Welcome to the AutoFAQ.
This file is unmoderated. You can probably expect it to be somewhat of
a jumbled mess, but with some search techniques, you should be able to
find what you're looking for.
Re: crank pully (more) it is a bitch, SECRET...
Question:
Well, when I did this, no amount of leverage/breaker bars/etc. would
budge that baby except for an impact wrench. That bold is usally a
real bitch kitty to get off. I broke down and bought an impact
wrench for like $35 bucks, and that pulled the bolt off slicker than
grease...didn't even need to support the flywheel or anything to keep
it from turning. Good luck!
-x-
Answer:
I didn't know how to tackle that bolt either...Who would have EVER
thought that thing could be so tight...Hmmm.
I ended up removing the flywheel inspection cover (along with a brace
to the exhaust...once removed, I jammed a bigger screwdriver into the
teeth on the outside of the flywheel "so it had a solid place on the
outside of the trans case" to consider that side "locked".
I then took a 1/2 Craftsman rachet W/short peice of pipe (not much
room when on floor jacks...HERES THE SECRET...
You need room to swing the hammer, so put it on the last one or two
notches the rachet will allow, Apply moderate torque (like your
trying to undo it as you would... AND THEN "Wack it with a hammer on
the rachet very close to the head of the rachet" (two inches out).
The third Wack did it for me (I was getting MAD!)
Woz
Who now knows "long levers take more torque".
(this was with a 16-Oz hammer..The biggest I own!)
It worked for me....I'm not going there again!
Posted by: Woz
on June 05, 2000 at 17:18:50.
I've had that same question before.
Question:
I'll be needing to do this again soon on the b16 because I didn't do it right the first time. My main question is how do I know what level of drag is
good? slides easily both ways? slides out easily but difficult to push in?
thanks guys. I know some of you guys consider this an art. :)
John
Answer:
"How much valves should be adjusted"
That's one thing that isn't noted on the instructions.
It definitely cannot slide easily back and forth. You will notice
that the strip will slide differently depending on which side you are
working on (Inlet or Exhaust). Try to make them the same all the way
ACROSS on the inlet side, and same for the exhaust side. The amount
of drag felt on the exhaust side can be different from the amount of
drag on the inlet side since you are using different guage strips.
Also it MUST have drag, but not so much that you can't pull the strip
out.
So here is how much I've been tightening:
Tighten it enough so that when you slide the strip back and forth it
will make a squeaking sound. In order for this to occur there must
definitely be a good amount of drag: which is enough to make the
squeaking noise, but also enough to allow you to create that noise.
I've adjusted the valves on a few ZCs like this and everything runs
well.
Remember though, the noise coming from the engine when it is running
is excessive when the valves are too loose. That is why I tighten
them with the extra amount of drag (yet it still stays in spec). HTH
AS
Posted by: snakeyez
on June 06, 2000 at 10:14:41.
Re: OEM Foglight Switch -pictures/details...
Question:
Well this is not a speech about being put down by the Man or Uncle Sam.
I just NEED to find 88-91 OEM fog lights!! They are showing up
discontinued but they have to be somewhere, right? Besides the junkyards..
Any Info would help. Or, if anyone knows what aftermarket foggies fit or
can be modified to fit. Thanks all.
Answer:
the number M9094 as depicted on the part doesn't appear to be a Honda Code, or Honda Part number at Manchester Honda
(hondaautomotiveparts.com) - there are no other part/serial numbers on it...
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/1.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/2.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/3.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/4.jpg]
Just got off of the phone with my local honda dealer, they had some trouble with the part number, and actually gave me a "Honda
Code number of: 3384708" - retails at $15.00+/- and they have about a dozen in their regional warehouse (I just ordered two more of
them)
Manchester Honda has it at:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/MajesticHonda/searchrslthncde.d2w/report
(may have to
cut+paste the url) or just go to the site, and search by "honda code".
-Ryan
Posted by: Ryan Runnels
on July 14, 2000 at 05:56:08.
Re: OEM Foglight Switch -pictures/details...
Question:
Well this is not a speech about being put down by the Man or Uncle Sam.
I just NEED to find 88-91 OEM fog lights!! They are showing up
discontinued but they have to be somewhere, right? Besides the junkyards..
Any Info would help. Or, if anyone knows what aftermarket foggies fit or
can be modified to fit. Thanks all.
Answer:
the number M9094 as depicted on the part doesn't appear to be a Honda Code, or Honda Part number at Manchester Honda
(hondaautomotiveparts.com) - there are no other part/serial numbers on it...
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/1.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/2.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/3.jpg]
[Image http://www.tir.com/~carpaydm/CRX/switch/4.jpg]
Just got off of the phone with my local honda dealer, they had some trouble with the part number, and actually gave me a "Honda
Code number of: 3384708" - retails at $15.00+/- and they have about a dozen in their regional warehouse (I just ordered two more of
them)
Manchester Honda has it at:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/MajesticHonda/searchrslthncde.d2w/report
(may have to
cut+paste the url) or just go to the site, and search by "honda code".
-Ryan
Posted by: Ryan Runnels
on July 14, 2000 at 05:56:08.
Gee Steve....
Answer:
I'll take props on all that work. Yes, I made that Excel document. I noticed that before you made those screen shots you DELETED
my name from the title of the right hand chart on
[Image http://207.235.26.17/projects/projects_1st_gen_integra_motor_86-7_si_to_88-9_teg_wiring_page_1.jpg]
It should read "TJ's DOHC PGM-FI EW3 harness w/D16A1 ECU (M/T)"
I don't know if anyone has actually tried making all those wiring changes yet, I just laid all that out to compare ECU connections
between the 1G PGM-FI CRX and the 88-89 Integra. No promises that it will actually work.
I did have it on my webpage for a while available for anyone to download, doing my part for the CRX community, but if your going to
appropriate my work, the least you can do is GIVE ME CREDIT.
Damn....
-TJ
Posted by: -TJ
on September 07, 2000 at 22:24:16.
Re: Gee Steve....
Question:
I'll take props on all that work. Yes, I made that Excel document. I noticed that before you made those screen shots you DELETED
my name from the title of the right hand chart on
[Image http://207.235.26.17/projects/projects_1st_gen_integra_motor_86-7_si_to_88-9_teg_wiring_page_1.jpg]
It should read "TJ's DOHC PGM-FI EW3 harness w/D16A1 ECU (M/T)"
I don't know if anyone has actually tried making all those wiring changes yet, I just laid all that out to compare ECU connections
between the 1G PGM-FI CRX and the 88-89 Integra. No promises that it will actually work.
I did have it on my webpage for a while available for anyone to download, doing my part for the CRX community, but if your going to
appropriate my work, the least you can do is GIVE ME CREDIT.
Damn....
-TJ
Answer:
TJ, have another look at that screenshot. There's nothing doctored
there. This is exactly as it appeared on my screen, when I hit ctrl-
print screen.
You're rather ascerbic about this whole issue, and you're highly
sceptical about my reasoned explanation. I don't want to be a part
of that -- not worth my time. I've pulled the images from the site,
and I'll refer anyone who asks about such a swap to you.
Posted by: Steve Jones
on September 17, 2000 at 17:31:21.
Hmmm...
First off, let me say that with a stock DX front bar and a stock Si
rear bar, it's not going to be anything near dangerous. The diff
between the front DX and Si bars are only 1mm, DX being the smaller
one. If you want to talk about some dangerous oversteer, let's talk
about my car... a '93 Si with a stock 22.5mm front bar and a 22mm
rear Progressive bar. While it's not dangerous to me because I'm
used to it, I'd be money that someone who wasn't expecting it would
plant the rear into a tree.
A sway is basically a spring, and being such, will increase your
spring rates. When you increase the spring rates, you should also
increase the bound and rebound rates of the shocks. However, with
the stock Si bar, it's so weak, you won't have to worry about
upgrading your shocks to compensate.
When I put the stock Si bar in my DX way back when, the only
difference I noticed was that the rear wheels didn't rub anymore. It
was only slightly more rotatable. However... with the EG, you crank
in a little rudder to get it turning, and once it rotates, you bring
it back to neutral for most of the turn and cancel the turn with a
wee bit of opposite input. Yes, I'm running stock shocks, and yes, I
plan on getting some Illuminas.
SOmething I just thought of- my EG didn't have a rear swaybar, or
even provisions for one. The Progress kit mounts to the arms with L
brackets that get bolted to the arm using the lower shock bolts.
Then the usual end links between the L brackets and the bar. Perhaps
you could do this instead of finding Si LCAs? Or... If the bar
isn't wide enough to get to the shock bolts (or lined up with 'em),
weld on some L brackets to the arms? Another thing- you'll have to
cut small access holes in the side of the frame to get the bar to
mount to the frame. This is fine, but I feel that it weakens the
area. What I would do, if you're ever planning on upgrading the bars
to bigger ones, is to cut an 1/8" piece of steel to fit inside the
frame where the bolts go through to strenthen the frame. When I
bolted up the bar mounts to the body of the DX, I could wiggle them
back and forth, flexing the metal of the frame around where they
mounted. It never fatigued or cracked in the year or so that I had
the stock Si bar back there, but it may if you go with a bigger bar...
Hope that helps.
Posted by: Ji Simmons
on November 19, 2000 at 14:19:14.
attach a 3/8" to 1/4" convertor to a 5" extension
Question:
i have gotten everyrhing off of my trans except the shirt linkage(due to
the stuck pin) and the axles, which i didnt even get to start on yet.but
anyway, how the frig do i get that rusted pin out? i am very tempted to
drill straight through it. any suggetions?
Answer:
Attach your 1/4" converting thingy to the little 3/8" socket
extension piece.
Get under the car and set it under the hole.
Then hammer HARD. You have to hammer the back of the extension very
very hard. Don't hurt yourself doing it, but if a guy weighing about
100 can do it, i'm sure you can do it to.
the pin that holds the shift linkage in is also known as the "Bitch
pin"
Try not to waste time and keep hitting it. You will need to hit it
hard. Don't show mercy.
Posted by: SnakEyez
on November 26, 2000 at 15:24:25.
What do you want to know?
I used the following...
B18A block (rebuilt with new bearings, seals, JDM ITR pistons,
shotpeened PR4 rods shaved to fit pistons, balanced assembly)
B16A head
ARP 8mm rod bolts
B18C1 oil pump (replacement/upgrade part)
B18A water pump (replacement part)
B18A head gasket
B18A timing belt
B18C1 head bolts
1/8 NPT brass plug (hollow)
3/8 NPT male to 4AN male fitting
1/8 NPT male to 4AN male fitting (x6)
1/8 NPT 'T' fitting with female ends (x2)
4 lengths of 4AN stainless lines with female ends
Here's how you put it together...
...the 1/8 plug goes into the oil pathway in the head that is closest
to the rear, distributor side of the head. This pathway needs to be
threaded with a 1/8 NPT tap.
...the 3/8 to -4 fitting goes in place of a plug in the back of the
head, behind the distributor. The existing plug can be removed with a
hex wrench.
...one of the 1/8 to -4 fittings goes in place of the stock oil
press. sending unit in the back of the block. It can be unscrewed
from it's stock location.
...three more 1/8 to -4 fittings will mate to one of the 'T'
fittings. One length of ss line goes from block to 'T'. Another
length goes from 'T' to my oil pressure gauge. Another length goes to
the second 'T' fitting.
...the last two 1/8 to -4 fittings mate to the last 'T'. One of which
accepts the affore mentioned ss line from the first 'T'. Now, another
ss line connects the other 1/8 in this 'T' to your 3/8 fitting in the
head. That just leaves one opening for the stock oil pressure sending
unti to screw into.
...Now for the dowel pins. There are two dowel pins aligning the head
and block. They go around two of your head bolts. Which two is the
problem... on the B18A block, it's the two inner most bolt holes on
the exhaust side. On the B16A head, it's the holes next to those,
farther away from the center... also on the exhaust side. I bored out
these hols in the head, and also made the same modifications to the
head gasket. Gaskets are fragile so this should be done with care.
Now everything gets put together and torqued and the newly assembled
long block is mated to your transmission. Everything is then dropped
back into your car and the fun begins.
That's everything, parts... to assembly... to drop in. All told, the
entire project cost me a little less than $1500 to complete... which
was my goal. I already had the B16A head and S1 tranny but the rest
is included in that price. Hope this helps answer your questions...
now someone make sure this get's FAQ'd! ;o)
-Kevin
Posted by: Kevin
on December 08, 2000 at 15:37:59.
Body seam seal (long)
Question:
What causes almost every crx to leak when it rains. I have a 91 DX without
a sun roof. Could the lil plastic tubes be clogged from that hatch drain.
Every one's Crx around here has the same problem. It dont think its
leaking from the hatch seal. Any info appreciated.
Answer:
After removing and replacing the sunroof in my 91 Si, I found it
wasn't the problem. Turns out the seam where the roof panel is
welded to the quarter panel of the car was causing the problem.
At the factory the two panels are spot welded togther and the
small gap left is filled with body sealer. As time goes by the
sealer hardens and then cracks allowing water to enter the
seam and get inside the car. I used some 3M "Heavy Drip Check
Sealer" to fix mine, it's available at autobody supply stores.
The seam is at the top two corners of the hatch jamb. The two
black black thingies that run the length of the roof conceal the
weld between the two panels. My car was leaking at the very end
of the passenger black strip right at the end. I popped off the
black thing with a small flatblade screwdriver and cleaned out
the crud in there, then applied the sealer over the old cracked
sealer. This stopped the leak for a few months, but now it's
back. (Although not as bad.) The proper way to fix this is to dig
out all the old crusty sealer, prime it with catalyzed primer and
then reseal the seam. I may do this before I repaint my car.
Hope this helps!
Posted by: Mike Blommel
on January 02, 2001 at 08:02:51.
A trick and a review.
Question:
i wanna put poly bushings throughout my car but are they gonna squeak? I
already have a progress camber kit with poly bushings in the front and
they squeak like crazy.i wanna stiffen it up but i dont know if i can deal
with the noise. does anyone know of a greasable polyeurathane kit for the
crx?
Answer:
I put the ES Master Kit + Trailing arm Kit on my car over Christmas.
If you want to do the Trailing Arms (Highly Recommended), you have to
order those seperately, for another $25 or so.
Like everyone says, Royal PIA. I figured out a trick to getting
stubborn ones out though. Get a jig saw with a long metal cutting
blade. Push the center sleeve out where there is only the outer
sleeve and some rubber left. This is fairly easy. Use the jig saw
to cut through the outer sleeve in 2 places, about .25" from each
other. Use a punch and hammer to get the 1/4" Sliver out, then the
rest of the bushing hammers out very easy. This was for the LCA's.
The trailing arem bushings were the worst for 2 reasons. 1, you have
to reuse the outer shell, and they recommend not pressing it out of
the Trailing arm. 2, I left the trailing arms on the car because I
didn't want to disconnect the brakes. I cut most of the rubber out
with the jig saw, and cleaned up the rest with a wire brush on a die
grinder.
Anyway, I love the way they stiffened up the car. I live in Atlanta,
which has fairly good roads, but they don't seem too stiff to me. I
installed my GC's with stiffer springs at the same time, so it was a
dramatic change. My car used to have a problem with taking a set in
a corner. The rear end would skip. I believe this was due to the
deteriorated Trailing Arm Bushings. That problem is now gone. In
general, the car just feels much more confident in aggressive
driving.
As for noise, I got the Black Bushings, which have graphite
Impregnated in them, and I also used the grease liberally, and I
haven't heard my first squeak, even with temps down in the single
digits.
Posted by: Dave Hardy
on January 28, 2001 at 07:41:55.
its really easy to fix
Question:
i've got an 88 crx and the damn rear hatch keeps on squeaking. I know that
it's a general problem with all crx's so i'm wondering what's the best way
to fix that up. It's so darn annoying!
Answer:
everyone has their own little witch doctor tricks for curing the
hatch squeak. heres what i like to do, loosen the screws that hold
the u shaped latch onto the hatch lid, then slide the spacer plate
out from behind the latch, now retighten the screws. this should
close the hatch down tighter and eliminatethe hatch squeak. but if it
doesnt here are a few more. the loosen the rubber feet towards the
outer edge of the hatch. try putting a little grease on the latch
(some kid swears buy this method) also you can put a bit of
electrical tape around the latch. good luck
Posted by: Gino Fultano(shoots his mouth off to the wrong people)
on February 18, 2001 at 13:07:35.
Pounding aside,....
The end link bushings (front sway bar links), the shift stabilizing
bushings, the radius rod bushings ("strut rod bushings" in kit) can
be popped out by yourself with nothing more than a wrench. The other
stuff can be pounded (easier after a few seconds under a torch) out
or cut and grinded out. Hard part really is removing all the
suspension pieces without air tools. My 88 CRX is sitting in the
parking lot right this very second without its radius rods, as I take
a break from doing those bushings. Bought a propane torch, so we'll
see about the rest of them. I figure the next-easiest set to do is
the rear lower control arms. Just unbolt them (creative jack
placement helps remove the spring/shock assembly) and pop the old
ones out, and replace the bushings and stick the units back in. The
front can get messy with axle and ball joint removal. Maybe the
steering rack won't be so bad. Hey, I should try those right now.....
-JW
Posted by: JamesW
on March 19, 2001 at 23:31:04.
It's NOT nitrous.
Ed has something like 550cc Injectors. (I can't remember the exact amount.) He is not using Propane to replace larger injectors. Again,
propane reduces the tendency of the nitrous, fuel, and air to detonate. The Propane prevents things from combusting before they are
supposed to, so you can run more timing and nitrous on the same amount of fuel.
Preventing detonation is pretty simple: You need to limit the factors that bring about detonation. So, what CUASES detonation? Lack
of fuel, hot spots in the combustion chamber, not enough octane in the fuel you are using, too much ignition timing, and some other.
Let's look at each one of these things seperately:
Lack of fuel.
This can be taken care of many different ways. You can get a different fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors, and aftermarket engine
control, or any combination of the above. If you have ALOT of boost, you need alot more fuel. If you jack up the pressure with a
pressure regulator, and you max out the injectors, the spray pattern will become more jet like that spray like. Less fuel will actually
become atomized and dispersed in a way that will burn. Larger injectors basically can pass more fuel per time open than stock
injectors. However, if you go too big on the injectors with a stock ECU, the ECU will keep them open too long (as it can't open and
shut them fast enough), and you will run pig rich at idle (and maybe all over the RPM range, depending on how rich you are running),
and that's IF the car runs at all. After market engine controls are vaulable because they can fine tune control. That means you can idle
with huge injectors, and eliminate the need for an unorthodox amount of fuel pressure. (If you run too high fuel pressure for too long,
you WILL break an injector, even if it's not maxing out the capabilities of the injector.) So, Ideally, to prpoerly run more fuel, you need
to get a fuel pressure regulator for mild mods, and some combination of bigger injectors/aftermarket ECU for more wack stuff.
Too Much Ignition timing.
This is bad becuase for several reasons, but we'll just focus on thisin regards to detonation. Too much timing will set off the air/fuel
mixture while the piston is still traveling upwards on the compression stroke at a high rate of speed. This causes a flame front and a
bunch of very hot, rapidly expanding gasses to blast though the rest of the uncombusted mixture and then into the piston. Since this is
happening too soon in the compression stroke, the mixture may not be evenly mixed yet (if it ever is in any engine), and the parts of the
cumbustion space which have more gas than others will light off first, causing pockets of forcefull burning, instead of one contnious,
"smooth" burn. This will cause detonation, and since it's happening when the piston is coming up full force, it's particuallrly bad. (ALL
detonation is bad, just for the record.) There are electronic units out ont he market that use knock detectors to detect detonation, and
the retard the ignition timing in either individual cylinders, like the J&S Safegaurd, or just in general, like some other units. I think MSD
came out with a unit like that, but I am not sure. Having dynamic control over detonation is key to having a heathy FI engine.
Not Enough Octane:
By definition, octane is the ability of fuel to resist detonation. The higher the octane, the more "abuse" fuel can take before it burns
before it's actually ignited by the spark plug. I am not exactly sure how Propane interacts with gasoline to produce higher octane in the
total system, but as Ed said, it is 110-sih octane in itself. That means it's MUCH more likely to resist detonation than 92 Octane gas.
Another way to increase octane is to incrase the "quench" in the combustion chamber. Quench is defined as artificial, or mechanical
octane. It has to do with the combustion chamber and piston interaction. Quench area is basically any part of the combustion chamber
that comes VERY close to the piston without contacting it, and is usually perpendicular to the piston motion.
See theis Post that I made about quench on the T.O.O.
Forum:http://ferrari.colowatch.com/php/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=Member_Tech&Number=17017&Search=true&Forum=Memb
er_Tech&Words=Eureka&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=2weeks&Main=17017
Gotta cut and paste, I guess.
COntrary to popular and conventional thought, Octane is not the be all and end all of determining how much your engine can put out.
It has to do with the control of combustion to get a quality burn, and that will lead to more efficiency.
Hot Spots:
There are alot of imperfections in stock heads. These can have a great effect on the overall performance of the engine. Pistons are
notorious for having casting imperfections that get glowing hot and cause the fuel to light off way too soon. Aftermarket pistons are
usually terrible in this regards, having pointes, and edges all over. Refinishings pistons and the combustion chamber can
reduce detonation quite signifigantly. Exhuast valves are also another cuase of detonation, especially with advanced timing. They
heat up, and they can get to the point where they can light off the mixture. Finally, one other cause of detonation that many people
don't think of is the build up of carbon deposits. I'm sure you've seen the info-mercials that show the valves crusted with carbon. That
carbon can cause alot of other problems besides detonation, and the easiest way to get rid of them is to run an engine cleaner like
Regaine (made by Gumout) through the engine with every oil change.
One last thing to think about: Oil vapors. Oil vapors have a flashpoint (meaning the temperature and presusre needed to ignite them)
that is MUCH lower than gas. Running the Breather tube correctly on the intake manifold, and a catch can before the PCV return to
the intake can reduce detonation AND nasty looking deposits on the intake manifold, which hamper overall performance.
So, yes, there are ways around detation. Most of it has to do with tuning correctly, and keeping a strict maintainance schedule.
Re: USDM CRXes are supoosed to do that.
