
The muffler quiets the noise of the exhaust by "muffling" the
sound waves created by the opening and closing of the exhaust valves. When an exhaust
valve opens, it discharges the burned gases at high pressures into the exhaust pipe,
which is at low pressure. This type of action creates sound waves that travel through
the flowing gas, moving much faster than the gas itself (up to 1400 mph = 625.8m/s),
that the resonator and muffler must silence. It generally does this by converting the
sound wave energy into heat by passing the exhaust gas and its accompanying wave
pattern, through perforated tubes and tuning chambers. Passing into perforations
and reflectors within the chamber forces the sound waves to dissipate their
energy.
The above described and pictured muffler design is the most common
type, the reverse-flow design, which changes the direction of exhaust flow inside the
muffler. Exhaust gases are directed to the third chamber, forced forward to the first
chamber, from where they travel the length of the muffler and are exhausted into the
tailpipe.
Some mufflers are a straight through design in which the exhaust
passes through a single perforated pipe into a outside chamber packed with metal,
fiberglass, packed glass, or other sound absorbing (or insulating) material. As the
exhaust gases expand from the perforated inner pipe into the outer chamber, they come
in contact with the insulator and escape to the atmosphere under constant pressure.
Because of this, the expanding chamber tends to equalize or spread the pressure peaks
throughout the exhaust from each individual cylinder of the engine. This type of
muffler is thus freer flowing and designed for the purpose of reducing back pressure
and, consequently, makes slightly more noise.
The tail pipe basically carries
the flow of exhaust from the muffler to the rear of the vehicle. Some vehicles have an
integral resonator in the tail pipe. Like the resonator mentioned earlier, this
resonator is similar to a small muffler, and it provides additional exhaust
silencing. In some exhaust systems, the resonator is clamped into the tail pipe. Tail
pipes have many different bends to fit around the chassis and driveline components.
In general, all exhaust systems components must be positioned away from the chassis
and driveline to prevent rattling. The tail pipe usually extends under the rear
bumper, and the end of this pipe is cut at an angle to deflect the exhaust
downward.
Methods on How to Improve Efficiency and Power
After the
above discussion of the components in an automotive exhaust system, it is obvious
that the principle of the engine as a pump is not being utilized to the fullest. Air is
not allowed to flow too freely because of restrictions in the form of the catalytic
converter, the resonator, and the muffler. However, these components are necessary
by regulations to maintain safe exhaust gas emissions and minimal sound levels
(noise suppression). Also, in part, it takes time and money to design an excellent
performing and free flowing exhaust system; something that car manufacturers just
can’t afford to waste resources on. This is where aftermarket companies come in to
create cost effective options for performance minded car owners. Of course, a free
flowing exhaust would be expected to make more noise than a normal one. But a good
manufactured system has a deep throaty tone, while yielding increases in horse power
and also passing emission tests. I will now go through some of the modifications of the
exhaust system that would "unleash" some horsepower and efficiency, while still
being street-legal.
Replacing the Exhaust Manifold with a Tuned
Header
A header is a different type of manifold; it is made of separate equal-
length cylindrical tubes with smooth curves in it for improving the flow of
exhaust.
Each time a power stroke occurs and an exhaust valve opens, a positive
pressure occurs in the exhaust manifold. A negative pressure occurs in the exhaust
manifolds between the positive pressure pulses, especially at lower engine speeds.
Some exhaust headers are tuned so the exhaust pulses enter the exhaust manifold
between the exhaust pulses from other cylinders, preventing interference between
the exhaust pulses. If the exhaust pressure pulses interfere with each other, the
exhaust flow is slowed, causing a decrease in volumetric efficiency (and thus
decrease in horsepower). Proper exhaust manifold/header tuning actually creates a
vacuum, which helps to draw exhaust out of the cylinders and improve volumetric
efficiency, resulting in an increase in horsepower.
Dual Exhaust
Systems
For engines with the "V" type configurations, it would be more efficient
to use a dual exhaust system than the "Y" pipe. In other words, two pipes (instead of
one) connect the exhaust manifold/header to two catalytic converters, two
resonators, and two mufflers. Thereby each manifold will have their own resonators,
catalytic converters, exhaust pipes, mufflers, and tailpipes. The advantage of a
dual exhaust system is that the engine exhausts air and gases more freely, thereby
lowering the back pressure, which is inherent in an exhaust system. With a dual
exhaust system, a sizable increase in engine horsepower can be obtained because the
"breathing" capacity of the engine is improved, leaving less exhaust gases in the
engine at the end of each exhaust stroke. This, in turn, leaves more room for an extra
intake of the air-fuel mixture. The disadvantage of a dual exhaust system is that it
would be costly due to the additional components. No doubt the addition of another
exhaust system adds more weight to the car, but the increase in horsepower is
substantial enough to outweigh the horsepower losses through additional
weight.
Removing the Resonator
The resonator does not function also as
emissions control device, so removing it and putting a straight pipe connecting the
catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe will not cause the car to fail emissions
test. Instead, some horsepower can be realized and not to mention the loudness of the
exhaust. However, with a tuned muffler, the sound can be toned down to a deep throaty
sound that is not irritable.
Upgrading to Larger Pipe Diameter
The factory
exhaust pipes have diameters around 1.5" to 2" (some 2.25" for newer larger engine
cars). Increasing the diameter of the piping will also increase the average
path/cross- sectional area that the air can pass with a minute decrease in velocity. As
mentioned before, if the diameter (and hence cross-sectional area) of the pipe is
increased too much, the velocity of the air flow will decrease more than the area
increases, so flow would be adversely affected and power would be lost.
So,
depending on the size of the engine, the optimal size pipe to upgrade to varies from 2"
to 2.5". On average, a naturally aspirated 2.5 liter engine would suffice with 2.25"
exhaust piping from the catalytic converter back to the muffler inlet.
Mandrel
Bent Versus Crush Bent Piping
Another way to upgrade the exhaust piping from the
catalytic converter back to the muffler is to have the exhaust piping mandrel (heat)
bent instead of the conventional crush bending. As the name suggests, mandrel bends
are achieved through the heating of the piping before bending whereas crush bent just
literally mean that the piping is bent entirely by force. However, the main
difference between mandrel bent and crush bent piping is the ease of flow. Mandrel
piping keeps the pipe at a constant cross-sectional area throughout a bend which makes
exhaust flow easier. On the other hand, crush bending deforms the pipe at the bend(s),
which can restrict the exhaust flow. The disadvantage of mandrel bending is that it is
relatively expensive, because of the costs involved in operating a mandrel bending
heat machine. A popular alternative is to get piping with larger diameter and then
have it crush bent. This way, it kind of evens out the differences in air flow ease,
especially if that particular exhaust pipe configuration has a lot of bends and 90
degree bends.
Straight Th