Question:
As do a lot of Honda products. It isn't considered a rice thing. It is desirable to be able to indicate that you are about to turn to other
drivers that can't see your bumper lenses due to their location.
Answer:
I read the faq about wiring the corner lights to flash with the
bumperlights....What if i want my cornerlights to do all the flashing
and disable my bumperlights?
I am an utter idiot when it comes to electrical systems, so if you
could explain it to me by using examples like apples and pokeman,
that would be great.
Posted by: Mazmay
on April 04, 2001 at 10:42:27.
Re: squeaky rear Hatch!! Im going nuts
You are not alone. Very common problem. The 3 main remedies are
1) There are 2 rubber stops on the sides. Try turning them out a few
revs.
2) Duct tape or electrical tape around the latch hoop.
3) Remove the spacer under the latch hoop on the hatch.
I tried #2. Worked for a while, but had to keep replacing it. Finally
tried #3 about 2 months ago. Been quiet ever since.
Greg Hansen
'89 Si
Posted by: GregH
on April 05, 2001 at 21:24:02.
Tranny School 101
Question:
After I've been parked and put my car into reverse, my tranny grinds! WTF?
Only in reverse too. The clutch is pushed all the way in too, so what
could cause this? TIA!
Answer:
Reverse has no synchros. By shifting into ANY gear before hitting
reverse you stop all rotation of the gearsets. Just so happen reverse
works off of 1-2 gearset.
Tranny need time to "slow down" before hi8tting reverse
Posted by: Mista Bone
on May 04, 2001 at 20:39:10.
ES LCA with no Air / Press Required . . .
And you don't need to remove the LCA from the car.
First while the car is in the air - ( lift / jackstands ) you need to cut the webbing that holds the pin in the bushing. This allows the pin to
be unbolted and removed. The bushing will have a nice donut of rubber remaining. Here is the elbow-grease portion of the job.
Now using a fish filet knife or similar, start to cut out the remnants of the rubber donut. When you have the rubber out, you will be left
with about 1/16" that is too tough to remove. Get a drill and the round scotch-brite pads ( you can get them for rotary tools ) Using the
pads, remove the remaining rubber and polish up the shell.
The pin you removed will have a large rubber piece bonded to it. Using vice-grips, and a torch ( propane / Acetalene etc )
carbonize the rubber, Do this OUTSIDE as it produces a huge amount of smoke, and releases a wack o'nasty chemicals. Using
whatever is at hand, old screwdrivers, channel locks etc, remove the rubber from the pin. When its gone, polish the pin on a wire
wheel or similar.
For installation of the new ES bushings, you will need a threaded rod, 2 nuts and 2 metal plates withe a hole large enough for the rod.
You are going to make a press. You will put the rod thru the LCA, with a plate and nut on one end. On the other end you place the ES
bushing, the other plate and the nut. Now with a little patience ( 5 min ) you will tighten the nuts to push the bushing into the sleeve.
Remember to use LOTS of that nasty gooey sticky grease they provide. - When the bushing is in, remove the rod assembly. Lube
the pin, slide it thru the new bushing and reinstall the mounting bolts. You are now finished.
Some consider this method a PITA, but it is ALOT easier than total removal of the LCA, finding a shop to do the press work, pulling
out your wallet then having to reinstall the whole thing. I did both of mine this way in about 2 hours or so, and this was on a 90Si that
had seen 9 Canadian winters by this time without ever haveing a wrench in this area.
Anyway, good luck and hope this helps...
Posted by: mykel
on June 18, 2001 at 00:31:10.
not impossible.......
Posted by: Mista Bone
on July 03, 2001 at 23:49:15.
Fuel injector (AUTOFAQ)
Question:
are the o-rings you mention the injector seals i was told to replace
or are these separate? im looking to clean and restore them in
whatever way possible. i believe i have "leaky injectors". thanks.
Answer:
It's pretty easy to pull the injectors.
You have to take off the wire harness first.
This is the hardest part of it all.
Disconnect all this, and then diconnect the round plug and the green
plug on the driver side to pull the harness out of the way.
Next you use a 7/8" wrench and open the fuel rail SLOWLY.
(Actually you get rid of the fuel pressure first, but I'm lazy and I
just open it very slowly with a rag around the damn thing. In order
to bleed properly you should open the 10mm bolt on the fuel filter.)
Then you pull the fuel line going to the fuel pressure regulator.
Also get the vacuum line off.
Next on the back of the rail you take off the 3 nuts holding it in
place. Once you have these out, you can pull carefully on the rail
and pull it out with the injectors. There will be alot of fuel
leaking all over the place so be ready with a rag.
You can simply pull on the injectors and they will come out. Those O-
rings at the top of the injectors are the seals. Also if you go back
and look on the intake manifold you will see a larger set of O
rings.
If you have leaky injectors, I recommend replacing both of these.
Also clean around the sides of the tip of the injector. Mine had
alot of gunk on it, and I dipped it in alcohol to clean it up.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Posted by: SnakEyez (EFing_A)
on July 06, 2001 at 05:43:05.
Re: Pro-kit and blues
On the CRX the camber setting of the wheels is not adjustable. Camber is the direction of lean of the rim/tire.
When you look at the wheels from either the front or rear, you will notice that the top of the wheel is angled slightly inward.
This causes the car to sit / ride more on the inner edge of the tire. As the car is lowered this becomes more pronounced.
This is what is refered to as Negative camber. Some negative camber is good for performance driving / racing etc. Under hard
cornering this allows the tire to "roll" over a bit. Being that you are initally riding on the inner portion of the tire, this side loading will
then have to move thru a plane that allows the tire to then be equally loaded accross its width before "rolling" onto the outer edge
where a loss of traction will occur. Note that a race alignment will not work well on the street from a tire wear perspective. This
addional lean will promote a fast tire wear on the inner edge. Under race contidions this is not an issue as max grip is what is
sought, at the expence of uneven wear.
A correction kit can take different forms. On the front it is usually and adjustable device that is inserted into the fork of the upper A
arm. This way a lateral adjustment can be made to increase or decrease this amount of "lean" In the rear of the 2nd gen CRX this
can also be accomplished by using washers as spacers to move the upper shock pickup point further away from its mount - hence
a change in the amount of "lean" or camber.
On my 90 Si, I have tokikos and Eibach pro-kits. The drop is about 1.5". When they were originally installed, I had little adverse
negative camber. BUT - when I changed all of my bushings for Energy Suspension Poly, I then had to add camber adjustment to
bring it back into a range that did not wear tires too rapidly. I used Ingals in the front and the washer space trick described above in
the rear. I currently run about -1degree both front and rear, this will give me some handleing bennefits but will not promote a large
amount of additional inner tire wear. Note that even with this amount, nearing the end of the life of the tires you can see it, the inner
edge has less tread than the outer edge.
HTH, and as usual I seem to be unable to answer a question without writing a novel......
Posted by: mykel
on July 06, 2001 at 10:55:21.
Re: depends on the jackshaft.
Question:
reading up on what I can I can't find anything on the axels. I'm figuring
that the drive/haft shaft probably would be to long to fit any other axels
in there. Do you use the 88-89 Axels?
Answer:
Passenger side is always 1990 Integra LS Non-ABS 5spd axle.
Drivers side depends on the intermediate shaft on the motor/tranny.
If you have a Y1 intermediate shaft, you use an 88-89 5spd Integra
axle with a 90-91 Integra inner CV joint.
If you have a S1 intermediate shaft, you use a 90 Integra 5spd axle.
There's a lot more on this on HASport's page:
http://www.hasport.com/
John
Posted by: John Moeller
on August 05, 2001 at 16:47:01.
Get a screwdriver.....(Benchshifting 101)
Question:
ok I ve installed the b18b back in the CRX, but now the shifter is not
moving at all? did I tighten something to tight? I mean I can't move it at
all!!!!
Answer:
unbolt the stablizer. now remove the bitch pin and shifty linkage.
Insert the screwdriver through the bitch pin hole. You should be able
to go front to back to front with 3 clicks. In the center of the
clicks try moving screwdriver l-r-l. If you can go both ways, try
going right (the handle) and backwards, that is 1st. Now go forwards
while holding pressure this is 2nd. Good?? Might get some resistance
as tranny is not moving/rotating. Now go back and let the screwdriver
self center this is third. Now push forward and you have 4th. Pull
back and move screwdriver to the left in center detent then pull
back, that will be 5th. Now push the screwdriver forward and allow it
to recenter. Move the screwdriver to the left and push forward, you
should here a loud click IF reverse lines up. 50% of the time it
won't. You have to think how you linkage works below the pivot point
on the shifter.
Try that and then tell us the results.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on September 10, 2001 at 04:49:50.
Bench Bleeding 101.........
Question:
Hi!
I've just bought a '90 Prelude(15/16) master cylinder for my Rex.I've
been told to use this one for the Big brakes upgrade available at
Fastbrakes.
I have some questions:
-In my Helms,they said to use a pushrod clearance adjustement,if
necesary.It's brand new from Honda.Do I have to that adjustement?
What if I don't have this tool?
-Do I have to bleed the master cylinder in a vise before or just bleeding
the normal way,by each wheels will do the trick?
I need real answer.
Not personal opinion,please.
Thanks in advance!
François
Answer:
DON'T DO IT ON A BENCH WITH A VISE!
Think how much you have to twist and turn the MC to get it inplace.
Instead mount the MC to the booster and then connect the "bench
bleeding" lines Have someone od the pumping from inside the car for
the bench bleeding exercise. Now all you have to do is install the 2
hard lines and bleed each wheel. If you do a true bench bleed, you
have to plug the MC outlets or like most of us, hold you fingers over
the outlest while trying to mount it to the firewall.
QWIK TIP.....
After "bench bleeding oncar" you might wanna loosen the MC mounting
nuts so the hard lines are easier to get started.
BTW some this is some old V8 tricks I learned 20+ years ago. I was
pumping the brakes for dad when I was about 11.
PUMP, HOLD, RELEASE, PUMP......you get the idea.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on September 19, 2001 at 02:45:34.
Alot of factors....+ Burnout 101
Question:
What kind of drag slicks do you guys recommend?
I've seen a lot of people run m/t 20x8x14
What about BF Goodrich drag radials?
Also, what is the lifespan of these things usually, in number of quarter
mile runs?
Answer:
I do suggest a 14x7 rim if possible. The reason most go with the MT
slicks is for gearing to help the car. I run 14 psi and got approx.
175-200 passes ouy of the first set. They wore out on the inner edges
because of the 1.7 degrees neg. camber I use.
Also, heat well.
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/burnout2nd.jpg]
Burnout 101
This picture shows the perfect burnout. I now use second gear, way
easier. Notice that the front tires are just out of the water box but
the rear hasn't went in yet? It helps to have a good track crew that
doesn't splash water all over the place.
Set ebrake HARD. Rev engine to about 3500 rpm and let the clutch out
sorta fast. Take the rpms up to about 6000-6500 rpms and when you get
smoke like in the picture (6-8 seconds) either release the ebrake and
the lift the throttle and roll out. Most likely the front tires will
grab and DRAG the locked rear tires. Then do one dry hop to make sure
the tires are hooking. Stage and launch when last yellow comes on.
I usually launch at 6500-7000 rpm, even with the NOS.
Hit me with your questions, I've made about 300 passes on these style
slicks.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on September 22, 2001 at 00:24:07.
The ultimate CRX cupholder solution inside
Finally figured out a way to mount a decent cupholder in this thing.
First, I dug out a black bicycle waterbottle holder out of my closet of
bike parts. Then took off the center console (6 screws I think: 2 sneaky
ones -- 1 inside the glovebox, 1 under the driver's dash) and drilled two
holes to match the water bottle mounts on the passenger side of the
console (check for a good position forward and down which allows you to
move the passenger seat back and forth and open the glovebox). Screwed it
on with a couple of screws, nuts and washers lying around, and voila -- a
g-force tested cupholder! Perfect size for those half-liter Coke bottles
and most "not so frickin' large" fast food cups.
The black plastic one I dug out matched my interior perfectly -- almost
looks OEM. Riceboys can go to thier local bike shop and find them in all
sorts of custom colors to match their rides.
Posted by: zbillster
on October 06, 2001 at 09:33:57.
leaks
Question:
Ok, finally made it to Madison WI (im a cheesehead now?) from Cali. My little red rice steamer made it in little over 2.5 days,
w/ two muts and a ball&chain (just joking) my wife. I was waiting for the car to give it up but it hummed the whole way =)
Now its raining quite a bit, and there is "THE LEAK"!!! I had forgotton all about it. Where does it come from, how do I stop it.
Its leaking into spare area, and from the moulding right above the rear passenger speaker. What to do???
And, what care tips can ya guys give me for the snow. I drove around the last day or two and see the rusting death
alot of cars are damend to. Some even on newer hondas (mid 90's). I hate to see my ride go to hell with weather conditions.
any help?
Thanks.
Answer:
Is this an Si? If so, water is coming in from:
1. a dried out gasket around the rear washer nozzle.
2. dried and cracked seam sealer around the hatch hinges.
3. clogged sunroof drain tubes is causing water to overflow the gasket around the sunroof pan.
If it's not an Si, then only #2 applies.
Other sources of water in trunk if not from overhead are:
1. worn out neoprene gaskets around the tail lenses.
2. dried out or cracked rubber gaskets around the 3 fasteners for the black triangles above rear turn signals.
3. leaking seal around sunroof (rear) drain tubes where they exit the rear fenders (Si only)
Posted by: Will Ng
on October 24, 2001 at 15:33:35.
What are 1G swap options?
Question:
Swaps for the 1Gen are a little trickier.
In any case, having the car be a Si to start with is a BIG PLUS
because you already have a car designed for fuel injection. The 84-
87 DX + others were carbureted.
If you do not have fuel injection already you need to:
1. Swap in the fuel injection system from a car that has it (pain)
2. Convert your new engine from fuel injection to carburetion (pain)
Ok so once we are past that point, what fits?
There are basically 3 classes of swaps.
1. Engines that bolt in.
-D15A? = stock 84-87 Si motor. Light, 1.5L, no power, no torque, no
point.
-D16A1 = Stock 86-87 Integra Engine. 1.6L 125HP, ? torque, not a bad
choice, particularly for forced induction due to relatively low
compression ratios and easy availability via junkyards. Needs axles
+ hubs from an integra too. Can use stock wiring + ecu, although not
recommended. IMHO easiest swap. See hybrid.honda-perf.org for help
with this one.
-D16A1 (2) = Stock 88-89 Integra Engine. 1.6L 130HP, ? torque, not a
bad choice either. I break this off from the above because it is
basically the same engine with marginally higher compression ratios
and DIFFERENT WIRING. Marginally more of a pain but still pretty
simple.
-BROWN VALVE COVER ZC- all the engine import shops can get their paws
on TWO ZCs. The black valve cover ZC is NOT THE ONE YOU WANT FOR
1Gen!!! USE BROWN VALVE COVER FOR 1GEN!!! The brown valve cover ZC
is basically a JDM equivalent of the USDM D16A1. Everything above
about D16A1s apply here. nippon-motors.com told me $495 for the
engine, no tranny or ECU. I got my tranny from a junked 'teg.
2. With an engine mount kit, serious amount of wiring, a new ECU you
can have:
-B16A1- 160HP, ?torque, Vtec, a nice choice period. JDM Civic SiR
engine. Fairly lightweight compared to stock engine. Easily
available from JDM engine importers, ~$500 for engine only, ~$900
engine/tranny/ecu, optional LSD tranny available for $250-500 extra.
With Hasport or Place Racing mounts, this thing will bolt up. It is
a much more involved swap then the D16/ZC, but you get a lot more
motor. Hasport can help with custom wiring harnesses if you aren't
feelin adventurous. Be prepared to spend more than the engine cost
you on mounts, axles, intermediate shafts, hub/knuckle assemblies,
and custom wiring harnesses. Even if you get junkyard parts, this is
still an expensive swap.
-B18B/B1-?HP, gobs of torque, non-vtec, decent amount of cash. Some
people report clearance problems necessitating a custom hood. Nice
engine for forced induction. Everything above about axles, etc
applies here. Wiring can be tricky.
-B17- ?HP, ?torque, cheap and rare B18C1 ish VTEC 1.7L engine. Nice
choice for people looking to get B18 torque w/o B18C prices. Wiring
easier compared to B18C1 + B18C5
-B18C1-170HP, 128ftlbs of torque. Integra GSR engine, 1.8L, Vtec,
Nice all round engine. Lacks the compression ratio and SERIOUS
performance internals of a B18C5, but normally can be had for several
thousand less. Think 2-3.5Grand for engine/tranny/ECU. Think hard
about wiring because this car needs a OBDI or OBII ECU, which is a
lot different from the wiring in a 1Gen.
-B18C5- ~200HP, gobs of torque. Integra Type R engine, 1.8L Vtec,
built to be driven. SERIOUS engine. SERIOUS price. Think $5000+
for JDM ITR engine/tranny/ECU. Serious wiring headache as above. If
you wanna be super cool, then this is the engine for you. BE
WARNED! I think hasport says the ITR tranny is incompatible with
their mount kit. Your mileage may vary, but if you are even
considering this swap you probably have enough money to burn you are
a sick lunatic.
-B20 / B20Vtec - ?HP, More torque than any other NA honda engine.
2.0L non-vtec. With a head swap, you have Vtec and a very powerful
engine. You can bolt B20s in to a 1G with the hasport mounts, and
the ehad swap is well documented elsewhere. expect to pay about
$1000 for a stock B20. Wiring probably will be somewhat of a
headache due to how new most of these engines are, but I haven't
really investigated this swap for the 1G (although I'm doing it for
my 2G rex)
3. You are insane and you can custom-fabricate mounts.
-H23 - one word. Why?
-H23/H22 head swap - two words: You're nuts!
-H22 - Well, if you don't feel like being able to steer the car due
to weight problems but you just have to have 2.2L of displacement and
torque, be my guest. I've seen pics of H22s stuffed into a 1G but
that really sounds scary to me. Good luck on the wiring too!
-Exotics. If you have money to burn, light it on fire. When you are
done, post pictures of how you stuffed a Chevy 502 into the engine
bay by welding a cage to the front end of your car.
Hope that helped a bit.
Here are some links that will help you much in your decisions:
-Engine specs thanks to hybird http://hybrid.honda-
perf.org/tech/engine.html
-1Gen Swaps with B series engines thanks to hasport
http://www.hasport.com/85-87si_B16_Swap_Outline.htm
-Nippon motors who consistently have brown valve cover ZC engines for
$495 http://www.nipponmotors.com
-Honda Motors online intermittently has brown valve cover ZC engines
and has REALLY good prices on B16s http://www.hondamotorsonline.com
Hope that helps.
peace
-Dave
Answer:
Swaps for the 1Gen are a little trickier.
In any case, having the car be a Si to start with is a BIG PLUS
because you already have a car designed for fuel injection. The 84-
87 DX + others were carbureted.
If you do not have fuel injection already you need to:
1. Swap in the fuel injection system from a car that has it (pain)
2. Convert your new engine from fuel injection to carburetion (pain)
Ok so once we are past that point, what fits?
There are basically 3 classes of swaps.
1. Engines that bolt in.
-D15A? = stock 84-87 Si motor. Light, 1.5L, no power, no torque, no
point.
-D16A1 = Stock 86-87 Integra Engine. 1.6L 125HP, ? torque, not a bad
choice, particularly for forced induction due to relatively low
compression ratios and easy availability via junkyards. Needs axles
+ hubs from an integra too. Can use stock wiring + ecu, although not
recommended. IMHO easiest swap. See hybrid.honda-perf.org for help
with this one.
-D16A1 (2) = Stock 88-89 Integra Engine. 1.6L 130HP, ? torque, not a
bad choice either. I break this off from the above because it is
basically the same engine with marginally higher compression ratios
and DIFFERENT WIRING. Marginally more of a pain but still pretty
simple.
-BROWN VALVE COVER ZC- all the engine import shops can get their paws
on TWO ZCs. The black valve cover ZC is NOT THE ONE YOU WANT FOR
1Gen!!! USE BROWN VALVE COVER FOR 1GEN!!! The brown valve cover ZC
is basically a JDM equivalent of the USDM D16A1. Everything above
about D16A1s apply here. nippon-motors.com told me $495 for the
engine, no tranny or ECU. I got my tranny from a junked 'teg.
2. With an engine mount kit, serious amount of wiring, a new ECU you
can have:
-B16A1- 160HP, ?torque, Vtec, a nice choice period. JDM Civic SiR
engine. Fairly lightweight compared to stock engine. Easily
available from JDM engine importers, ~$500 for engine only, ~$900
engine/tranny/ecu, optional LSD tranny available for $250-500 extra.
With Hasport or Place Racing mounts, this thing will bolt up. It is
a much more involved swap then the D16/ZC, but you get a lot more
motor. Hasport can help with custom wiring harnesses if you aren't
feelin adventurous. Be prepared to spend more than the engine cost
you on mounts, axles, intermediate shafts, hub/knuckle assemblies,
and custom wiring harnesses. Even if you get junkyard parts, this is
still an expensive swap.
-B18B/B1-?HP, gobs of torque, non-vtec, decent amount of cash. Some
people report clearance problems necessitating a custom hood. Nice
engine for forced induction. Everything above about axles, etc
applies here. Wiring can be tricky.
-B17- ?HP, ?torque, cheap and rare B18C1 ish VTEC 1.7L engine. Nice
choice for people looking to get B18 torque w/o B18C prices. Wiring
easier compared to B18C1 + B18C5
-B18C1-170HP, 128ftlbs of torque. Integra GSR engine, 1.8L, Vtec,
Nice all round engine. Lacks the compression ratio and SERIOUS
performance internals of a B18C5, but normally can be had for several
thousand less. Think 2-3.5Grand for engine/tranny/ECU. Think hard
about wiring because this car needs a OBDI or OBII ECU, which is a
lot different from the wiring in a 1Gen.
-B18C5- ~200HP, gobs of torque. Integra Type R engine, 1.8L Vtec,
built to be driven. SERIOUS engine. SERIOUS price. Think $5000+
for JDM ITR engine/tranny/ECU. Serious wiring headache as above. If
you wanna be super cool, then this is the engine for you. BE
WARNED! I think hasport says the ITR tranny is incompatible with
their mount kit. Your mileage may vary, but if you are even
considering this swap you probably have enough money to burn you are
a sick lunatic.
-B20 / B20Vtec - ?HP, More torque than any other NA honda engine.
2.0L non-vtec. With a head swap, you have Vtec and a very powerful
engine. You can bolt B20s in to a 1G with the hasport mounts, and
the ehad swap is well documented elsewhere. REMEMBER, THE STOCK
HEAD/INTAKE MANIFOLD WILL HAVE CLEARANCE PROBLEMS!!! expect to pay
about $1000 for a stock B20. Wiring probably will be somewhat of a
headache due to how new most of these engines are, but I haven't
really investigated this swap for the 1G (although I'm doing it for
my 2G rex)
3. You are insane and you can custom-fabricate mounts.
-H23 - one word. Why?
-H23/H22 head swap - two words: You're nuts!
-H22 - Well, if you don't feel like being able to steer the car due
to weight problems but you just have to have 2.2L of displacement and
torque, be my guest. I've seen pics of H22s stuffed into a 1G but
that really sounds scary to me. Good luck on the wiring too!
-Exotics. If you have money to burn, light it on fire. When you are
done, post pictures of how you stuffed a Chevy 502 into the engine
bay by welding a cage to the front end of your car.
Hope that helped a bit.
As for recommendations, I'd get a 86-87 Brown vavle cover for
simplicity or a tight budget for sure.
If you have a little more time, energy and patience, get some B-
series mounts. For forced induction, I'd definately get a B18A or
B20 (remember, you cannot run the stock B20 intake due to clearance
issues). For NA, I'd get a B16A1 with a LSD and do hella performance
upgrades before I got the B18C5 or even B18C3.
Here are some links that will help you much in your decisions:
-Engine specs thanks to hybrid
http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/engine.html
-1Gen Swaps with B series engines thanks to hasport
http://www.hasport.com/85-87si_B16_Swap_Outline.htm
-Nippon motors who consistently have brown valve cover ZC engines for
$495 http://www.nippon-motors.com
-Honda Motors online has brown valve cover ZC engines
and has REALLY good prices on B16s http://www.hondamotorsonline.com
Hope that helps.
peace
-Dave
Posted by: David Blundell
on November 17, 2001 at 18:57:06.
Exploded the diff............
Question:
Here is my problem. I am driving down the street today, and I am in first
gear. I am kinda getting on it when I hear this loud thud sound and feel
the car kinda lurch forward a bit. I try to take the car out of gear and
it won't move. However, the car is only coasting. It seems as if the
clutch is not engaging. I pull over to the side of the road to see if
maybe my clutch cable broke or something. I have a friend push the clutch
in and out and it looks like the cable is moving. Everytime he lets the
clutch out it makes a strange noise from inside the tranny.
I look down at the axle on the passanger side and it seems to be moving a
little bit on its own. I have him try to take the car out of gear and it
still won't budge. It does apear that the shift linkage does move a litte
though.
I get under the car and see a big puddle of tranny fluid on the ground.
It appears to be comming out of where the clutch is. I have an ACT
extreme pressure plate with a 6 puck disk. I know a lot of people have
had a lot of problems with them, but the oil throughs me off.
What do you guys think? Is it going to be the clutch, tranny, or both. I
urgently need to know so I can try to get the parts this weekend (yeah, I
know, good luck right).
Thanks,
Damion
Answer:
I've got 4 trannys laying here because of it. Two were from me
racing, the other two are CRX trannys from other folk.
When this......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/good%20pin.jpg]
get worn out and looks like this.....
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/bad%20pin.jpg]
tranny go BOOM!
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/tranny%20boom.jpg]
Here is why.......
On 88-91 trannys the pinion cross shaft is NOT hardened. Therefore it
wears thourgh till it breaks. The 92+ cross shafts are hardened,
notice the black color.
The two CRX trannys that exploded, the cross shaft wore through and
allowed the gears inside the diff to get loose. There is NO room for
them and the get in a tight spot where they don't fit, exploding the
trannys case.
The two 5g trannys I exploded, the side gears failed. Teeth sheared
off and even split one of the gears. But the pin still held fast. The
good pin is from my second exploded tranny.
Hope this is all clear. If not, just ask away.
BTW I'm AutoFAGing this.
Posted by: Mista Bone
on November 23, 2001 at 03:24:12.
BCPR7E-11
Question:
Hello guys,
Sorry in advance, I know this question has been answered before, but I'm
not able to find any info regarding it: :-/ I'm looking to purchase a
set of NGK sparkplugs one heat range colder than stock. The stock part
number is: BCPR6E-11. Am I correct in my assumption that BCPR7E-11 is the
next colder step? Or is it the 11 that should have one added to it? I'm
asking because after going to 4 different parts store none of the guys
behind the counter knew anything of their plugs other than the price.
Thanks guys,
Ryan P.
Answer:
is one step colder. The -11 at then end means 1.1 mm gap.
Entire breakdown of the plug code......
B = 14 mm thread diameter
C = 5/8" hex
P = projected insulator type
R = resistor type
6 or 7 = heat range, 2 being hottest, 11 being coldest
E = 19 mm thread reach
11 = plug gap of 1.1 mm
I just happen to have a NGK 1999 Master Catalog laying around.
BTW this is now AutoFAQed
Posted by: Mista Bone
on December 02, 2001 at 10:13:30.
Just AutoFAQing.......n/m
Question:
Si tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-3000.jpg]
STD tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-A100.jpg]
88 no markings (Si)
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-XXXX.jpg]
The DX has a PL3-A000 casting I believe. Kinda hard to get a pic as it is
installed in car.
Answer:
hehe
haha
hoho
Posted by: Mista Bone
on December 06, 2001 at 23:14:06.
Re: CRX tranny ID pics.............I need help
Question:
Si tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-3000.jpg]
STD tranny.......
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-A100.jpg]
88 no markings (Si)
[Image http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/Pics2/PL3-XXXX.jpg]
The DX has a PL3-A000 casting I believe. Kinda hard to get a pic as it is
installed in car.
Answer:
im have a lot of probs with my 91 Si going through 2 clutch in 10,000
miles and evertime i change the release spring is broke. Both Honda
many shops said they have never seen a spring break before and it was
brought to my attention to make sure it was an Si trans. The number
on mine is a PL3/9000. So is this even an Si trans or what. I need
help ASAP, so if you know i would appreciate it. thanks
Posted by: timmaayy
on December 09, 2001 at 11:17:39.
how much for the spring
Question:
I have a set of shift forks missing the 1-2 fork that I could see cheap. It has all the other forks, sliders, balls, and springs installed.
Interested?
Randy
Answer:
how much for the spring and where are you, email me back asap
Posted by: timmaayy
on December 09, 2001 at 11:27:51.
Re: CRX wont start, alt. still good, so is batt.????
Question:
Car seems fine after jump even for a day or two. But when I let it sit, it seems the battery is somewhat dead
or just not enough oomff to start up. So confused. Just had honda replace alt. a few months back, and battery checked
today, and it was fine too. Is there somthing else?? Also cleaned posts too. Need a CRX Guru to shed some light.
Thanks,
Damien.
Answer:
I work for interstate battery and if youve put in cheap battery and
it works fine until you let it sit the batt might just have a
surface charge. Thats what Advance or Auto Zone basiclly do when they
say they can charge it in an hour. A surface charge is a charge in
the battery that will not hold which can occur after jumpin off and
just letting it run. Regardless of what people say thats not enough
unless the battery wasnt severly drained. Id say go somewhere and
have the battery properly load tested. If a cell bubbles with a
heavy load its bad. email me if you got any questions
Posted by: timmaayy
on December 09, 2001 at 11:34:52.
Not without a lot of hassle (can be done).
Question:
I have access to all of the components, just wanting to know if they will
work.
Answer:
I installed '88 belts on a '91 Si. There are several problems which make the job difficult. 1) Honda removed the weldnuts from the
B-pillars. These tapped holes are what the D-rings that the belts slides over mount into. The hole for the weldnut is still in the
sheetmetal, as is the pocket down lower that the single retractor reel bolts into. To use the '88 belts, you have to fabricate a tapped
block and maneuver it up inside the hollow B-pillar and into position. Definitely a PITA, but can be done (I did). Also, you will have to
snap off the filler cap that covers the slot at the top of both interior panels so the seatbelt web can pass inside, and make a hole in
each upper panel to pass the D-ring mounting stud. 2) Honda removed the two driver's-side bodypan mounts (again, weldnuts) that
are used to anchor the seatbelt and buckle to the floor. The two passenger's-side mounts ARE still there- they are used for mounting
an infant seat on that side. Unlike the '89-up seats and rails, the '88 buckle attaches to the floor pan, not the seat (and the newer
buckle will not engage with the older seatbelt blade). You will have to drill holes in the bodypan to pass the mounting hardware bolts
through so they may be fastened on the other side. You could use a self-locking nut and a fender washer (to prevent pull-through by
increasing contact area), or do what I did- fabricate a threaded block, locating it under the drilled hole. I also suggest covering the
block or nut with undercoating after installation to prevent corrosion (it will be exposed to the air slipstream and any water under the
car). 3) The '88 inner door panels are not 100% interchangeable with the '89-'91. The upper edge is longer (smaller end pillar on the
'88 design), and about 25% of the attachment prongs will not line-up with the newer door configuration. You CAN make the panel
work, but it's a little ghetto. You will also have to remove the hat-shaped latch from the doorsill plate to use the '88 panels. Note that
when you remove the two retractor reels from each door, one set of wires on the driver's-side will have to be jumped to keep the
seatbelt warning from going-off (don't remember which). I do suggest that you open-up the pod above the rearview mirror and unplug
the module inside. This will kill the two "seatbelt unfastened" warning lights.
Posted by: crxsquared
on December 14, 2001 at 08:53:10.
Well, I'm no Corky Bell, but
Question:
Ok, after reading many of the other posts (mainly in response to Chris
Storie's posts below) I have a bunch of questions:
1. Is bigger always better? obviously there is going to be a point of
diminishing returns. Is there a way to calculate where it will be?
2. Does anyone know the pressure drop of some (RELATIVELY) common
intercoolers? Like maybe: Starion, saab 9000, volvo 240/740, Audi 5000,
Dodge daytona shelby, Grand National, MkIII Supra, MKIV Supra, 90-95MR2,
96-00 JDM MR2...
3. What about efficiency of air cooling? Intercoolers seem to come in all
shapes and sizes. Some, like the MkIV Supra seem to be kinda block
shaped. Some, like the Saab 9000 offer a huge surface area but are still
pretty skinny. How does geometry affect efficiency? Do things like
internal diameter matter more?
4. Aside from cooling the air and helping to prevent detonation, what
other effects do intercoolers have? Does the extra piping length increase
lag? Is this worth worrying about? Do intercoolers themselves increase
lag? What other negative effects do intercoolers have on a turbo system?
5. How does the choice of piping affect performance? What options are
avail? What is cheapest? What performs best? Pro/con/why?
Is there a web page that talks about all this shit? Or a book?
If you feel you can write a beautiful work of art on this subject, please
feel free to autofaq.
TIA
Answer:
I did read his book. Here's what I remember off the top of my head:
1.) NO, bigger is not always better. And just having an intercooler
is not always better than not having one. There are calculations
(see Maximum Boost) to determine the right size for your
application. If you threw in an intercooler that can support 1000
cfm, and you only run about 250 cfm, you'll have some major lag. And
the extra cooling from that monster intercooler will yield little
benefit, especially since there is a lower limit to how cool your
intake charge can get. Theoritically, it's the same as the ambient
temperature. In practice, it's never that low.
2.) Not off the top of my head. And it's really a function of boost
pressure and the entire system design. There's really no good
calculation for this, measurement before and after is the best
technique.
3.) Efficiency is a function primarily of the surface area of the
heat exchanger. The more surface area exposed to the oncoming air,
the more heat will be exchanged. This is of course assuming that the
oncoming air has a clear path or is ducted to and from the
intercooler and that no major heat sources are present too close to
the intercooler. Internal sizes (thickness, height, and number of
the air flow chambers) relate primarily to the flow capibilities.
4.) Yes, the intercooler's primary job is to remove the added heat
from the intake charge caused by the turbo. This makes the engine
run cooler and the intake charge to be more dense, promoting a safer
and more powerful engine/turbo system. The cost of the intercooler
is the potential pressure drop and lag. Lag is due to the extra
volume that has to be filled before the intake manifold sees the
boost pressure. Depending on how your charge piping is run, the
intercooler may only be a minor part of that extra volume. So
designing the system so that the charge piping is shorter would have
greater impact than changing the size of the intercooler. Typically,
the added benefits of an intercooler out weigh the additional lag.
5.) For best performance, you want mandrel bent piping, sized
appropriately for the amount of airflow you need to support, with as
smooth as possible transitions between solid and flexible piping. If
the piping is too oversized, you will unnecessarily be adding more
volume to the system (contributing to lag). If it's undersized, you
will have more flow losses in the piping. Cheapest would probably be
crush bent steel piping. However, I would definetely recommend at
least getting mandrel bent sections, it's not much more expensive.
Best performance would probably be custom mandrel bent sections
designed to have the minimum amount of connections and transitions
(ideally, a solid piece between the turbo and intercooler, and then a
solid piece from intercooler to TB, but that may not be possible
given installation issues).
Hope that helps. I'll AutoFAQ this, although I'm not quite sure it's
AutoFAQ worthy.
On a side note, where would I go to find all the AutoFAQed posts? I
don't see them in the FAQ.
Gary
Posted by: GJC
on December 18, 2001 at 13:50:39.
Some physics ... (long but mostly correct answer)
Question:
In the summer here in UK we get inlet temps to intercooler of up to
90-110 degrees ond outlet temps of 50-60 with air/air
One of our guys has an air/water giving just 28 degress at the
throttle body
Mark
Answer:
Its all noble gas law stuff. Think physics/chemistry. Just remember
that these calculations will give you the IDEAL gas temperature. The
efficiency rating of a compressor at a given pressure/speed is
basically an idea of how much EXTRA heat the compressor will add.
I.E. 100% efficiency = warms air no more than ideal conditions.
----IDEAL CALCS----
PV = NRT
P = pressure (atmospheric = about 14 psi)
V = volume
N = number of moles of gas
R = noble gas constant (just a number - does not change)
T = temperature in KELVIN (celsius +273)
With a little massaging we get:
P/T = NR/V
N, R and V are staying relatively constant so we can come up with:
P1/T1 = P2/T2
olpressure divided by old temperature = new pressure / new temperature
For a quick + dirty correction for turbo efficiency, multiply the
final temperature you get by 1+(100-efficiency/100). Get the
efficiency from a compressor map or guess at 60% to be safe.
In case your algebra sucks, here is an example.
We are at sea level, atmospheric pressure 14.7psi. Ambient
temperature is 25 Centigrade. (DO NOT WORK IN FARENHEIT FOR THESE
CALCS) We are running 8psi of boost. What is the charge air
temperature assuming a turbocharger efficiency of 68% and all air for
the compressor is being drawn from outside the engine compartment at
25degrees? (to compensate for a CAI on the compressor instead of
outsude air, substitute temperature of air pre-compressor for T1)
Atmospheric = 14.7psi
Boost = +8psi
Total pressure under boost = 22.7psi
25degrees C = 273 +25 Kelvin = 298 Kelvin
14.7 / 298 Kelvin = 22.7psi / T2
(multiply both sides by T2, multiply both sides by 298K, divide by
14.7 psi)
T2 = 298K * 22.7 / 14.7
T2 = 460K
460K is our IDEAL charge air temperature
460K * 1+(100-68/100)
460K * 1+(32/100)
460K * 1.32
607K is our charge air temperature SOMEWHAT corrected for compressor
efficiency.
607K-273K = 334 Celsius *9/5+32 = 633Farenheit
Wow. See why you need an intercooler?
Hope that helps. Consult Maximum Boost by Corky Bell or a
physics/chemistry textbook if you need a slower explanation.
Posted by: David Blundell
on January 12, 2002 at 08:40:09.
dont mind me...
Question:
By the time I see a post worth a good reply it's inches from the bottom
of the board. I just don't see the point in ranting if nobody gets to read
it...
There are a few reasons to use nitrous with a turbo:
1) elimination of turbo lag - boost in a bottle doesn't take very long to
hit.
2) Intercooler assistance - the turbo's intake charge isn't heated by the
heat transfer from the exhaust side (as so many supercharger fans seem to
think), it's the heat of compression. Nitrous works the other way around,
it goes from very high pressure to relativly low pressure and comes out
very cold.
3) Power - the limiting factor in power production (asside from the
mechanical strenght of the motor's own components) is the amount of air
fuel mixture burned. Nitrous has three times the O2 that air has, pushing
three atmospheres of boost is unrealistic, but one atmosphere with some
nitrous added sounds realistic to me.
There are also reasons to use a turbo with nitrous:
1) I've searched long and hard for the endless nitrous tank, I've come to
the conclusion it doesn't exist. Nitrous is great for spooling the turbo or
adding more O2 than the turbo alone can supply, but it's not a steady
statee solution. Nitrous alone is good for a very limited time, nitrous +
turbo is fun for the whole day.
2) At some point you're going to show up at an event and they tell you to
pull the blue bottle - then what? You're stuck in D mod with a car that has
all the power of show stock, and the guy with the 930 is pointing and
laughing.
3) Does the term "street legal" mean anything to you?
OK, now to get around to explaining the design of a good system. There
are a number of types of set-ups for different types of driving. I tend to
ignore the drag racing designs, but there is something to learn about top
end which can be applied to a streetable system.
The first component to look at is the turbo - the primary source of
forced induction, also by far the more complex of the two installations
(even on my car). There are two parameters to turbo lag, what goes on from
the exhaust side, and what's between the compressor and the throttle body.
The volume between the compressor and throttle body needs to be minimized
if you're to have any hope of getting good throttle response and minimal
turbo lag - this should be easy to understand. What happens at the hot
side of the turbo is more tunable, but less understood by most. Let's
oversimplify it and say that the ignition timing is fixed. If it's always
advanced there will be decent power without boost, but the turbo will spool
slowly. If the timing is retarded (pushed back that is...) the turbo will
spool faster, but there will be very little power before the boost levels
pick up. This is due to the point at which the thermal expansion starts and
finishes. If the spark is advanced the thermal expansion will start
somewhere near TDC, and by the time the exhaust valve opens it will have
finished. If the spark hits late the thermal expansion starts mid stroke
and there is still expansion going on when the exhaust valves open, which
causes greater pressure in the exhust and causes the turbo to spool. It's a
trade-off, power in the power stroke or power past the power stroke where
it can be used to spool the turbo. Most well thought out turbos try to
find some middle ground between the two. Using a boost activated timing
module to retard timing, most systems offer decent pedal response with a
progressive rise to the boost pressure - not bad, but it could be better.
One step better would be to add a vacuum advance, this way small changes in
throttle angle below where boost would kick in have quicker response. The
best of all worlds would be if somehow the timing could remain advanced but
the thermal expansion could last longer than the full stroke, but that only
happens if you can get much more fuel mixture in, which requires boost -
boost gets more boost, but where do you get instant boost?
The blue bottle is instant chemical boost on demand. It can be used a
number of ways for intercooling, spooling the turbo or just addiing top end
power. For spooling you need to introduce the nitrous as a gas, which means
it needs volume to expand and boil. There are elaborate individual port
nitrous manifolds to do this (three that I know of), but it would be almost
as quick to inject the nitrous upstream where it could boil to a gas before
entering the intake manifold. This has a couple of positive features.
First, it's as simple as it gets - under open throttle when there is turbo
lag most fueling systems overcompensate and the A/F ratio spikes (which
goes along with some nice plug fouling). The addition of a little nitrous
(single fogger, like that of an NOS Sneaky Pete system) can fill the void
between the good throttle response down low and the time that the boost
builds. That same small flow of nitrous is good for a double digit
temperature drop at the intake which translates to real torque in the
midrange. If you're looking for top end power you stop looking at feeding
the nitrous upstream and look at an individual injector system at the
manifold, but there are concerns about running both boost and nitrous
together. First, there is the concern that fuel doesn't remain suspended,
and that the break down of nitrous oxide into nitrogen and oxegen will
leave the cylinders with nothing to burn but the tops of the pistons. There
is a limit to how much fuel mixture you can cram into a piston, beyond that
the only power to be gained is in exact control of conditions. At the very
top end ignition timing control is the key - as advanced as possible
without detonation is the goal. Using just lots of boost doesn't work
because of the heat build-up causing preignition during the compression
stroke. Using pure nitrous works well for two reasons, first there's no
heat build-up, second the bonded nitrogen acts as a buffer during most of
the compression stroke (nitrous oxide seperates out at high
pressure/temperature, before that the oxegen isn't avalale to burn - idiots
who use pure oxegen just wind up blowing up). There are two down sides to
pure nitrous use for top end. First, it doesn't last very long, second it's
not cheap. The trick is in fueling for outragous abounts of boost, but
replacing some of that boost with nitrous injection at the intake runners.
This means building a pressure limiter (much like a bypass regulator) on
the intake and bringing the power up beyond that point using the nitrous.
Using a multi-stage nitrous system plus the jet upstream it's possible to
make an alomst seemless throttle response from idle to more than twice the
stock output of the motor, without needing to stop at the local speed shop
for a refill every day.
My own system uses a single boost limiter at the inlet side of the
air-water intercooler. It's an electronicly controlled rising rate unit
which is set from 8 PSI starting to an adjustable point cut-off with an
electronic lock-out. My nitrous system has two direct port stages with an
expansion chamber for stage 1 (not exactly what you see under the hood of
most cars) The expansion chamber allows me to run direct port nitrous
injection at a much lower RPM without fear of pooling in the cylinders - I
HATE turbo lag. Under heavy throttle the boost will build to the cut-off
point (adjustable from the center console with an allen key), then the
boost limiter's electronic lock-out will open and the first stage nitrous
kicks in. The drop in boost pressure and the NOS jetting have been
calculated to be about the same, so I don't notice the change in power.
From there the rising rate bypass restricts the release of boost pressure
'till it reaches the cut-off point again (pretty damn quickly I might add).
The electronic lock-out then trips again while the second nitrous stage
fires, and the cycle repeats at a higher level. If I were drag racing the
car I would consider running stage 1, then stage 2, then stage 1+2, but
without a gearing change that would be pointless. The big advantage to
this system is the seamless flow of power. Do you remember all those scenes
in the Fat and the Curious where they hit the NOS button and got instantly
pulled back into their seats (the ones with too much padding and no
harnesses)? Try that in a turn some time - hello Mr. wall... The goal of
my design was simple, a small
Answer:
im just auto faqing this post
Posted by: gino fultano
on February 01, 2002 at 12:47:30.
why hasnt anyone autofaqued this yet?
Answer:
blah
Posted by: tyson
on February 01, 2002 at 16:37:44.
Re: LSD's
Question:
Phantom Grip = Junk.
OPM - Supposedly a better execution of the Phantom Grip principal.
Still not a "real" LSD.
Kazz - Clutch type. I've driven one. They are good quality.
Quaife - Torsen type. I own one. It rocks.
If you want quality, then your only real decision is clutch type or
torsen. Once you decide that, get the Kazz or Quaife accordingly.
The Kazz used to be cheaper, but now they are close to the same
price, except for some "clearance" applications where the Quaife is
cheaper. For my car the Quaife was $695 and the Kazz was $950. That
wasn't why I got the Quaife though. For autocrossing, I think the
Quaife is better. Additionally, my bud Brett Howell (FSP National
Champion) has the Kazz, and said he would have gotten the quaife if
he could have afforded it. It was $1195 when he bought. The Kazz is
obviously suiting him just fine though.
You can debate for months on which to get (trust me, I did), but
either will be so much better than OEM, that you can't really go
wrong.
Answer:
Thought maybe this should be FAQ'd
Posted by: Dave Hardy
on February 10, 2002 at 22:15:31.
How long has it been since you've bled the
brakes and adjusted the rear drums? I would bleed the brakes then
adjust the rears. (The instructions on how to bleed are basically
covered in the AutoFAQ by Mista Bone.) To see if you need to adjust
the rears, loosen the lugnuts, jack the rear of the car up off the
ground (Properly chalking up the front tires with something), and
then take the rims off. Try to move the drums by hand. There should
be a LITTLE drag with the e-brake disengaged. (That's important!) If
they spin freely, you need to adjust them. If you can hear them
scraping inconsistently, you might want to have your drums turned and
put on new shoes. Then you can adjust everything properly.
If you don't have any inconsistent grabing, but the drums are too
easy to turn by hand You need to adjust them drums. Loosen up the e-
brake cables. (Remove the plastic cover on the back e-brake handle,
and uses a 12mm wrench to loose the line. Loosen it up as far as you
can go.) Find an empty parking lot, or use a side street that is NOT
busy. Put the car in reverse, and floor it. SLAM on the brakes. Do
this a couple times. This is supposed to move the self adjusters on
the rear. If that doesn't help (you should be able to tell if the
brakes feel better), you need to take the drums off and take out the
self adjusters and make sure they aren't frozen. This has happened to
almost every honda I've worked on. Refer to your shop manual on how
to get everything apart. One trick to getting the drums off is to use
a bolt that is the same size and thread as the thing that holds down
the spare. There are two holes in the drums. If you get two bolts,
thread them into the holes, and that will get the drums off. If you
have to, you can use a large flatblade screw driver to pray the drums
off. Take everything out and clean it. Inspect the shoes for uneven
wear and the drums for obvious pits, lines, bumbs, etc. Teh self
adjusters are made of two clevis', one that fits inside the other. If
the sides don't spin freely, get a vice grip and lock it onto on
side, and get another or a pair of pliers and spin them free. Clean
them up and put some anti seize compound on them. This will prevent
them from seizing again. Reassemble everything after replacing any
bits and pieces that need to replaced. Once you get the hand of it,
you can change everything in the drum assembly in less than an hour
for both sides. (At least I can. I've had mine apart too often! heh
=Ŝ)
If after bleeding and checking the rears the brakes still are not
satisfactory, you might have a caliper that is siezing, or possibly a
rubber line has collapsed internally. Rebuilt calipers aren't too
expensive. I've found a place that you can get Goodridge Stainless
Steel lines for 99.95 shipped. (For an 89 Si, at least)
http://morepowerracing.com
That's a darn good price. $10 less than
anywhere else I've found. I haven't bought a set yet, but I will as
soon as I can afford it.
As for the Master Cylinder, you can test to see if it's going bad by
letting teh car idle and pumping the brakes to build up pressure.
Then, STAND on them. Put all your weight onto them and if the pedal
sinks to the floor, then you need to replace the MC. Bench bleed
accoring to Mista Bone in the autoFAQ, attach the lines. Bleed again,
and you should be all set.
I hope this helps. Remember to have fun working on your car!
Re: how to find TDC on Si?
Question:
replacing distributer...
Answer:
there is a white marking on the crankshaft pulley, slightly spaced
after three red ones, line that up visually with the small pointed
tab and V on the belt cover, by rotating the crankshaft pulley
(either use a wrench on the pulley bolt or rolling the car in gear).
then check to see if the camshaft pulley is in line by seeing if the
lower line is aligned with the pointer on the plastic. you need only
remove the top timing belt cover to do all this(but you gotta loosen
the valve cover to get it off, which is why i leave the top timing
belt cover off all the time)
tyson
[Image http://24.95.142.82:6080/manual/2gsm/images/91-6-26.jpg]
Posted by: tyson
on February 21, 2002 at 14:56:03.
I'll autofaq this
Question:
As obviously most of us like to accomplish things by ourselves and save
money, here is one way to save a lot of money. Depending on the shape of
your cars body, this can usually be done in a weekend.
Step 1: Car Preparation
To have the final job look good, this is an important part. The body
doesn't need to be sanded down to metal, but this can be done. What I
have done on all my paint jobs is sand the whole car down with 240 grit to
get down into the paint past the clear. Then work way to 600 grit. You
don't want to get the surface too smooth so the paint has something to
stick too. This is the point where if there is any body rust or dents to
fix them. Usually light rust spots can be removed with disk sander untill
you reach shinny metal. If this goes very deep, most likely you will need
to use some body filler to bring the surface back to smooth, but I don't
want to jump into body work, as this could take up a whole write up
itself. Once the entire body is sanded and flat, you are ready for paint
to tape off. There will be a lot of paint dust over the car, so I suggest
taching before you tape and also tach again right before you paint.
Step 2: Taping off
This is pretty simple. There are a few routes to take. You can get rolls
of taping paper to cover the car, or the less expensive newspaper
technique. Just make sure if you use newspaper that ALL seams are taped
with now opens that paint being sprayed can enter. Remember that the
paint is traveling with some pressure and if there are any opening, it
will find a way in there. You can use special taping off masking tape
that is wider and provides stick without leaving any sticky residue. On
the crx you can take off a lot of the moldings so you get behind them and
don't see and color differences along seems. The rear window moldings can
be removed and the rain gutter molding can also be taken out. Remember to
cover wheels and headlights and the such. Things like the hood can be
removed and painted separately if desired. Although it is illegal to
paint outside of a controlled environment, people still do it. But to
keep things clean, make sure the garage or area you are doing it in is as
dust free as possible and you can put up tarps to keep air flow to a
minimum around the car.
Step 3: Getting the Paint
Most larger cities will have some sort of wholesale automotive specialty
paint supplier. The one where I live has a great selection, and uses
DuPont products. Luckily since the CRX is such a small car and lots of
window area, it doesn't take a whole lot of paint to cover the car. You
will need three things.
1. Primer, which comes in two types: sandable and nonsandable. The
sandable sprays a little thicker which is good for a body that may have
some inperfections which it will fill better and once you primer you can
sand down. The nonsandable prays thinner which is good for a body that is
already in good shape and will not require sanding after the primer. The
primer comes in two parts, the actual primer and its activator. They come
together in a package which I think comes in a quart. This will cost
somewhere between $40-$50. Also primer comes in different color levels
(grays to blacks). The employees there will match you with a primer that
will work well with your base.
2. Base Coat. The base is what the color of the car will come out as.
The store will have a huge book of every paint code from any vehicle with
little cards that display the color. I think it is easier to pick from
one of these rather than to do a custom color, but if you want a custom
color, you can bring in a sample of the color from paper or anything and
they can match it. The prices of base very on the make up of the color.
Some paints include metallics and pearls, which will cost a little more.
As for the amount of base to purchase, I think that 1 1/2 quarts should
work well. 1 1/2 quarts actually makes 3 quarts since you mix the base
with base activator in a 1:1 ratio. The base and base activator will cost
anywhere from $70-$150 depending on amount and type of color.
3. Clear Coat. There is basically only one option for clear that you
have. The clear also uses an activator. But with the clear, it will
needed to be mixed in a 4:1 ratio, being 4 parts clear to 1 part
activator. When mixing clear make sure you just mix enough for the can
you are praying with. Because the clear activates a lot faster than
either of the other 2. You will be able to use the clear once activated
for about 45 min. You will probably only need 2 quarts or less of clear,
but I bought a gallon size since it costs less per quart if you get the
full size, plus I paint a lot and use it up. I think the gallon of clear
and activator cost around $70 or less.
Step 4: Painting
Now that the car is taped off and ready to paint, you will need some tools
to do the painting. You will need a paint gun. Paint guns range from $50-
$500+. But you will be fine with the $60 gun from menards or the auto
stores or even the paint store will have them. They have gravity feed
guns and tank resevor guns. Either will work fine. You will also need an
air compressor and hose. A larger compressor tank will be better since
you probably will start to lose pressure with a smaller tank due to
constant spraying. Pressure should be regulated to 35-40psi You can use
fancy regulators and line regulaters, but I didn't. Also make sure you
don't have condensation problems in the lines, it can cause some running.
Also have a can of paint thinner on hand to clean parts between primer,
base, and clear coats. Make sure you have a mask too, this paint is not
very friendly to the lungs and eyes. Now its time to paint. The best
conditions to paint are when air temperatures are around 65-75 F. And try
to pick a day with low humidity. As high humidity can cause orange peal
(looks like surface of basketball) So don't pick a day where it is
raining outside. Painting process should go as follows:
- Primer car with 2-3 thin coats waiting 15 min inbetween coats
Mix Primer in 1:1 ratio with activator
If you plan on sanding primer, wait a few hours before sanding
- Base Coat will be next with 3-4 coats, so that the car looks even in
color. Also waiting 15 min inbetween coats. Wait 20 min before clear.
- Clear Coat should be again around 2-4 coats, the more you put on, the
more you can polish off after you are done. Usually 3 is the best
number. Wait again 15 inbetween coats. Once completed wait 24 hours
before doing anything with the surface.
When painting with the gun, keep the gun always spraying directly
perpendicular to the surface. Keep the gun about 12 inches from the
surface and move with a smooth motion across the whole panels surface.
Start from one end and go all the way to the other end. Don't start in
the middle and DON'T spray the gun in one spot for a period of time. This
will cause runs with are BAD. Most likely if you get a bad run you will
have to wait for car to completely dry and sand it down and then
continue. So completely paint the whole car with a coat and wait 15 min
till you start again. It will be nice to have friends help to prepare
paint when the gun starts to run out. Remember not to mix too much at one
time because the activator will start to run out. Both the primer and
base coat activator times are around 2 hours and clear is about 45 min.
The primer coat is very easy to do and will help you become comfortable
with the gun without being able to mess up really. When doing the base
coat, make sure that you cover the car uniformly, so the whole thing looks
the same tone. Have good lighting so you can see details. Remember when
mixing clear that it changes to a 4:1 ratio.
Step 5: Polishing
Now that the car is dry after around 12-24 hours of drying you are ready
to polish. This can be hard to master, but you can always take a car to a
profeshional to get polished. They sell special velcro polishing pads at
the paint store to use with 5 or 7 rotary sanders and compound to polish
the car. If you do deside on doing it yourself, remember to always keep
the pad wet with compount, don't want dry pad on surface. Don't put too
much pressure on the pad. Work in sections and just keep moving across
the panel. I am not very good at this, but had a friend help me on this,
so I don't have a whole lot of details on what to do.
Goodluck with the process, it may seem kinda scary at first, but once you
get going its pretty fun. Have a good time with it and stay safe, use
masks. If you have any more question on things that I probably missed,
please post or write me an email. Hear is the page of my crx through the
past 2 years of sitting in the garage and the process.
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~ajross/crx.htm
Answer:
blah
Posted by: Tyson
on February 23, 2002 at 04:19:31.
Re: You are God n/m
Question:
It all depends on what mods you have done to the engine, what kind of driving you do and
what your goals are for the car. Since you didn't mention any of that the following
should help you figure it out.
The engine is like an air pump; the more air that is
allowed to flow through it, the more horsepower that you get out of it. In other words,
if you have a free-flowing air intake and exhaust system in your average vehicle,
youll get more horsepower because of the efficient flow of air into and out of the
engine. Fuel requires air to burn and thus to produce energy. The more air that is
available for combustion will also improve efficiency otherwise known as gas
mileage.
Relation Between Performance and Air Flow
Components that
influence airflow into the engine are the:
air filter
intake air piping
mass
air sensor (if applicable)
throttle body or carburetor
intake
manifold
camshaft
intake port and valve of cylinder heads
turbo's
compression, section, and supercharger (if applicable)
Components that
influence airflow out of the engine are the:
exhaust valve and exhaust ports of
the cylinder heads
camshafts
exhaust manifolds
turbo's turbine (if
applicable)
exhaust tubing
catalytic converters
muffler
When these
components are modified to increase flow out of the engine, pumping losses are
reduced. Pumping losses refer to the amount of horsepower (HP) used to push the
exhaust gases out of the cylinders on the engine's exhaust stroke. Since less HP is
used to get the exhaust out of the engine, more horsepower is available at the
flywheel. An added benefit of reducing pumping losses is that fuel mileage will also
increase.
No matter how much additional air is forced into the engine, no
additional HP will be made unless additional fuel is also added. The energy that makes
HP in an engine comes from the combustion of the fuel, not only the air. In general,
every two HP produced requires one pound of fuel per hour. When modifications are
performed that increase airflow into the engine, more air is available for the
combustion of fuel. The combustion of the additional fuel is what translates into
additional HP.
Air flow is not just influenced by the size (area) of the paths it
takes into and out of the engine. It is also influenced by the speed at which it
moves.
Specific Port Flow (cubic meter/sec) = Flow Velocity (m/s) x Average Path
Area (m2)
Whenever an engine modification increases the average area of the
airflow paths into and out of an engine, there is a chance the velocity of the flow will
decrease. Most of the time the factor of velocity decrease is very small compared to
the area increased, so flow is generally increased. If modifications are taken too
far, the velocity will decrease more than the area increases, so flow is adversely
affected (example - four inch exhaust system on a 1.6 liter engine).
In the
following section, we will analyze the components of an exhaust system in a car and how
air flows from the engine to the outside environment.
Analysis of the
Exhaust System in an Average Car
The above is a diagram of the major
components of an exhaust system in a car. Exhaust system components are designed for a
specific engine. The pipe diameter, component length, catalytic converter size,
muffler size, and exhaust manifold design are engineered to provide proper exhaust
flow, silencing, and emission levels on a particular engine. In this section, I will
go over the function and specifics of each component.
The Exhaust
Manifold
The exhaust manifold is a pipe that conducts the exhaust gases from
the combustion chambers to the exhaust pipe. Many exhaust manifolds are made from
cast iron or nodular iron. Some are made from stainless steel or heavy-gauge steel. The
exhaust manifold contains an exhaust port for each exhaust port in the cylinder head,
and a flat machined surface on this manifold fits against a matching surface on the
exhaust port area in the cylinder head.
Some exhaust manifolds have a gasket
between the manifold and the cylinder head, as can be seen in the diagram
below:
Exhaust manifold and gasket on an in-line engine
Gaskets are
meant to prevent leakage of air/gases between the manifold and cylinder heads. The
gaskets are usually made out of copper, asbestos-type material, or paper. In other
applications, the machined surface fits directly against the matching surface on
the cylinder head. The exhaust passages from each port in the manifold join into a
common single passage before they reach the manifold flange. An exhaust pipe is
connected to the exhaust manifold flange. On a V-type engine an exhaust manifold is
bolted to each cylinder head.
The Exhaust Pipe (In-line)/ "Y" Pipe (V-
type)
The exhaust pipe is connected from the exhaust manifold to the
catalytic converter. On in-line engines the exhaust pipe is a single pipe, but on V-type
engines the exhaust pipe is connected to each manifold flange, and these two pipes are
connected into a single pipe under the rear of the engine. This single "Y" pipe is then
attached to the catalytic converter. Exhaust pipes may be made from stainless steel
or zinc-plated steel, and some exhaust pipes are double-walled. In some exhaust
systems, an intermediate pipe is connected between the exhaust pipe and the
catalytic converter. Some have a heavy tapered steel or steel composition sealing
washer positioned between the exhaust pipe flange and the exhaust manifold flange.
Other exhaust pipes have a tapered end that fits against a ball-shaped surface on the
exhaust manifold flange. Bolts or studs and nuts retain the exhaust pipe to the
exhaust manifold, as shown in the diagram below.
Some V-type engines have
dual exhaust systems with separate exhaust pipes and exhaust systems connected to
each exhaust manifold.
The Catalytic Converter
Three major
automotive pollutants are carbon monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC), and
oxides of nitrogen (NOx). When air and gasoline are mixed and burned in the combustion
chambers, the by-products of combustion are carbon, carbon dioxide (CO2), CO, and
water vapor. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon fuel containing hydrogen and carbon. Since
the combustion process in the cylinders is never 100% complete, some unburned HC are
left over in the exhaust. Some HC emissions occur from evaporative sources, such as
gasoline tanks and carburetors.
Oxides of nitrogen (NOx) are caused by high
cylinder temperature. Nitrogen and oxygen are both present in air. If the combustion
chamber temperatures are above 1,371 degrees Celsius, some of the oxygen and
nitrogen combine to form NOx. In the presence of sunlight, HC and NOx join to form
smog.
Catalytic converters may be pellet-type or monolithic-type. A pellet-type
converter contains a bed made from hundreds of small beads, and the exhaust gas passes
over this bed (see Fig 1). In a monolithic-type converter, the exhaust gas passes
through a honeycomb ceramic block (Fig 2). The converter beads, or ceramic block, are
coated with a thin coating of platinum, palladium, or rhodium, and mounted in a
stainless steel container. An oxidation catalyst changes HC and CO to CO2 and water
vapor (H20). The oxidation catalyst may be referred to as a two-way catalytic
converter (Fig 3).
Fig 1: Pellet-type catalytic converter
Fig 2:
Monolithic-type catalytic converter
Fig 3: Oxidation catalyst changed HC
and CO to CO2
Fig 4: Three-way catalytic converter operation
In a three-
way catalytic converter, the converter is positioned in front of the oxidation
catalyst. A three-way catalytic converter reduces NOx emissions as well as CO and HC.
The three-way catalyst reduces NOx into nitrogen and oxygen (Fig 4).
Some
catalytic converters contain a thermo-sensor that illuminates a light on the
instrument panel if the converter begins to overheat. Unleaded gasoline must be used
in engines with catalytic converters. If leaded gasoline is used, the lead in the
gasoline coats the catalyst and makes it ineffective. Under this condition, tail
pipe emissions become very high. An engine that is improperly tuned would also cause
severe overheating of the catalytic converter. Examples of improper tuning would be
a rich air-fuel mixture or cylinder misfiring.
Many catalytic converters have an
air hose connected from the belt-driven air pump to the oxidation catalyst. This
converter must have a supply of oxygen to operate efficiently. On some engines, a mini-
catalytic converter is built into the exhaust manifold or bolted to the manifold
flange.
The Resonator, Muffler, and Tailpipe
Since the
resonator and muffler perform basically the same functions, I decided to write about
them under one heading. Firstly, the main function of the muffler is to reduce the
sound of the engines outcoming exhaust gases through the exhaust pipes to a minimal
level. Since the muffler cannot reduce the noise of the engine by itself, some (if not
most) exhaust systems also have a resonator between the catalytic converter and the
muffler. Resonators are basically the second muffler, and are usually the "straight
through" type.
The muffler quiets the noise of the exhaust by "muffling" the
sound waves created by the opening and closing of the exhaust valves. When an exhaust
valve opens, it discharges the burned gases at high pressures into the exhaust pipe,
which is at low pressure. This type of action creates sound waves that travel through
the flowing gas, moving much faster than the gas itself (up to 1400 mph = 625.8m/s),
that the resonator and muffler must silence. It generally does this by converting the
sound wave energy into heat by passing the exhaust gas and its accompanying wave
pattern, through perforated tubes and tuning chambers. Passing into perforations
and reflectors within the chamber forces the sound waves to dissipate their
energy.
The above described and pictured muffler design is the most common
type, the reverse-flow design, which changes the direction of exhaust flow inside the
muffler. Exhaust gases are directed to the third chamber, forced forward to the first
chamber, from where they travel the length of the muffler and are exhausted into the
tailpipe.
Some mufflers are a straight through design in which the exhaust
passes through a single perforated pipe into a outside chamber packed with metal,
fiberglass, packed glass, or other sound absorbing (or insulating) material. As the
exhaust gases expand from the perforated inner pipe into the outer chamber, they come
in contact with the insulator and escape to the atmosphere under constant pressure.
Because of this, the expanding chamber tends to equalize or spread the pressure peaks
throughout the exhaust from each individual cylinder of the engine. This type of
muffler is thus freer flowing and designed for the purpose of reducing back pressure
and, consequently, makes slightly more noise.
The tail pipe basically carries
the flow of exhaust from the muffler to the rear of the vehicle. Some vehicles have an
integral resonator in the tail pipe. Like the resonator mentioned earlier, this
resonator is similar to a small muffler, and it provides additional exhaust
silencing. In some exhaust systems, the resonator is clamped into the tail pipe. Tail
pipes have many different bends to fit around the chassis and driveline components.
In general, all exhaust systems components must be positioned away from the chassis
and driveline to prevent rattling. The tail pipe usually extends under the rear
bumper, and the end of this pipe is cut at an angle to deflect the exhaust
downward.
Methods on How to Improve Efficiency and Power
After the
above discussion of the components in an automotive exhaust system, it is obvious
that the principle of the engine as a pump is not being utilized to the fullest. Air is
not allowed to flow too freely because of restrictions in the form of the catalytic
converter, the resonator, and the muffler. However, these components are necessary
by regulations to maintain safe exhaust gas emissions and minimal sound levels
(noise suppression). Also, in part, it takes time and money to design an excellent
performing and free flowing exhaust system; something that car manufacturers just
cant afford to waste resources on. This is where aftermarket companies come in to
create cost effective options for performance minded car owners. Of course, a free
flowing exhaust would be expected to make more noise than a normal one. But a good
manufactured system has a deep throaty tone, while yielding increases in horse power
and also passing emission tests. I will now go through some of the modifications of the
exhaust system that would "unleash" some horsepower and efficiency, while still
being street-legal.
Replacing the Exhaust Manifold with a Tuned
Header
A header is a different type of manifold; it is made of separate equal-
length cylindrical tubes with smooth curves in it for improving the flow of
exhaust.
Each time a power stroke occurs and an exhaust valve opens, a positive
pressure occurs in the exhaust manifold. A negative pressure occurs in the exhaust
manifolds between the positive pressure pulses, especially at lower engine speeds.
Some exhaust headers are tuned so the exhaust pulses enter the exhaust manifold
between the exhaust pulses from other cylinders, preventing interference between
the exhaust pulses. If the exhaust pressure pulses interfere with each other, the
exhaust flow is slowed, causing a decrease in volumetric efficiency (and thus
decrease in horsepower). Proper exhaust manifold/header tuning actually creates a
vacuum, which helps to draw exhaust out of the cylinders and improve volumetric
efficiency, resulting in an increase in horsepower.
Dual Exhaust
Systems
For engines with the "V" type configurations, it would be more efficient
to use a dual exhaust system than the "Y" pipe. In other words, two pipes (instead of
one) connect the exhaust manifold/header to two catalytic converters, two
resonators, and two mufflers. Thereby each manifold will have their own resonators,
catalytic converters, exhaust pipes, mufflers, and tailpipes. The advantage of a
dual exhaust system is that the engine exhausts air and gases more freely, thereby
lowering the back pressure, which is inherent in an exhaust system. With a dual
exhaust system, a sizable increase in engine horsepower can be obtained because the
"breathing" capacity of the engine is improved, leaving less exhaust gases in the
engine at the end of each exhaust stroke. This, in turn, leaves more room for an extra
intake of the air-fuel mixture. The disadvantage of a dual exhaust system is that it
would be costly due to the additional components. No doubt the addition of another
exhaust system adds more weight to the car, but the increase in horsepower is
substantial enough to outweigh the horsepower losses through additional
weight.
Removing the Resonator
The resonator does not function also as
emissions control device, so removing it and putting a straight pipe connecting the
catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe will not cause the car to fail emissions
test. Instead, some horsepower can be realized and not to mention the loudness of the
exhaust. However, with a tuned muffler, the sound can be toned down to a deep throaty
sound that is not irritable.
Upgrading to Larger Pipe Diameter
The factory
exhaust pipes have diameters around 1.5" to 2" (some 2.25" for newer larger engine
cars). Increasing the diameter of the piping will also increase the average
path/cross- sectional area that the air can pass with a minute decrease in velocity. As
mentioned before, if the diameter (and hence cross-sectional area) of the pipe is
increased too much, the velocity of the air flow will decrease more than the area
increases, so flow would be adversely affected and power would be lost.
So,
depending on the size of the engine, the optimal size pipe to upgrade to varies from 2"
to 2.5". On average, a naturally aspirated 2.5 liter engine would suffice with 2.25"
exhaust piping from the catalytic converter back to the muffler inlet.
Mandrel
Bent Versus Crush Bent Piping
Another way to upgrade the exhaust piping from the
catalytic converter back to the muffler is to have the exhaust piping mandrel (heat)
bent instead of the conventional crush bending. As the name suggests, mandrel bends
are achieved through the heating of the piping before bending whereas crush bent just
literally mean that the piping is bent entirely by force. However, the main
difference between mandrel bent and crush bent piping is the ease of flow. Mandrel
piping keeps the pipe at a constant cross-sectional area throughout a bend which makes
exhaust flow easier. On the other hand, crush bending deforms the pipe at the bend(s),
which can restrict the exhaust flow. The disadvantage of mandrel bending is that it is
relatively expensive, because of the costs involved in operating a mandrel bending
heat machine. A popular alternative is to get piping with larger diameter and then
have it crush bent. This way, it kind of evens out the differences in air flow ease,
especially if that particular exhaust pipe configuration has a lot of bends and 90
degree bends.
Straight Through Versus Reverse Flow Mufflers
Having a
optimally free flowing exhaust all the way from the manifold would not do much good if
the restrictive stock muffler is still used. The inlet and outlet diameters of the
pipe in the muffler should also be as large as feasible, so as to allow free flow of
exhaust gases. A straight through muffler would be preferred to a reverse flow
muffler mainly because the process of air re- direction in the reverse flow muffler is
too restrictive. A straight through muffler design would allow exhaust gases to be
expedited out as efficiently as possible, although the muffling abilities would not
be as efficient as that of the reverse flow design. Therefore it will be inevitable
that the exhaust will sound louder than before, but as mentioned before a couple of
times, an aftermarket straight through muffler uses noise suppressing material
that tones down the sound to that of one thats deep and throaty and not irritating.
However, as will be discussed in the next section, a new generation of mufflers may be
able to tackle this.
The Future
These days, you cant think of exhaust
system as just some crude plumbing hung on as an afterthought to pipe away air, heat,
and to keep those decibels down. Its become an integral part of the powertrain and
under-car architecture critical to performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions
reduction. There has already been development of low or zero emission vehicles
already in the recent auto shows by major automobile manufacturers like Honda
(Natural Gas vehicle) and Ford (Electric car). A oncoming development I would like to
discuss about in this section is the Electronic Muffler.
As an executive with
Walker, one of the major muffler makers involved in developing the concept puts it,
"After the introduction of the catalytic converter in 1975, this is probably the most
revolutionary technology thats happened to exhaust systems in the entire history
of the automobile."
While the idea is surprising, the basic principle isnt hard
to grasp. From a microphone and a crankshaft speed/position sensor, the computer
receives input on the pattern of pressure waves (thats what sound is, after all) the
engine is emitting at its tail pipe. This data is processed using patented
algorithms, which produce mirror-image pulses that are sent to speakers mounted near
the exhaust outlet, creating contra-waves that cancel out the noise. In other words,
the sensors trap the waveform signature of the engine, and the speakers generate anti-
noise waves 180 degrees out of phase with the gas waves. This destructive
interference idea is sort of like fighting fire with fire. The sound waves collide,
wiping each other out. It doesnt just mask the noise, it actually removes sound
energy from the environment, and from the law of conservation of energy where the
energy has to turn up someplace, all that is left is low-level heat.
Although
electronic mufflers are not widely used (if ever) at present, they may be installed on
vehicles in the near future. In 1989, a joint Electronic Muffler System development
program was started and the University of Michigans Delphi study predicts that 20%
of the cars produced in North America will have electronic mufflers by the turn of the
century.
Well, if the electronic mufflers are really as effective as they claim
to be and they were available now, we could build a perfect exhaust system using the
setup described earlier with the addition of an electronic muffler then the problem
of loud exhaust wouldnt exist. But then again, by the time the electronic muffler is
out in the market, technology might have other improvements of the exhaust system and
we will again try to match components to produce more horsepower and attain better gas
mileage (efficiency).
In conclusion, we go back to the basic analogy of the
engine as a pump; the more air that can flow freely, the more horsepower that can be
optimally achieved from the engine. This research paper has only dealt with how to get
air OUT of the engine. It is important to note that the INFLOW of air also influences the
output performance of the engine. As a matter of fact, we need the inflow of air before
the outflow process starts. In brief, the inflow of air can be modified by removing the
intake resonator, or even removing the entire airbox and installing a pipe with a cone-
shaped filter at the end. There are many other ways to improve air inflow, but I shall
not discuss about them as it would be outside he scope of this paper if Im primarily
interested in the outflow of exhaust gases.
Also, it is important to note that
"horsepower" is a unit of energy over time. So the more energy it requires to do
something, the less power you will get out of it. In other words, it is because
motorcycles are lighter than cars that they can achieve similar if not higher
horsepower. That is why race cars are stripped of the interior, air conditioning, and
any other unnecessary weight. This way, there will be less weight to move, meaning
less energy required and thus more power produced. That is why automotive engineers
are trying to use materials of lighter weight, like plastics and carbon fiber.
Answer:
n/m = no message
Posted by: Jim
on February 25, 2002 at 16:57:39.
AutoFAQ'ed
Question:
If it's vacuum advance, your car won't start at all with the ecu.
If it is 86-87 vacuum advanced, all the ecu plugs will be milky white.
If it is 88-89 electronic advanced, one ecu plug will be green, the
others will be milky white.
Answer:
Good Info
Posted by: Dave Hardy
on February 27, 2002 at 21:43:37.
Re: DC Header installation for a newbie?
Question:
It seems I'm the owner of a used two-piece DC header. DC's not giving me
any info, so would someone please tell me how to install it on my 89 Si? I
have no AC. What else will I need? Gaskets? O2 sensor? Where can I get
them? As always, many thanks - Joe
Answer:
makes it really easier that you got the 2 piece one. the stock
exhaust manifold is two pieces as well, just unbolt and bolt the new
one. just like they mentioned for gaskets, the stock exhaust manifold
gasket (inbetween the head and header) should be reusable. maybe
clean it up and youre good to go. the two crush gaskets between the
two pieces may not be too reusable, but try anyway, if you get blow
by, should be apparent once its all installed and you see air
squeezing out, then i guess you gotta call dc for a replacement
gasket. i also suggest you get a new O2 sensor. the O2 sensor is
one of the hardest things to take off since its been practically
welded onto the bunghole from all the high temp cycling for over a
decade. plus, its good to have a new one. they are all made by
bosch, so dont bother going to honda for the o2 sensor. just go to
the parts store and get the universal sensor, since it will give you
an extra length of wire and then you can splice onto the stock o2
wire with a simple butt connector and extra insulation. other than
that, be safe and use proper jack stands. it will also be handy to
have a decent breaker bar to get some of the bolts off. a 3"
extension is also nice to use to unfasten and fasten the exhaust
manifold bolts since the pipes get in the way. let us know how you
like the difference with the header on. i sure liked it, better than
my obnoxiously loud intake.
Posted by: tyson
on March 08, 2002 at 10:12:52.
maybe not the ignitor
Question:
its been driving me wild. The stupid tach's been going crazy...it spikes
up when im accelerating (erratically) and even @ idle sometimes. Could it
be the ignition coil going dead?? maybe the Dist. cap?
Or maybe even the cluster gauge itself???
Any ideas???
Answer:
had some trouble with my tach before. it was weird cuz i did change
the igniter and no difference. but after a while, i did notice that
it was more likely to go haywire when my wheels were at a certain
position of rotation. like say waiting at a stop sign, it would go
crazy, then just inching up a bit more it would be back at idle, then
roll back to the original position and it would go crazy again. at
the same time, i would very occasionally and randomly get a VSS
error. this made sense, prolly something wrong with my ground at the
vss making things go crazy since its mechanically set to the
tranny/wheel rotation. so i just unplugged all my electrical
connections and speedo cable to the guage cluster, cleaned out the
terminals and plugged it all back in and viola, no issues any more.
so see if you can manipulate the crazy tach by seeing what wheel
position youre in. if so, just clean the terminals in the guage
cluster.
tyson
Posted by: Tyson
on March 22, 2002 at 15:17:19.
READ! Pickle fork trick.
Question:
That's similar to what I did--I had the puller a little off center on
the stud and the force slightly crushed it in the area where the
cotter pin goes through. This deformed the threads to the point that
I couldn't turn the castle nut on.
I already have a pickle fork but stopped using it because I got tired
of pushing out all the grease and ripping boots. Now that I know the
downside to the pullers I might have to rethink that. Boots
definitely are cheaper than ball joints and labor!!
Answer:
I've been using the pickle fork for years on Honda lower ball joints
and I haven't ripped one yet using this method.
Rather than placing the tines of the fork around the ball joint and
boot, just use one of the tines. Slip it in toward the inside of the
ball joint. You need to make sure to have a pretty large pickle
fork, not one of the dinky ones for tie rod ends. Then just use it
as you normally would. Only one tine is actually doing any work in
this setup, but it's enough and you never have to touch the boots.
Gary
Posted by: GJC
on March 25, 2002 at 11:07:37.
Mysterous idle problem solved! Read and memorize!
If anyone remembers the new motor, high idle problem I had, I have finally
found the problem...
On my 89 teg ecu, the car would idle low in fast idle, and come up to
about 3k on a warm idle. Disconnecting the EACV caused the car to idle a
little low, but nothing the idle adjustment screw and a little electrical
tape (for the CEL) wouldn't fix.
On a 88 and 89 SI ECU, the idle was the same, but when you disconected the
eacv, there was a weird half throttle rev limiter at about 2100 RPM. Try
driving that! Also, holding less than half throttle for more than a sec
or two would cause the car to lurch like hell!
Anyways, I changed out everything I could think of.... you name it, I
tried 3 of em. And of all things, it was the coolant tempature sensor!
Put the old one in, and it runs flawlessly now! Now I know why the new
motor I baught was in a fire... someone got just as frustrated as me
trying to fix that problem...lol So, store that in your brain, you might
need it somday. If it idles high on warm idle, change the CTS. I know at
least one other person has had that problem, likr the guy with the B16....
Head Does NOT need to come off.
Question:
I thought I saw EPrdomeo change his valve stem seals with the head on the engine?
Answer:
Not to do seals. What you do is get one of those cylinder
presurizers (air hose with a spark plug thread on one end) and
pressurize the cylinder you're working on. It's a good idea to have
that piston at TDC just in case.
Once the cylinder is pressurized, remove the valve springs and use a
vice grip to get the old seals off. Press the new seals on with a
3/8 drive 10mm deep socket and soft taps from a rubber / wooden
mallet. Replace Valvesprings, Retainers, and Keepers, and you're
done with that valve. Repeat 15 times. I prefer to do one valve at
a time.
Remember that the Intake seals and Exhaust seals are different. The
Intakes have a silver spring, and the Exhaust have a black spring.
Auto FAQ'ed
Posted by: Dave Hardy
on April 07, 2002 at 16:59:37.
torque to yield TTY
Question:
Oem Head Bolts are a torque-to-yeild design. This means that as you
torque them, they are undergoing permanent deformation. This makes
it easy to get accurate torque... ONCE! That is all that the factory
is concerned with. If a torque-to-yeild bolt means that they can put
a head on 30 seconds quicker, then that equates to savings, and thus
they do it. All bolts stretch, but these stretch and don't return.
You do this a few times, and they get weak. The won't hold pressure
as well. They can break. The threads don't fit well - thus giving
you inaccurate torque readings. Etc...
The ARP's are a LOT stronger, and stay well under the yeild point.
Thus, they can be repeatedly torqued and un-torqued. They are so
strong, that they actually allow a higher torque than the factory,
which makes headgasket leaks less likely, and holds boost better.
The reason it makes since for us to use them, and not the factory, is
because we are installing one head, and we use a torque wrnch to get
an accurate reading. They are installing millions of heads, using an
air wrench. Getting accurate torque in that environment is easiest
with a torque-to-yeild.
Answer:
dave, ok i guess the term torque to yield didnt exactly register
correctly with my memory of mechanics of materials class, but my
thoughts are still consistent to the definition. your explanation of
why TTY bolts are used is wrong. both ARP and OEM headbolts are TTY,
I dont seem to get that from your message. TTY does not mean bolts
are destroyed once they are installed. they are torqued just to the
point of yielding. but it certainly doesnt mean its a faster way of
doing things. theres a reason theres a two step torque procedure
when installing the headbolts. yielding is GOOD. it means the bolt
stretches when stressed and comes BACK to its original position when
unstressed, thus saving head gaskets. OEM bolts works the same way
as ARP bolts. However you are correct that ARP bolts are fabricated
to be as strong as possible, however im pretty sure Honda OEM bolts
are not that cheaply made either, they have a lot at stake in their
engine reputation and know a lot of about critical parts for engine
reliability. again, theres NO indicator in the HELMS manual that
suggests the headbolts need to be replaced.
but, i must say that if headbolts have been over torqued enough, they
will over stretch and THEN cause the bolt to NOT come back to its
original position, thus making the bolt unusable. sometimes this may
not be verifyable, so a safer engine builder will just replace it
instead of taking the chance. but it doesnt mean if instlaled
correctly that they cannot be reused.
your post is inaccurate and should not have been autofaqed.
Posted by: Tyson
on April 10, 2002 at 11:14:32.
Goddamit im confusing myself
Question:
dave, ok i guess the term torque to yield didnt exactly register
correctly with my memory of mechanics of materials class, but my
thoughts are still consistent to the definition. your explanation of
why TTY bolts are used is wrong. both ARP and OEM headbolts are TTY,
I dont seem to get that from your message. TTY does not mean bolts
are destroyed once they are installed. they are torqued just to the
point of yielding. but it certainly doesnt mean its a faster way of
doing things. theres a reason theres a two step torque procedure
when installing the headbolts. yielding is GOOD. it means the bolt
stretches when stressed and comes BACK to its original position when
unstressed, thus saving head gaskets. OEM bolts works the same way
as ARP bolts. However you are correct that ARP bolts are fabricated
to be as strong as possible, however im pretty sure Honda OEM bolts
are not that cheaply made either, they have a lot at stake in their
engine reputation and know a lot of about critical parts for engine
reliability. again, theres NO indicator in the HELMS manual that
suggests the headbolts need to be replaced.
but, i must say that if headbolts have been over torqued enough, they
will over stretch and THEN cause the bolt to NOT come back to its
original position, thus making the bolt unusable. sometimes this may
not be verifyable, so a safer engine builder will just replace it
instead of taking the chance. but it doesnt mean if instlaled
correctly that they cannot be reused.
your post is inaccurate and should not have been autofaqed.
Answer:
correction, yielding is NOT good, but ELASTIC stretching is. im
trying to dig up all the damn crap i crammed for a test the next
morning and terms and definitions are escaping me. i just did my
research with good ol google and crap is confusing me out there. but
this is KNOW, follow the instructions and dont over torque the
headbolts and its ok to reuse them if they were installed correctly.
if thats not for sure, then replace them. i cant verify if honda
even uses TTY bolts. i cant imagine they would. ARP are stronger
and allow for greater tolerance, thus prefered for great stressed
engines and frequent reuse. sorry for confusing the issue. im
trying to sort it all out myself.
Posted by: Tyson
on April 10, 2002 at 11:35:33.
AutoFAQ'ing. nm
Question:
1) Endyn- These are simply renamed off-the-shelf Wiseco units.
Wiseco in my experience is the least technichally advance piston
company. They seem to have seized up the fact that if you forge and
machine round thing from aluminum, people will buy it. I can't
discern a lot of understanding beyond that. In kart racing there are
many piston sizes, but as with a honda the factory japanese pistons
are of top quality but only come in a few sizes. Once the liner got
past the last factory size we could not race the motor anymore, as it
requires Wiseco (or other low-tech piston makers) pistons and they
were not competitive. Not recomended, as they are heavy compared to
the best pistons, and have poorer thermal performance which manifests
itelf in less controlled expansion with heat. Endyn is fond of them
because they are inherently the less expensive, so when he marks them
up to the price of the premium quality custom pistons he claims them
to be, he makes more money. They are neither premium nor custom, they
come sealed in a box from Wiseco, untouched by Endyn. One guy hybrid
board orders 5 sets, for several different applications. Some were
suppossed to produce 12.5 in a particlar motor, other 11.5 in the
same engine. All where the exact same identical part.
2)Arias- Old school V8 hot-rod piston maker, not bad quality buy not
exaclty a cutting edge design and metalurgy. Certainly strong, but
they expand a bit wildly requiring increased piston clearence and
subsequent piston slap. V8's use more piston clearence, and have
plenty of cast iron surrounding the cyliners to muffle the slap.
There are better options.
3)SRP-Not a bad choice, low cost line manufactured by the real piston
maker...
4)JE- The real thing, with cutting edge metalurgy and design similar
to what people like honda have. Light and strong, with the best
expansion characteristics allowing the tightest cylinder clearence.
Not cheap, but clearly better than Arias or Wiseco. It's not clear
exactly how much difference there is between the JE branded units and
the ones SRP sells, the SRP version is cheaper. To be honest I'd
trust the SRP's more than Arias or Wiseco, and I'd get the JE's if
budget permitted.
5)Other Choices- I'm sure there are some, I think Ross is making
import pistons now also. They are top drawer like JE, but very
costly. Like the JE they are available on a truly custom basis, not
the handful of Wiseco part numbers Endyn sells. To be honest JE is
the piston of choice, and they sell sets for hondas at fair prices.
I'm not sure how much farther I'd look...
Bear in mind that pistons designed for a16a6 will yield approximately
1.1 point less CR than they do in an a6, depending on what ratio
range you are looking at. The combustion chamber volume on a zc is
signicantly larger. A stock a6 piston that produces 9.1:1 in an a6
produces 8.03:1 in a zc. If you want the supremely cheap alternative
you could use some .5mm oversize a6 pistons and mill the head .020".
This would produce 8.4:1 or so, but of course wouldn't stand near the
abuse that forged pistons will. Sounds like your in the mood to
build a stronger motor than that :)
I would certainly run head studs and would talk to some people about
possibly o-ringing the block if you want to run serious boost.
Regards,
Steve
Answer:
nm
Posted by: C_CRX
on April 12, 2002 at 11:39:11.
Bolts and torque -FAQ'able version
Question:
Dave-ARP Head Studs will allow 60 ft-lbs
Steve-ARP studs don't allow more torque, they require it. As they are
made from a stonger (less elastic) steel, more torque is required to
create enough stretch of the stud to equal the clamping force of the
stock bolt. The clamping force is a product of the bolt or stud's
desire to return to it's original dimension (or close to it), not the
torque applied to the bolt.
Dave-I think I'll have to disagree regarding the torque applied to
the bolt not producing the clamping force. Looking at an M10-1.5 Bolt
(which I believe is the size of the head bolt) we have a
circumference of 31.4mm and a pitch of 1.5mm. This means that the
threads multiply the horizontal force (the torque) by 20.9 to get the
resultant verticle force (the clamping force).
We can convert the torque values into force and lever arm values
quite easily. 60 ft-lbs becomes a 3658 lb force applied to a 5mm
lever arm (the radius of the bolt), and 47 ft-lbs becomes a 2865 lb
force applied at the same lever arm. Multiplying these horizontal
foece values by the multiple that the screw (aka inclined plane)
gives us and we have the stock head bolts clamping the head down with
a force of 60,000 lbs, and the ARP's clamping with a force of 76,600
lbs.
Both the studs and bolts stretch. The stretch is an effect, not a
cause though. If you had a theoretical material with zero stretch,
all of the above would still apply. You just wouldn't stretch the
fastener.
Steve- The bolt stretch is indeed the active ingrediant in the
production of the clamping force. That is why bolt stretch guages are
used in critical applications. It matters not what level of torque is
required to produce a given level of stretch. The differing Young's
Modulus for different materials is why the ARP's require more
torque. If you used the factory spec, there would not be enough
stretch of the stud. Torque is not a more-is-better situation, as
you approach the yield strenth of the fastener it looses it's ability
to return to it's original dimensions (actually only close to it, it
never fully returns). The reason to use ARP's is that the are
stronger. Not only does it require more force (produced via the
torque) to properly stretch the stud, but it also requires more force
(via the engine's power production) to further stretch the bolt,
making the gasket harder to blow. The Young's Modulus does not
describe the return, but the fact that it is different for the ARP's
material is why more torque is required for adequate stretch. Stock
head bolts won't break at 60 ft-lbs, you just reach the point at
which they can't return as close to the original dimension as
required. This is important as the desire to return creates the
clamping force, not the torque applied.
"It is important to note that in order for a fastener to function
properly it must be stretched a specific amount. The materials
ability to rebound like a spring is what provides the clamping
force."
You can read the entire article at:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/fastener.html
Dave- I'm gonna be bold and disagree with ARP's web site. While I
agree that measureing the stretch is the best way of getting a bolt
to the correct tension, I propose that it is because the amount of
stretch is a more accurate indicator of the clamping force, than the
torque wrench. In my other post, the equations didn't allow for
friction. ARP knows this. By measuring stretch, you eliminate
friction as a variable. I still say the inclined plane produces the
clamping force, not the stretch. It all comes down to clamping force.
Torque is one way to measure it, stretch is a better way.
As an example, let's put an ARP stud into the block. Put the head on
the block. Don't use a nut. Hang the block by the stud. Hang an
additional 10,000 pounds from the stud. The stud will have
significant stretch, but no clamping force.
Steve- In your example of hanging the block by the stud, you do
produce stetch of the stud. There is a desire for it to return to
it's original dimension. You just haven't given it any means to
tranlate this force. The stud can simple return to length, right back
down the hole. The nut contacts the cylinder head and prevents the
stud from returning to original length. This opposition is what
produces the clamping force. Without the nut the bolt doesn't touch
the cylinder head at all.
The inclined plane produces the stretch, the stretch produces
the clamping force. You are correct in that bolt stretch is more
accurate because of removal of friction from the equation. This is
why it is vital to lubricate your fasteners, as the torque values off
badly if the parts are dry.
Dave- Maybe just differing on the cause and effect. I say the force
causes the stretch, and you say the stretch causes the force (if I am
understanding correctly). If this is the case though, what causes
the stretch?
Steve- The inclined force stetches the fastener. The desire for the
fastener to relieve the stretch produces the clamping force. The ARP
quote states it directly.
"The materials ability to rebound like a spring is what provides
the clamping force."
Dave- But for the inclined force (the nut) to induce stretch on the
stud, it has to push against something. This something is the head.
When it does this, it exerts a clamping force.
Steve- Once you stop turning the nut, this action stops. From there
on out it's the desire for the fastener to return to original length
that creates the clamping force.
"60 ft-lbs becomes a 3658 lb force applied to a 5mm lever arm"
Once you quit cranking on the torque wrench, that 60 ft-lbs goes to
zero. At this point all the clamping force is generated by the
desire of the fastener to return to original length.
-=The Dave & Steve Show=-
Answer:
n/m
Posted by: Steve
on April 15, 2002 at 15:22:56.
Bolts, point 2
Answer:
"If there is a permanent increase of .001" in length, or if there is
deformation, the bolt should be replaced."
The reason this is stated is that if the faster shows more than one
thousandth of an inch permanant increase, it has come close enough to
its yield point that it is no longer returning to original length
properly, thereby reducing the clamping force (even though we have
the same torque, and same inclined force).
Due to metal fatigue, the fasterner never returns all the way to its
original length, just very, very, close to it. Less than a
thousandth of an inch. This is why you aren't supposed to re-use
head bolts. Its not the condition of the threads, but the fact that
every time the bolt is stretched it gets farther and farther from the
orignal length after the force is removed, reducing the clamping
force.
Regards,
Steve
Posted by: Steve
on April 15, 2002 at 15:40:54.
I gotta AutoFAQ this.
Question:
I've always been fascinated by all things mechanical. To keep me off
of motorcycles, my father built me a racing go kart at age 11 and off
to the tracks we went. I couldn't believe there was a pursuit so
ideally suited to me. I'm obsessively competitive (to a fault) and
it soon became apparent I could drive the wheels off anything that
could be driven. I soon became involved in the building of chassis,
brakes, engines, and anything else required to further my racing.
For a decade I dominated kart racing in Arizona and Southern
California, and my father and I developed our engines to the point
that our competitors had to purchase them from us to compete. When I
look back now it amazes even myself what I accomplished, never
knowing what failure was. My father, a talented electrical engineer,
was there every step of the way, and the two of us were truly
unstoppable. I have visualization skills and comprehension of
complex systems that few engineers do. My father was there to fill
in the gaps in my knowledge, but even he did not see the "big
picture" of complex systems as clearly as I did.
I never was as good a student as I was a racer. I breezed through
high school, completing college level calculus and physics in the
advanced placement programs offered by the (first-rate) high school I
went to in Arizona. I attended ASU on an academic scholarship, and
at the same time my father moved to Tennessee for employment.
Without racing I floundered personally and professionally, and
dropped out after one semester.
After a couple of (wasted) years, I moved back to Tennessee and went
back to school. I completed the first 3 years of the EE curriculum,
while racing constantly at the multitude of dirt tracks in the SE
region. I soon became fixated on the WKA Dirt Nationals, as the
competition was so fierce I didn't win every race. Racing on dirt is
the ultimate challenge, as surface conditions vary so drastically and
quickly that you must be equal parts driver, engineer, and sorcerer
if you wish to succeed. In addition you get very little practice
time, with only 2 sessions before qualifying in conditions unlike
what you have at racetime.
I worked hard for the success I had on dirt. I no longer won every
race, but often succeeded against the finest talent imaginable.
School became more and more a task I couldn't focus on. I picked up
the skill of building PC's and dropped out of school (again) and
built 1500 a year for local PC stores for 7 years. My back finally
gave out, the result of many largely untreated spinal traumas over
the course of my racing career, and I quit my job to try to get my
health on track. I finally conceded I had to have back surgery, and
it went well. I am three weeks off of surgery now and considering
starting my own small business/home user PC consultation business.
Although it looks like my racing days are behind me now, I don't
regret the path I've traveled. Racing is the crucible that boils
away all the BS. If you don't do your best, you lose. Often you
lose even if you do your best. But on those days where your judgment
is sound, your understanding complete, and your performance perfect
you find a satisfaction that is hard to describe. I have known many
of the sharpest minds in many racing and engineering circles, and
they were without fail generous in helping me to grasp the things
that interest me. It is great to have forums like this where I can
in part pass on the many gifts I have been so fortunate to have
received in my time.
In closing let me say that all of you have the power within
yourselves to understand the physical realities around you. You
needn't be "mechanically inclined", degreed, or in any way anointed
to be your own expert. Hondas are crafted by an organization of
unbelievably skilled men. The fact that you all have seized upon
them for the wonder they are speaks volumes for the insight you
already possess.
Regards,
Steve
Answer:
Very nice.
Randy
Posted by: RGAZ
on April 26, 2002 at 07:37:07.
Very simple.
A functional alternator will put out 14 volts unless their is an excessive drain on the system that puts the alternator into current limit.
With the engine running, check the voltage at the battery and check the current from the alternator. If the alternator is pumpings its
brains out with a whopping 20 Amps, then the battery has a bad cell in it and it is bad. If the alternator is putting out no current and the
voltage is 12 or less, then the alternator is junk.
Most autoparts stores can test batteries and alternators without removing them from the car.
Randy
Posted by: RGAZ
on April 27, 2002 at 12:30:58.
FMU for Turbo tirade (autofaq)
Question:
It was too coarse for my tastes. I got it tuned very well, but it really didn't respond as well as I thought it would. Don't think for a minute
that a 12:1 will actually raise the pressure 12 to 1. It doesn't even get close. With the stock pump it basically would see some boost
and rail the pump at 65psi and that's it. So lower rpms would run too rich and higher rpms would run too lean. It got really annoying. I
switched to the 10:1 and the pump wouldn't rail right away. It would wait until a few psi of boost (seemed to be close to 10:1) then the
pump would rail and lean out at higher rpm. So what do you do? I put a big ass pump in there good for 100 psi. I put the 12:1 back in
and the pressure was all over the place. At low rpm it was massively rich (needed a bypass) and I high rpm it was still too rich. Fouled
plugs in no time at all. So at that point I was sick of it. My wife said I could buy the Zdyne so I jumped at the chance. Since then, I
sold the Vortech and soon the MSD 6BTM will be available too. The check valve setup is for sale also. I think I could get the
vortech to work well for 5psi or less, but at 7-8psi, it was too hard to balance low rpm A/F with high rpm A/F with stock injectors. If I
had to do it again, I would go for the SAFC hack and the 450cc. Forget the FMU's. The engine fuel demand is not linear and the
pump output isn't linear either, so its a multi-variable balancing act that is highly dependant on the limits of the fuel system.
Hope that helps.
Randy
BTW-Have you ever seen a 100psi fuel leak?
Answer:
Good post Randy.
Posted by: GJC
on May 07, 2002 at 19:07:10.
gear ratios 101 (and I mean 101)
Question:
Ok, so I'll scratch that one. I honestly have no clue how all those
numbers work, anyone have an article to educate my idiocy?
Answer:
Gears are a system for exhanging rotational velocity (SPEED) for
torque by making use of mechanical advantage.
By turning the engine five times for every one time the drive axles
turn, you can theoretically increase your available torque by a
factor of five. (Reality: ever heard of drivetrain loss i.e. power
to wheels vs crank?) Remember, nothing in science is free energy!
The tradeoff for this increase in torque is the fivefold decrease in
speed that the driveshaft experiences. Ultimately, the same amount
of mechanical work is done either way because 5Torque * 1/5 velocity
= Torque*velocity. (I understand the physics is not perfect here,
but its close enough to be functional)
So lets move to something more concrete. Gear ratios when you are
reading transmission gear ratio tables are expressed in terms of
changes to the rotational speed. i.e. a 4.785 final drive will need
to turn 4.785 times completely to make the driveshaft turn (assuming
it was turning the driveshaft directly). A 4.266 FD will have to
turn fewer times, producing a "longer" set of gears and less
mechanical advantage. This will in turn require the motor to provide
more torque to produce an equal amount of acceleration. Gears
themselves simply multiply with the FD to get an effective gear ratio
for that particular gear. The effective gear ratio is quite simply
the number of times the engine will have to turn to make the axles
make one complete revolution. Higher gear ratios mean that the
engine has to turn more to produce the same wheel speed, and
conversely means that the engine requires less torque to
turn/accelerate the wheels because it has greater mechanical
advantage.
So the basic idea here is that you can make the motor spin faster at
a given speed using high gear ratios to overcome the effect of a weak
motor. You will have to shift more often as you acclerate and you
limit your top speed due to RPMs getting really high.
Alternatively, you can lower your gear ratios and "lengthen" your
gears to achieve higher wheelspeeds at a given RPM when you have
torque to spare. The idea here is that with a torquey motor, you are
generating enough torque that you do not need the additional
mechanical advantage provided by high gear ratios. Instead, longer
gears let the engine with power to spare stay in healthy gear ratios
for longer periods of time, at the expense of mechanical adavantage
that is not really needed due to increased power.
Bottom line: you're trading ease of acceleration (gear ratio,
mechanical advantage, same thing) for wheel speed at a given RPM.
Posted by: David Blundell
on May 10, 2002 at 12:24:34.
Autofaq'ing this...
Question:
Using a6 pistons in conjunction with the y8 head will produce
something on the order of 11.4:1 CR, just about right. Using z6
pistons yields something on the order of 9.8:1. Not high enough. A1
pistons, in their 88-89 configuration will yield 13:1+ with the y8
head, a little high for my tastes. Valve clearance has proven to be
sufficient with the z6 or a6 pistons, I would check a1 units
carefully before attempting to use them. Clay with the vtec engaged
would be required, and probably a re-work of the combustion chambers
to bring the CR down.
I don't think the a6's are any stronger than the z6 blocks, but as
mentioned the a6 pistons give you more compression ratio. So if
you've got a good a6, by all means use it. I'm running a 75 dollar
z6 block right now because my a6 was whooped. I have another z6
block I want to rebuild with a6 pistons for my next motor. It will
use a y8 head with the smaller intake runners opened up and the
chambers polished a little. Should yield 11:1.
As delivered one intake port on each cyliner is obstructed in order
to aim its output at the center of the cylinder. This helps swirl
but the motors already posses good swirl without screwing up the flow
on one runner. The head on my car right now has not been ported
because it was so cherry I didn't bother doing a valve job on it. I
have another casting I ported the I will use for the next build.
Your choice of the VAFC is a wise one. I use it in conjunction with
my 89 teg ecu and an adjustable fpr set to 44 psi. I engage the vtec
at 5200 with the y8 top end, and shift at 7800. I lean the mixture
at below vtec slightly and richen it after vtec. I run the ignition
timing full advance (high 20s, degree-wise) with the y8/z6 motor, as
it only has 10:1 or less CR. With a6 pistons and their resultant 11-
11.4:1 CR, would take something like 18 degrees of ignition lead.
Good 93 octane gas assumed.
If you went with a1 pistons, 13:1 is achieved. But 93 octane pump
gas is going to limit you to 8 degrees of ignition advance at most,
eliminating the power advantage of the higher CR. If you had 100
octane fuel you could run 18 degrees with the 13:1 ratio and make
killer power. On 93 octane that much compression is running you into
the detonation limits of the fuel before you can get agressive with
the state of tune.
I use the y8 intake manifold with a GSR throttle body. It makes good
power across the motor's operating range. Use the Si tranny and rev
the piss out of it. 89 5 speed ecu is the ticket as it allows 7800
rpm. I added an AEM cold air intake and like it. Use a 4-2-1 header
as nice as you can afford. Of course you use the stock a6
distributor and injectors. For the y8 manifold I use the integrated
MAP sensor in the TB, a z6 evap purge control solenoid, and the a6's
IAT in the intake tube.
The only other thing I would consider is another camshaft, and
possibly an adjustable cam gear. The stock y8 unit is pretty good,
but a few more ponies may be possible with a zex cam. I am still
running the y8 cam, and like it well enough. Sooner or later I will
either have my other y8 cam reground by JG or whomever to more
radical specs or get a zex 59300 cam. I suspect better valve springs
will be required than the stockers if I turn 7800 with the zex cam.
[Image http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/lig/s/a/sahrens_/Nikon/aem2.jpg]
Regards,
Steve
Answer:
So steve doesn't keep tying this over and over! :)
Janos
Posted by: Janos Lin
on May 15, 2002 at 18:29:55.
Yup. I saved a copy of my write-up, too.
Question:
Did you do a write up on 91 to 88 seatbelt conversion? I know I remember
seeing it but I no longer have it saved.... Anyone.
Answer:
This was done about 3 years ago and I no longer have the car.
Haven't repeated the process on my current '91 Si.
======================================================
Finished putting '88 seatbelts on my '91 Si. Why in the $%#* Honda
left in some of the mounting nuts and removed others is beyond me!
Good news- the pockets in the B-pillar for the '88-style retractors
and all the mounting nuts for them are still in the body, so the
retractor reels bolt right in. Also, the rear interior panels can be
returned to the '88-style by prying the filler cap off the top of the
panels. Other good news is that the tapped nuts in the body for the
end of the seatbelt and the clip socket are still there on the
passenger's side of the car. (Used for installing an infant
carrier.) Just unscrew the upholstery retainers and screw in the
respective bolts. Note that all the seatbelt bolts are 7/16-20 (not
metric!!!) with 17mm heads. The top of the retractor reels are held
by standard 6mm bolts.
Now, the bad news- Honda didn't leave in the B-pillar anchor nuts for
the belt hangers or the ones in the floor pan for the driver's side
belts. Also you will have to pull out the upper and lower rear
interior trim panels to do all this work. Royal pain in the arse. I
wouldn't have done it, except I was pulling out the interior to
replace the sunroof anyway, so I bit the bullet and did everything at
once. Note that the seatbelt blades that go into the push-button
sockets are not cross-compatible. You have to swap the sockets and
remove the originals from the seat rails. The older sockets do not
attach to the seat rails- they bolt through the floor pan.
You will have to fabricate a nutplate (7/16-20 tap) for the upper
hanger mounts and fish it up into the B-pillar. Thanks to the
mushroom-shaped studs on the pillars, there is not much room to do
this, but I managed to fish then up into place by pulling them up
with a string thru the hollow pillar, then fastened them into place
with two small screws per side (I drilled a small hole above and
below the existing hole for these screws). Once you have done all
this, you will have to drill a hole in each of your upper B-pillar
covers for the hanger bolt to pass through. The mold-mark for the
hole is still on the inside of the parts, so locating the hole
properly is easy. You might consider moving the hanger further up
the pillar than stock. This will ease the belt angle on your
shoulder if you are tall, and move the hardware clear of those studs.
Finally, two holes will have to be drilled through the driver's side
floorpan for the clip socket and the end of the belt. Locate the one
hole opposite from the existing one on the passenger's side of the
center tunnel, and the other as far outboard as possible next to the
frame rail. Use a large washer and nut under the car to retain the
bolts (again 7/16-20).
The next task is to gut the doors of the seatbelts and retractors.
Note that the hanger mount on the upper door frame is held on by TORX
bolts. Fortunately, driver bits to fit these can be found easily at
auto-parts stores.
After you have found a good set of used '88 CRX interior door panels
(Si preferred), you can pull the retractor reels out of the doors and
remove as much of the un-needed hardware as possible. Again, you
will need some TORX bits to do that. Inside the driver's door, two
wires need to be jumpered together to kill one of the seatbelt
warnings, and then the warning light pod under the rearview mirror
has to be removed to disconnect the wire harness from the warning
beeper circuit board.
The door panels will not be a perfect match. Maybe 2/3's of the
white/clear pop-in fasteners match positions, and the wiper strip at
the top of the panel will have to be trimmed-back to fit the wider
panel at the edge of the window channel. Youll have to remove the
little catches on the doorsill to clear the new panels (put the
screws back in with a flat filler piece or better yet buy a 88
doorsill trim piece to do it right). As for the rectangular hole in
the top of the door frame where the hanger protruded, you might try
fabbing a fiberglass fill plug it you want it to look better- it
wont harm anything left unfilled.
Good news about the 88 panels- a map pocket on the drivers door!
Posted by: crxsquared
on May 18, 2002 at 07:09:16.
Re: sort of complete list
Question:
1) Block-your a6 block is perfect. Can also use z6 or y8 blocks,
preferably with a6 pistons. Make sure to remove the oil restrictor.
2) Head-d16y8 sohc vtec. Make sure to get the vtec solenoid, valve
cover, and cam gear. Inspect the cam lobes carefully, they are very
narrow and tend to wear badly if the oil hasn't been changed. Port
the bad intake port on each cylinder, give it a good 3 angle valve
job.
3) Intake manifold-d16y8 manual shift version. Get as complete an
example as you can. Ideally, get the whole head/manifold assembly
from the same car. Get IAVC, fuel rail and nut, and FPR at least.
Insure the IAVC has only two wires.
4) Cam belt-z6 or y8 spec, same dimensions. The y8 version is
cheaper. Replace the water pump.
5) TB-z6 or y8 (56mm) or 94+ b16 or b18 (60mm).
6) Wiring harness-modify the car's original. Never, never, change
the harness on a 4g civic unless someone puts a gun to your head.
Even so let them shoot once before conceding.
7) Distributor-a6 or hf.
8) Injectors-a6, zc, or any obd-0 equiped motor.
9) Head & IM gaskets-d16y8.
10) Evap purge control solenoid-z6 unit works best. Mount it to the
tab on the y8 manifold just like it is on the z6. Use the TB mounted
MAP and toss the firewall MAP/purge assembly in the garbage.
11) IAT sensor-a6 or z6 unit, mounted in the intake tube. y8's have
them in the airbox. The y8 unit may work, haven't tried one yet.
12) Vtec controller-MSD rpm switch/relay, Fields, or VAFC. Whatever
you use, shoot for 5400 rpm engagement.
13) Header-zc, a6, z6, or y8 units all work fine. The OEM y8 unit is
a header. 4-2-1. Do not use the OEM a6 4-1, It sucketh.
14) Fuel management 89 teg ecu in combination with VAFC is my setup.
I also use an adjustable FPR (B&M works fine). Raise fuel pressure
unit the car slows, and lower it until runs best. Same with the
ignition advance. Fine tune with the VAFC. A VAFC is kind of
pricy, but will be easy to transfer to other cars/engines, or sell if
you want your money back. It beats thowing 75 bucks away on a MSD
rpm switch and relay setup.
Notes, learned the hard way-Use a6/z6 head bolts, and put .8" of
washers under the head of the passenger side rear corner one. You
can also use a y8 bolt w/o washers in this position. Put .375" of
washers under the head of the drivers side rear corner head bolt.
Do not go tighter than .005" on the intake and .006" on the exhaust
valve lash. Power goes straight down the shitter due to incomplete
seal while on the base circle at tighter settings.
Tuning makes or breaks the setup. Use the best gas you can get, and
crank the ignition timing waaaay up. Start at 43 PSI on the fuel
pressure for 90-91 Si or 88-89 teg ecus. You also need to work on
the correction maps (3 of the 4 of them) in the VAFC for best
performance. Get or make a full length cold air intake, or run the
stock setup with a K&N filter element.
I'm sure I've left a few things out.
Regards,
Steve
PS-Pricing is whatever you find the stuff for. Look around a while
and learn the market. Watch the classifieds here, at the resource,
and Hybrid for a while if want to get the really good deals. Don't
jump on the first ones you see, unless it is super clean and cheap.
Answer:
autoFaq
Posted by: crxrocks
on May 29, 2002 at 05:48:07.
I'm with Dave
Question:
I need some helpful advice on getting my 91 Si HB more corner carving
friendly. Here is my setup for now: Ground Control coilovers with tokico
non adj shocks. Stock rear stabilizer bar and stock front stab bar. I've
had this setup for quite a while and i plan on doing some auto x so
therefore i really feel like I need an upgrade. BTW brakes will be EX
knuckles with ss lines. The car is mostly daily driven/race on weekends
what brake pad does everyone recommend? Thanks for any help.
Answer:
You don't need to change anything. In autocrossing the most important thing is the loose nut behind the wheel. Get out there, run a few races, and talk to people. You will learn what you can do to make yourself and your car faster.
Here are a few things that you can do without spending another dime:
Improve your driving skill. Go to autocrosses, race, and have fun. Talk to people and ask to ride with the good drivers so you can see the fast way around the course.
Mess with your tire pressures. While you are racing put some white shoe polish on the sidewalls at the edge of the tread. Check the shoe polish after each run. If it is being scraped off above the edge of the tread, add pressure to that tire. If the tire wear isn't getting to the edge of the tread then you decrease tire pressure.
A better way of adjusting your tire pressures is to check tire temperatures with a pyrometer. After each run you take temperature readings of your tires in three places, the outside, middle, and inside. The ideal is to have all three readings come out about the same. If the middle is a higher temperature than the edges the tire is overinflated. If the edges are hotter than the middle the tire is underinflated.
Tire temperatures can tell you other things about your suspension set-up too. If the inside temperature is higher than the middle temperature which in turn is higher than the outside temperature there is too much negative camber. If it goes the other way and the outside temperature is higher than the inside temperature there is not enough negative camber.
If the front tires are much hotter than the rear then you are driving a a street car set up for understeer. The front tires are doing most of the cornering work. You need to increase roll resistance in the back or decrease it in the front. The easiest solution is to remove or disconnect the front anti-sway.
Disconnect the front anti-sway bar. It will transfer more of the cornering loads to the rear of the car which will dial out understeer. Take a few runs with the bar attached to see if you need to remove it.
Corner weight your car. You've got coil overs, use them like they are supposed to be used. See if you can find somebody at the autocross who has corner weighting scales and ask if he can help you corner weight your car. Failing that you might have to pay a shop to do it.
Here are a few things you can do if you have money burning a hole in your pocket listed in the order that I would buy them:
Race tires! You will never want to drive on street tires again. Talk to people who drive similar cars (us) for reccomendations.
Read the High Performance Handling Handbook or Performance handling by Don Alexander. They are two different books but I think the High performance handling handbook is probably an updated version of Performance Handling. Now that I think about it, you might put this above race tires.
Suspension Techniques adjustable rear anti-sway bar. It is much stiffer than the stock bar and you can adjust how much roll resistance it provides.
Adjustable shocks. Like the sway bar, adjustable shocks make the chassis more tuneable.
Posted by: Cameron
on June 21, 2002 at 06:57:26.
BIGGEST difference
Question:
The other day i went bowling and i saw an Integra with a B18a engine with
v-tec head. Im wondering what is the difference between a B18a w/ v-tec
head and a B18c5? I heard B18a w/ v-tec has more torque but im not sure.
Anybody know the difference or has some comments?
Peter
Answer:
two words:
OIL FLOW
To make a LS/Vtec or CR/Vtec (non-vtec block w/ vtec head) you need
to tap + plug an oil passage in the head because it is not present on
non-vtec blocks. You then need to run a high temp line to carry oil
from your bottom end to the head. It is hard-impossible to make this
line carry as much oil as a vtec block's oil passageway feeding the
vtec head. As a result, LS/Vtec and CR/Vtec engines generally run
4.5 quarts of oil instead of 4. This helps a little, but still there
is not really any way of preventing at least mild oil starvation to
the head, which makes for long term reliability issues.
Put simply, LS/Vtecs and CR/Vtecs blow up more often than
B18C1s,C3s,C5s that have the factory oil passage to the head.
Other differences:
CRANK: the LS + CRV cranks have a higher rod/stroke ratio than the
GSR + ITR. What this means: 1. You are going to make more torque
lower 2. You are more likely to crack a cylinder, push a piston
through a cylinder or have other problems related to engine geometry.
Compression: the 90-91 B18A LS with a b16a1 head on top gives you
approx 10.5:1 compression. The ITR runs 11.somthing, depending on
whether it is USDM or JDM I believe. Don't take these numbers as
gospel - they are off the top of my head. If you use the PR3 pistons
out of a B16A1 in a LS block with LS rods you will get about 11.5:1
compression with a b16a1 head (this I know because I thought about
doing it)
Cams: The ITR and CTR have more aggressive cams than the B16A1 + A2.
This makes a difference in the size, placement and duration fo your
powerband. I'm out of my league to answer specifics on the
differences, but I do know that the CTR cams are the most agressive,
and the ITR and CTR exhaust cams are identical.
hope that helps
Posted by: David Blundell
on June 28, 2002 at 08:45:58.
LS/V vs factory Vtec, revised
Question:
two words:
OIL FLOW
To make a LS/Vtec or CR/Vtec (non-vtec block w/ vtec head) you need
to tap + plug an oil passage in the head because it is not present on
non-vtec blocks. You then need to run a high temp line to carry oil
from your bottom end to the head. It is hard-impossible to make this
line carry as much oil as a vtec block's oil passageway feeding the
vtec head. As a result, LS/Vtec and CR/Vtec engines generally run
4.5 quarts of oil instead of 4. This helps a little, but still there
is not really any way of preventing at least mild oil starvation to
the head, which makes for long term reliability issues.
Put simply, LS/Vtecs and CR/Vtecs blow up more often than
B18C1s,C3s,C5s that have the factory oil passage to the head.
Other differences:
CRANK: the LS + CRV cranks have a higher rod/stroke ratio than the
GSR + ITR. What this means: 1. You are going to make more torque
lower 2. You are more likely to crack a cylinder, push a piston
through a cylinder or have other problems related to engine geometry.
Compression: the 90-91 B18A LS with a b16a1 head on top gives you
approx 10.5:1 compression. The ITR runs 11.somthing, depending on
whether it is USDM or JDM I believe. Don't take these numbers as
gospel - they are off the top of my head. If you use the PR3 pistons
out of a B16A1 in a LS block with LS rods you will get about 11.5:1
compression with a b16a1 head (this I know because I thought about
doing it)
Cams: The ITR and CTR have more aggressive cams than the B16A1 + A2.
This makes a difference in the size, placement and duration fo your
powerband. I'm out of my league to answer specifics on the
differences, but I do know that the CTR cams are the most agressive,
and the ITR and CTR exhaust cams are identical.
hope that helps
Answer:
two words:
OIL FLOW
To make a LS/Vtec or CR/Vtec (non-vtec block w/ vtec head) you need
to tap + plug an oil passage in the head because it is not present on
non-vtec blocks. You then need to run a high temp line to carry oil
from your bottom end to the head. It is hard-impossible to make this
line carry as much oil as a vtec block's oil passageway feeding the
vtec head. As a result, LS/Vtec and CR/Vtec engines generally run
4.5 quarts of oil instead of 4. This helps a little, but still there
is not really any way of preventing at least mild oil starvation to
the head, which makes for long term reliability issues.
Put simply, LS/Vtecs and CR/Vtecs blow up more often than
B18C1s,C3s,C5s that have the factory oil passage to the head.
Other differences:
CRANK: the LS + CRV cranks have a higher rod/stroke ratio than the
GSR + ITR. What this means: 1. You are going to make more torque
lower 2. You are more likely to crack a cylinder, push a piston
through a cylinder or have other problems related to engine geometry.
3. You will not be able to rev a LS/Vtec as high as a GSR, ITR, B16A1
or CTR due to crank geometry.
Compression: the 90-91 B18A LS with a b16a1 head on top gives you
approx 10.5:1 compression. The ITR runs 11.somthing, depending on
whether it is USDM or JDM I believe. Don't take these numbers as
gospel - they are off the top of my head. If you use the PR3 pistons
out of a B16A1 in a LS block with LS rods you will get about 11.5:1
compression with a b16a1 head (this I know because I thought about
doing it)
Cams: The ITR and CTR have more aggressive cams than the B16A1 + A2.
This makes a difference in the size, placement and duration fo your
powerband. I'm out of my league to answer specifics on the
differences, but I do know that the CTR cams are the most agressive,
and the ITR and CTR exhaust cams are identical.
hope that helps
Posted by: David Blundell
on June 28, 2002 at 08:49:29.
just auto faqing n/m
Question:
i know someone explained this before, but i was confused, and have since
forgotten. so how do i know what "color" bearings to get for my first gen
b16a? i am going to replace the rod and main bearings. i seem to remember
one of the bearings have a bit of orange marked on the side, but im not
sure if that meant anything. thanks in advance. also, when i get the new
bearings, do i need to plastigage anything? or just a straight swap? thanks
gino
Answer:
blarg
Posted by: Gino Fultano
on July 03, 2002 at 15:48:54.
Re: b16a build up question stroker or not to stroker
Question:
cant use the ls internals. rl and ratio too tall for the short b16
block. You can use the b17 but you'd only be stroking .1 L. Not
worth it. Get a gsr or R short block or go b20 vtec w/ low comp
pistons and that would be easier
Answer:
okay i already have the b16a block w/aebs sleeves,eagle rods and je pistons.which crank should i get?
thanks
larrt
Posted by: mad scientist
on August 28, 2002 at 04:24:35.
Re: Can I have the post you did
If you want a perfect very long lasting finish, it is sometimes good
to sand to metal, but in the case of staying same color, I wouldn't
take the time. It is still going to look very good. To get the
entire car past the clear coat, it will probably take about an hour
of sanding. Here is the post:
As obviously most of us like to accomplish things by ourselves and
save money, here is one way to save a lot of money. Depending on the
shape of your cars body, this can usually be done in a weekend.
Step 1: Car Preparation
To have the final job look good, this is an important part. The body
doesn't need to be sanded down to metal, but this can be done. What
I have done on all my paint jobs is sand the whole car down with 240
grit to get down into the paint past the clear. Then work way to 600
grit. You don't want to get the surface too smooth so the paint has
something to stick too. This is the point where if there is any body
rust or dents to fix them. Usually light rust spots can be removed
with disk sander until you reach shinny metal. If this goes very
deep, most likely you will need to use some body filler to bring the
surface back to smooth, but I don't want to jump into body work, as
this could take up a whole write up itself. Once the entire body is
sanded and flat, you are ready for paint to tape off. There will be
a lot of paint dust over the car, so I suggest tacking before you
tape and also tack again right before you paint.
Step 2: Taping off
This is pretty simple. There are a few routes to take. You can get
rolls of taping paper to cover the car, or the less expensive
newspaper technique. Just make sure if you use newspaper that ALL
seams are taped with now opens that paint being sprayed can enter.
Remember that the paint is traveling with some pressure and if there
are any opening, it will find a way in there. You can use special
taping off masking tape that is wider and provides stick without
leaving any sticky residue. On the crx you can take off a lot of the
moldings so you get behind them and don't see and color differences
along seems. The rear window moldings can be removed and the rain
gutter molding can also be taken out. Remember to cover wheels and
headlights and the such. Things like the hood can be removed and
painted separately if desired. Although it is illegal to paint
outside of a controlled environment, people still do it. But to keep
things clean, make sure the garage or area you are doing it in is as
dust free as possible and you can put up tarps to keep air flow to a
minimum around the car.
Step 3: Getting the Paint
Most larger cities will have some sort of wholesale automotive
specialty paint supplier. The one where I live has a great
selection, and uses DuPont products. Luckily since the CRX is such a
small car and lots of window area, it doesn't take a whole lot of
paint to cover the car. You will need three things.
1. Primer, which comes in two types: sandable and nonsandable. The
sandable sprays a little thicker which is good for a body that may
have some imperfections which it will fill better and once you primer
you can sand down. The nonsandable prays thinner which is good for a
body that is already in good shape and will not require sanding after
the primer. The primer comes in two parts, the actual primer and its
activator. They come together in a package which I think comes in a
quart. This will cost somewhere between $40-$50. Also primer comes
in different color levels (grays to blacks). The employees there
will match you with a primer that will work well with your base.
2. Base Coat. The base is what the color of the car will come out
as. The store will have a huge book of every paint code from any
vehicle with little cards that display the color. I think it is
easier to pick from one of these rather than to do a custom color,
but if you want a custom color, you can bring in a sample of the
color from paper or anything and they can match it. The prices of
base very on the make up of the color. Some paints include metallics
and pearls, which will cost a little more. As for the amount of base
to purchase, I think that 1 1/2 quarts should work well. 1 1/2
quarts actually makes 3 quarts since you mix the base with base
activator in a 1:1 ratio. The base and base activator will cost
anywhere from $70-$150 depending on amount and type of color.
3. Clear Coat. There is basically only one option for clear that
you have. The clear also uses an activator. But with the clear, it
will needed to be mixed in a 4:1 ratio, being 4 parts clear to 1 part
activator. When mixing clear make sure you just mix enough for the
can you are praying with. Because the clear activates a lot faster
than either of the other 2. You will be able to use the clear once
activated for about 45 min. You will probably only need 2 quarts or
less of clear, but I bought a gallon size since it costs less per
quart if you get the full size, plus I paint a lot and use it up. I
think the gallon of clear and activator cost around $70 or less.
Step 4: Painting
Now that the car is taped off and ready to paint, you will need some
tools to do the painting. You will need a paint gun. Paint guns
range from $50-$500+. But you will be fine with the $60 gun from
menards or the auto stores or even the paint store will have them.
They have gravity feed guns and tank reservoir guns. Either will
work fine. You will also need an air compressor and hose. A larger
compressor tank will be better since you probably will start to lose
pressure with a smaller tank due to constant spraying. Pressure
should be regulated to 35-40psi You can use fancy regulators and
line regulators, but I didn't. Also make sure you don't have
condensation problems in the lines, it can cause some running. Also
have a can of paint thinner on hand to clean parts between primer,
base, and clear coats. Make sure you have a mask too, this paint is
not very friendly to the lungs and eyes. Now its time to paint. The
best conditions to paint are when air temperatures are around 65-75
F. And try to pick a day with low humidity. As high humidity can
cause orange peal (looks like surface of basketball) So don't pick a
day where it is raining outside. Painting process should go as
follows:
- Primer car with 2-3 thin coats waiting 15 min in-between coats
Mix Primer in 1:1 ratio with activator
If you plan on sanding primer, wait a few hours before sanding
- Base Coat will be next with 3-4 coats, so that the car looks even
in
color. Also waiting 15 min in-between coats. Wait 20 min before
clear.
- Clear Coat should be again around 2-4 coats, the more you put on,
the
more you can polish off after you are done. Usually 3 is the best
number. Wait again 15 in-between coats. Once completed wait 24
hours
before doing anything with the surface.
When painting with the gun, keep the gun always spraying directly
perpendicular to the surface. Keep the gun about 12 inches from the
surface and move with a smooth motion across the whole panels
surface. Start from one end and go all the way to the other end.
Don't start in the middle and DON'T spray the gun in one spot for a
period of time. This will cause runs with are BAD. Most likely if
you get a bad run you will have to wait for car to completely dry and
sand it down and then continue. So completely paint the whole car
with a coat and wait 15 min till you start again. It will be nice to
have friends help to prepare paint when the gun starts to run out.
Remember not to mix too much at one time because the activator will
start to run out. Both the primer and base coat activator times are
around 2 hours and clear is about 45 min. The primer coat is very
easy to do and will help you become comfortable with the gun without
being able to mess up really. When doing the base coat, make sure
that you cover the car uniformly, so the whole thing looks the same
tone. Have good lighting so you can see details. Remember when
mixing clear that it changes to a 4:1 ratio.
Step 5: Polishing
Now that the car is dry after around 12-24 hours of drying you are
ready to polish. This can be hard to master, but you can always take
a car to a professional to get polished. They sell special Velcro
polishing pads at the paint store to use with 5 or 7 rotary sanders
and compound to polish the car. If you do decide on doing it
yourself, remember to always keep the pad wet with compound, don't
want dry pad on surface. Don't put too much pressure on the pad.
Work in sections and just keep moving across the panel. I am not
very good at this, but had a friend help me on this, so I don't have
a whole lot of details on what to do.
Good luck with the process, it may seem kind of scary at first, but
once you get going its pretty fun. Have a good time with it and stay
safe, use masks. If you have any more question on things that I
probably missed, please post or write me an email. Hear is the page
of my crx through the past 2 years of sitting in the garage and the
process.
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~ajross/crx.htm
Posted by: Andy R
on September 03, 2002 at 11:17:53.
Autofaqing for posterity...
Question:
If you want a perfect very long lasting finish, it is sometimes good
to sand to metal, but in the case of staying same color, I wouldn't
take the time. It is still going to look very good. To get the
entire car past the clear coat, it will probably take about an hour
of sanding. Here is the post:
As obviously most of us like to accomplish things by ourselves and
save money, here is one way to save a lot of money. Depending on the
shape of your cars body, this can usually be done in a weekend.
Step 1: Car Preparation
To have the final job look good, this is an important part. The body
doesn't need to be sanded down to metal, but this can be done. What
I have done on all my paint jobs is sand the whole car down with 240
grit to get down into the paint past the clear. Then work way to 600
grit. You don't want to get the surface too smooth so the paint has
something to stick too. This is the point where if there is any body
rust or dents to fix them. Usually light rust spots can be removed
with disk sander until you reach shinny metal. If this goes very
deep, most likely you will need to use some body filler to bring the
surface back to smooth, but I don't want to jump into body work, as
this could take up a whole write up itself. Once the entire body is
sanded and flat, you are ready for paint to tape off. There will be
a lot of paint dust over the car, so I suggest tacking before you
tape and also tack again right before you paint.
Step 2: Taping off
This is pretty simple. There are a few routes to take. You can get
rolls of taping paper to cover the car, or the less expensive
newspaper technique. Just make sure if you use newspaper that ALL
seams are taped with now opens that paint being sprayed can enter.
Remember that the paint is traveling with some pressure and if there
are any opening, it will find a way in there. You can use special
taping off masking tape that is wider and provides stick without
leaving any sticky residue. On the crx you can take off a lot of the
moldings so you get behind them and don't see and color differences
along seems. The rear window moldings can be removed and the rain
gutter molding can also be taken out. Remember to cover wheels and
headlights and the such. Things like the hood can be removed and
painted separately if desired. Although it is illegal to paint
outside of a controlled environment, people still do it. But to keep
things clean, make sure the garage or area you are doing it in is as
dust free as possible and you can put up tarps to keep air flow to a
minimum around the car.
Step 3: Getting the Paint
Most larger cities will have some sort of wholesale automotive
specialty paint supplier. The one where I live has a great
selection, and uses DuPont products. Luckily since the CRX is such a
small car and lots of window area, it doesn't take a whole lot of
paint to cover the car. You will need three things.
1. Primer, which comes in two types: sandable and nonsandable. The
sandable sprays a little thicker which is good for a body that may
have some imperfections which it will fill better and once you primer
you can sand down. The nonsandable prays thinner which is good for a
body that is already in good shape and will not require sanding after
the primer. The primer comes in two parts, the actual primer and its
activator. They come together in a package which I think comes in a
quart. This will cost somewhere between $40-$50. Also primer comes
in different color levels (grays to blacks). The employees there
will match you with a primer that will work well with your base.
2. Base Coat. The base is what the color of the car will come out
as. The store will have a huge book of every paint code from any
vehicle with little cards that display the color. I think it is
easier to pick from one of these rather than to do a custom color,
but if you want a custom color, you can bring in a sample of the
color from paper or anything and they can match it. The prices of
base very on the make up of the color. Some paints include metallics
and pearls, which will cost a little more. As for the amount of base
to purchase, I think that 1 1/2 quarts should work well. 1 1/2
quarts actually makes 3 quarts since you mix the base with base
activator in a 1:1 ratio. The base and base activator will cost
anywhere from $70-$150 depending on amount and type of color.
3. Clear Coat. There is basically only one option for clear that
you have. The clear also uses an activator. But with the clear, it
will needed to be mixed in a 4:1 ratio, being 4 parts clear to 1 part
activator. When mixing clear make sure you just mix enough for the
can you are praying with. Because the clear activates a lot faster
than either of the other 2. You will be able to use the clear once
activated for about 45 min. You will probably only need 2 quarts or
less of clear, but I bought a gallon size since it costs less per
quart if you get the full size, plus I paint a lot and use it up. I
think the gallon of clear and activator cost around $70 or less.
Step 4: Painting
Now that the car is taped off and ready to paint, you will need some
tools to do the painting. You will need a paint gun. Paint guns
range from $50-$500+. But you will be fine with the $60 gun from
menards or the auto stores or even the paint store will have them.
They have gravity feed guns and tank reservoir guns. Either will
work fine. You will also need an air compressor and hose. A larger
compressor tank will be better since you probably will start to lose
pressure with a smaller tank due to constant spraying. Pressure
should be regulated to 35-40psi You can use fancy regulators and
line regulators, but I didn't. Also make sure you don't have
condensation problems in the lines, it can cause some running. Also
have a can of paint thinner on hand to clean parts between primer,
base, and clear coats. Make sure you have a mask too, this paint is
not very friendly to the lungs and eyes. Now its time to paint. The
best conditions to paint are when air temperatures are around 65-75
F. And try to pick a day with low humidity. As high humidity can
cause orange peal (looks like surface of basketball) So don't pick a
day where it is raining outside. Painting process should go as
follows:
- Primer car with 2-3 thin coats waiting 15 min in-between coats
Mix Primer in 1:1 ratio with activator
If you plan on sanding primer, wait a few hours before sanding
- Base Coat will be next with 3-4 coats, so that the car looks even
in
color. Also waiting 15 min in-between coats. Wait 20 min before
clear.
- Clear Coat should be again around 2-4 coats, the more you put on,
the
more you can polish off after you are done. Usually 3 is the best
number. Wait again 15 in-between coats. Once completed wait 24
hours
before doing anything with the surface.
When painting with the gun, keep the gun always spraying directly
perpendicular to the surface. Keep the gun about 12 inches from the
surface and move with a smooth motion across the whole panels
surface. Start from one end and go all the way to the other end.
Don't start in the middle and DON'T spray the gun in one spot for a
period of time. This will cause runs with are BAD. Most likely if
you get a bad run you will have to wait for car to completely dry and
sand it down and then continue. So completely paint the whole car
with a coat and wait 15 min till you start again. It will be nice to
have friends help to prepare paint when the gun starts to run out.
Remember not to mix too much at one time because the activator will
start to run out. Both the primer and base coat activator times are
around 2 hours and clear is about 45 min. The primer coat is very
easy to do and will help you become comfortable with the gun without
being able to mess up really. When doing the base coat, make sure
that you cover the car uniformly, so the whole thing looks the same
tone. Have good lighting so you can see details. Remember when
mixing clear that it changes to a 4:1 ratio.
Step 5: Polishing
Now that the car is dry after around 12-24 hours of drying you are
ready to polish. This can be hard to master, but you can always take
a car to a professional to get polished. They sell special Velcro
polishing pads at the paint store to use with 5 or 7 rotary sanders
and compound to polish the car. If you do decide on doing it
yourself, remember to always keep the pad wet with compound, don't
want dry pad on surface. Don't put too much pressure on the pad.
Work in sections and just keep moving across the panel. I am not
very good at this, but had a friend help me on this, so I don't have
a whole lot of details on what to do.
Good luck with the process, it may seem kind of scary at first, but
once you get going its pretty fun. Have a good time with it and stay
safe, use masks. If you have any more question on things that I
probably missed, please post or write me an email. Hear is the page
of my crx through the past 2 years of sitting in the garage and the
process.
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~ajross/crx.htm
Answer:
Autofaqing for posterity...
Posted by: Janos Lin
on September 03, 2002 at 21:45:35.
Re: Boost threshold vs. lag
Question:
Boost threshold: The rpm at which the turbo first produces positive
pressure.
Lag: The time it takes for the turbo to fill the piping (including
intercooler) between the compressor outlet and the intake manifold.
Boost threshold is most noticeable when you are launching in 1st
gear. Your car will accelerate like it's NA until you reach the
boost threshold. The time until your boost guage sees boost will
actually include lag as well. Boost threshold is dictated primarily
by the size of the turbo, but manifold and exhaust design play a role
as well.
Lag contributes primarily in situations where you have downshifted
into a corner and are now getting back on the gas to accelerate out.
If you've selected the right gear and the corner allows, you should
already be above your boost threshold. But you won't have boost as
soon as you get on the gas because the turbo is still filling the
piping. Lag is proportional to the volume of piping between the
compressor and intake manifold. So the shorter you can make this
piping, the lower your lag will be. This is also why there should be
an upper limit on charge pipe diameter. 2" piping will support over
200hp. Going larger will decrease flow losses marginally, but
increase your charge pipe volume exponentially.
So getting back to the flywheel. A lighter flywheel improves low to
mid range torque, which will allow the engine to get to the boost
threshold quicker. It may only be a fraction of a second, but when
you can operate at a point that has 50-100% more torque, you want to
get there as quickly as possible and stay there.
Hope that helps.
Gary
Answer:
Autofaqing...
Posted by: GJC
on September 16, 2002 at 18:54:03.
Do's and don'ts of lightening flywheel...
Question:
... when you lighten your stock flywheel? I have heard
extreme opinions that it is not safe to subject a stock
flywheel to such treatment. Others say it doesn't matter
if done correctly. So how can I do it correctly? Can any
decent machine shop do it or should I be looking for
something special. Thanks!
Answer:
DO: Do remove material from the backside of the flywheel, outside
edge first. Do make sure to to keep the flywheel balanced. Do remove
the thicker section around the outer 3 inches or so so that the
backside is nearly flat from center out to the edge.
DON'T: Don't remove anything from the front face. Don't take more
material off the backside that makes the flywheel thinner at any point
than stock. Don't go less than 11-12 lbs.
There ya go,
Gary
PS: This is autofaqed as well.
Posted by: GJC
on September 16, 2002 at 19:05:28.
Re: dash swap please help asap
Question:
swap over the dash harness from your civic to the crx dash...youll
see what i mean once you get the dash off.....
all the bolts should line up except the bottom middle bolt
Answer:
im not worried about the dash fitting.the dash wiring is not fitting in the fuse panel under the dash.what do i have 2 do.
Posted by: mad scientist
on September 16, 2002 at 21:27:34.
Autofaq'n it.....
Question:
just out of blind habit. You never know what is in a turbo, that you
don't want in your turbo, that might break loose and end up in your
end-seal or your bearing, and wear a groove.
When turbos heat up, they sometimes burn oil to a crisp, creating a
substance called "coke" that is essentially a dirty kind of diamond.
It's hard and nasty and gritty and sort of like oily black sand. If
sand would be a good addition to a turbo, then so would coke. But it
only forms where the extreme heat was, and it sort of clumps. A
perfectly good turbo could have coke deposits and run great and never
have a problem. But recently I bought a used turbo to look at
rebuilding it, a t25, and it was apparently in fine shape, no play,
except for the small problem that it was leaking badly. The only
problem was that the turbine-side end seal had apparently gotten a
small piece of coke under the sealing ring, only on the underside,
which wore a groove, which made it leak, which allowed oil to get
under the heat shield, which burned, which made more coke deposits,
which gouged the underside of the turbine wheel in a most hideous
fashion.
I could practically talk you through a break-down of that turbo, if
it's like my t25, but it might not be; there are apparently subtle
differences in a variety of applications. Instead, you could hit
www.turbocity.com and ask them. But even if yours is different from
mine, I'd bet dollars to detonations that yours is just as simple.
If so, it would be easy as pie for you to break it down and clean it,
just to be on the safe side. It might take you two or three hours
tops.
Before you do it, you will probably need:
-wrenches
-13 and 14 mm 6 pt sockets
-8mm 12 pt socket
-jeweller's screwdriver
-*huge* pair of snap-ring pliers
-*tiny* pair of snap-ring pliers (you might need a variety of tips
for it, 90 bend, and straight, and long)
-variety of "torx" shaped screwdriver bits
-small bent pointed instrument (such as the end of the tiny pair of
snap-ring pliers)
-solvent
-bright hand-sized flashlight or other bright inspection light
First, take off the bolts that attach the WG actuator to the
compressor housing. You'll see a *huge* snap ring. Get that out,
and the compressor housing is free. It may take some mild persuasion
to get it loose. Around the outside, just under the housing, is the
rubber seal ring. It's only meant to be a pressure seal, not an oil
seal. Couldn't hurt to clean it and generally check it out.
Then take off the bolts that attach the turbine housing
mount/retaining half-rings. The turbine housing is then easily
persuaded off.
What is left is the "cartridge". There might be a *triangular*
shaped knob on the turbine side, but don't be daunted. A regular 13
or 14 mm 6 pt. socket will fit it. The odd looking nut on the
compressor wheel might only be a regular 12 pt. star shape that will
exactly fit a 12 pt 8mm socket.
First thing to watch out for, is to make sure the compressor wheel
nut isn't left-handed. It probably is. In case it isn't obvious,
you have to turn a left-handed nut as if you were *tightening* it, if
you want to get it off. Couldn't hurt to ask Turbo City or other
trustworthy to be sure. I think most Garrett t2's, t25's, t3's etc.,
are all left-handed threads on the compressor wheel nut.
STOP!! Before you break the torque on the compressor wheel nut, MARK
THE TURBINE AND COMPRESSOR WHEELS IN THE SAME PLACE. Also mark the
nut on the compressor wheel side. When you reinstall everything, you
will align the marks again, and this will preserve the balancing of
the turbo. When you mark, it's probably best to score with a pointed
instrument, instead of with a marker, because the solvent you use to
clean everything might eat the mark off also.
Take off the nut. Compressor wheel will spin off with considerable
resistance. It's supposed to be a tight fit, don't worry. Just
don't try to get it straight off, there's a danger you will ding the
blades. The compressor wheels are only aluminum. Spin it off. The
shaft and center hole of the compressor wheel are both polished and
smooth, so don't worry about damaging anything by spinning it off.
It's just a tight fit. Turbo City says if any blades are bent, don't
try to straighten it; that it will crack and break under boost.
Once the compressor wheel is off, the turbine wheel can be
pulled/spun, and the entire center shaft will slide out the turbine
side, with a small *pop* as the turbine side end seal ring slips past
the end seal. Also the heat shield, just under the turbine wheel,
will come loose. A very sedate experience here, nothing spectacular
will happen. The turbine wheel and shaft are contiguous: forged as
one unit, apparently. Needless to say, if any blades are bent,
you've got a problem.
At this point, you'll be watching for any coke or oil residue. Mild
oiliness isn't a problem, but coking is.
Just under the compressor wheel is the oil chamber cover, held in
place by a medium sized snap ring. When it is off, pry off the oil
chamber cover. It should come free easily with a tiny screwdriver.
*just* under that is the rubber oil seal. Couldn't hurt to get it
out and clean it/check it. Inside the oil chamber is the thrust
bearing/compressor side end seal. Here is where you will need to
find the right size "torx" shaped bit. I don't know what size it
is. The three screws holding the brass thrust bearing retainer come
out easily, simple right-handed threads. Then the thrust bearing and
retainer will fall out, and the compressor-side shaft bearing will be
exposed. It can be slid out carefully with a small bent pointed
instrument. Under that is a *tiny* snap ring that retains the other
side of the compressor side shaft bearing. If you can get that out
without breaking it or gouging the bearing surface, good. That is
all for the compressor side.
Moving to the turbine side:
Once the shaft is freed, the only thing left on the turbine side is
the other shaft bearing. It is retained by another pair of *tiny*
snap-rings. The outer one is easy to get out with a suitably *tiny*
snap ring plier, and then the turbine side shaft bearing slides out
gently. If you can get the other snap ring out, great. Otherwise,
don't worry too much about it. Just make sure it's nice and clean
before you re-install everything. Once this is done, the center
section is ready to be cleaned. Soak it for a day if you have the
time, or else just use the solvent to clean and use your small
pointed instrument to search out/scrape loose any coke deposits.
Don't be shocked to find them. Like I say, they clump together.
Qtips would help too, but avoid leaving the cotton fibers caught on
anything. Not a big deal, except insofar as it is generally not good
to leave foreign matter of any kind in it.
Clean everything top to bottom, and put it all back together. If you
got it apart successfully, it will be a cakewalk to get it put back
together. This seems like a long dissertation, but once you get it
done in person, you'll see how *easy* it is. A child could do it.
Just don't forget anything; snap rings; rubber seals; heat
shield. Also, oil the bearings before you reinstall. And don't
forget to realign the wheel marks on turbine and compressor side. I
don't know what the torque spec is on the compressor nut, but it
doesn't matter, because you scored the nut too, and the thread has
only one entryway, and when you align all the marks, it will tighten
to the same place it was before. And if it tightens a little
farther, don't sweat it. The marks on the wheels are what is
critical to the balancing. And balancing itself is not a performance
issue: an unbalanced turbo might have a sharper whine, from high
order harmonics in the exhaust. And when the turbo is ready to put
on your car, when the entire installation is complete, disconnect the
center distributor wire so you get no spark to your plugs, and crank
over the engine a good fifty times, to fill up the turbo with oil.
Answer:
Nice post
Posted by: crxrocks
on September 17, 2002 at 17:35:50.
ST Sway Bar Tech (and update)
I know there's been some questions in the past about how to install the endlinks. Previously, i have provided a picture of how I installed my
endlinks. Just recently, i found out that I had installed the shock bracket wrong!
This did NOT cause any problems with handling in the past TWO YEARS i've had this installed incorrectly! However, being that I like to have
somewhat perfection, I have fixed it and here are the updated pics of how it SHOULD be installed.
Here's the previous picture:
[image]
[Image http://members.aol.com/hondacrxhf/images/suspension/swaybarlink.jpg]
Notice how the bracket is positioned, especially the holes for the endlink...
I've also have text on the pictures to help identify the holes on the rear sway bar and their functions:
[image]
[Image http://members.aol.com/sumosammm/images//RSBEndlink.jpg]
This picture is of the Passenger Side endlink looking towards the brakes.
[image]
[Image http://photos.napalm.net/RSBEndlink2.jpg]
Facing the rear of the car. This is how the bracket bolts to the shock. There's two holes for the bracket. removing the bolt and moving the
bracket is how to "fine tune" the sway bar.
[image]
[Image http://members.aol.com/sumosammm/images//RSBEndlinkTop.jpg]
This is a pic from the TOP of the endlink facing Down. Notice how the endlinks bolt to the bracket/sway bar
[image]
[Image http://members.aol.com/sumosammm/images//RSBEndlinkBottom.jpg]
Bottom view of the endlink bolted to the shock bracket. Near the bottom of the pic to the right you'll see a weld and another piece of the
bracket. That's the lip that prevents the bracket from shifting under hard cornering. It's suppose to hit the shock and not move anymore
However, i never had a problem with my swaybar moving the shock bracket. Either way, this is the proper mounting of the rear sway bar. I found
either way works and that the first pic was easier to adjust the sway bar.
This bar has basically 6 different settings. 3 settings on the bar, with 2 adjustments on the shock bracket. I've labeled the bar settings as "Soft",
"Neutral", "Firm" and the shock bracket as "Soft" and "Firm".
To get the car to rotate VERY easily, set the bar to:
Swaybar - "Firm"
Bracket - "Firm"
To get the car to act almost like stock:
Swaybar - "Soft"
Brackey - "Soft"
My car is currently set at "Neutral-Soft".
Hope this helps.
Posted by: Driven
on September 20, 2002 at 09:30:22.
what about master cylinder
Question:
I would swap the prop valve.... When i first did my rear disk
brakes .. I didnt do them either till one day it was snowing and
bam .. hit the brakes and the rears lock out ... I swapped it and
now its balanced again
Answer:
okay so there is a benifit using the p/valve.but what the master cylinder
Posted by: mad scientist
on September 26, 2002 at 14:41:07.
your car sucks
Question:
engine coolant temperature sensor, which can effect the engine revs.
Replace dat sucka!
Answer:
trade it for a 1989 crx si that was on fire once or maybe twice.i
understand both cars suck but u want another rex right?by the way
warren needs the title b4 the car gets towed.
thanks
larry
Posted by: mad scientist
on September 26, 2002 at 20:47:21.
keep on truckin
Question:
everyone I know (at work and home at least) tells me I'm on crack for putting somuch
money into my car, but when it's done, and I can haul ass with any fat-bottomed
overweight underpowered car on the road and I can fix it myself without a problem, then
we'll see who laughs last. Of course, I wouldn't mind if the car didn't LEAK, but what
can ya do sometimes.
Answer:
ahh you see this site was created for guys like us.guys that dont give a damn what the outside thinks about our crx.owning a crx is
like no other car.owning a crx is kinda like belonging to a family.what other car owner feels the need to nod as you pass a fellow crx
owner.the feeling we have runs through our veins like the fuel in our crxs.my moto is fast is only limited by our wallet size.look guys
heres a little word of advise from phillys local insane rexer.when people bust your shit bout how much money you drop in your car step
back and picture there face when there broke ass non-crx is getting there shit handed to them buy your little money pit.that look
makes it all worth while.
Posted by: mad scientist
on October 16, 2002 at 14:16:04.
Wow! Thanks guys! Great input!
Question:
Pick up a new set of cam seals and possibly a valve cover gasket set.
You are going to want a new set of head bolts as well as yours have
stretched. Remove the 2 bolts on the intake manifold support. Its
probably easier to get these from below. Drain the coolant and Remove
the lines from the head. Remove fuel lines and the Throttle cable.
Unplug all wires going to the head. Remove the plastic cover over the
Timing belt. Remove the cap screws holding the valve cover on. Remove
the bolts holding the cam in. I would start on the drivers side and
work towards the distributor. You may have to knock them slightly
with a rubber mallet or the end of a screw driver to get them free.
remove the rockers. Make sure that you keep the rockers in the
correct order for reinstallation. Next, remove the head bolts. These
will be a BITCH! you will need a large torque wrench. loosen them all
completely. If you can pull them out, do so now. Try to pull the head
straight up. If it comes free, GREAT! if not, get a large screwdriver
as a pry tool. DO NOT stick the screwdriver in between the head and
block and pry, instead find a leverage point on the outside of the
block/head. Usually there are some lines casted into the block that
will help. Be creative. Careful pry the head off of the block. Expect
coolant and oil. Make sure there is nothing more holding the head
into the car and remove.
Peel off the gasket. Place paper towels in the coolant channel around
the cylenders to soak up and oil and crap in the coolant. eave the
towels in there for now and grab a razor blade and scrape away the
gasket material that is left. Use paint thinner to clean the deck and
blcok when you are done. While the head is off, carefully clean off
as much carbon as you can. The super hard stuff is fine, leave that,
but remove any loose deposits. When you are finished, remove the
paper towels.
Place the clean gasket on the block and CAREFULLY insert the metal
dowels back into the oil channels. Line up the head and place it on
the block. Use a little bit of oil on the new rod bolts and drop them
in. Follow the directions in the helm, following the order and torque
settings. Remember they are all tightened to a certain spec, then you
go back and tighten them to a 2nd.
Replace all of the hoses and connectors that you took off from above.
Place the rockers back down and drop the cam in. Place the cam
ratainers back on and tighten. Be carefl with these bolts as they
break easy. Turn the cam so it is facing straight up. There should be
a small hole near the cam gear end of the cam that you can place a
drill bit into. This will lock the cam at the TDC mark. Loosen the
tensioner bolt and turn the crank so its at TDC. Basically the crank
pully has 4 marks. 3 are close together, one is a lil over an inch
away. Line up that forth (single) mark with the alignment arrow and
pull the timing belt over the cam gear. This is tricky, so it may
take a little while before you get it right. They must be dead on or
you will lose lots o' power. When you get it correct, tighten the
tensioner and fill the fluids. Start the car and hope that your
timing is right. My bets are on the fact that you will need to re-do
the timing belt a few times until its right.
Good luck!
Answer:
AutoFaq.
Chris
Posted by: crxrocks
on October 18, 2002 at 13:47:15.
Re: any low cost good quality parts for 91 crx dx
Question:
ant info on getting parts for an engine tranny swap, suspension kit,
brake upgrage, and body kits would be really appreciated
thx
da greedy one
Re: anyone got a h22a really what about this
Question:
dude. i looked into it. it can be done. but not for anything less
than a fortune. also, the one quote i remember from one of the sites
is. "This swap should only be attempted by someone that has no
reguard for the structural stability of their CRX." It's big power,
but only in a straight line. Good luck to ya though...
Answer:
hey do you got any info on that swap like was the swap gonna cost
more than 5k and i was thinking the stress couldnt be worse than a
turbo b18c let me know thx
Posted by: mark * da greedy one
on November 03, 2002 at 21:28:29.
Re: anyone got a h22a really what about this
Question:
The total parts cost if you get a motor for 2500 is about 4500 and
then labor unless you do it your self but youhave to be good with a
welder and have a BIG shoe horn to get that sucker in there. Not
impossible but not easy either. But have fun and dont do anything
that would considered "ghetto" or "rigged".
Answer:
do you know who might be willing to do the install for me i am in
cali but would travel some for a good shop thx
Posted by: mark * da greedy one
on November 03, 2002 at 22:50:00.
Re: Engine Swap/Mods
Question:
Hey, first time here..looks like a pretty sweet site..anyways i got two
questions if any of you could help me out itd be very appreciated. Im look
in into doin an engine swap down the road sometime and im just wondering
what your guys' opinion on the best one to do would be. In all ways,
performance, cost but overall best bang for the $$$. Second its ogn to be
a while before i can afford this so im tryin to think of some performance
mods that a relatively cheap to tide me over until i have enough. I have
an 88 CRX DX with k&n filter (dont do much but it looks cool :)) and a
borla muffler soon to be custom catbacked. thanks a bunch
Answer:
i am in the same situaton as you i found these sites
http://www.jspecjdm.net/
http://www.racingworks.com/vtec.html
from what i can tell the sky is the limit of the pocket book and it
depends on what you want you want total race a streetable daily
driver or anything in the middle also im my state i got dam smog
rules lol so there are many things to take into consideration
i know the easiest engine swap and most comon seems to be the b18c
swap
Posted by: mark * da greedy one
on November 03, 2002 at 23:28:18.
Re: I hate the look busy crap.
Question:
Sometimes there really is nothing to do but sit back and r-e-l-a-x. Instead I'm telling the
workers under me to keep sweeping or look busy, even though they just are looking busy
or sweeping up nothing. When I was in their position, I got my assignment, did it to the
best of my ability, then moved on to what they told me next. But now I'm the one telling
people what to do and I'd rather just keep myself busy instead of finding stuff (often
stupid stuff) for them to do. And when I don't have to worry about someone looking over
my shoulder, that's when it's the best.
Ah well, what can ya do? If it was supposed to
be more enjoyable than not, it wouldn't be called work. Not that some people don't
dislike it, but then it ain't just work.
Answer:
you can allways tell them they are not childeren and you aint their
mother they know their job and what is expected and you know what
you expect of them lol
but then they wouldnt need a boss right well good luck
Posted by: mark * da greedy one
on November 03, 2002 at 23:30:49.
Re: A bullet?
Question:
Stupid CRX has cost me more than $5000.....
Answer:
dude what did you do to it like is that engine only or other mods
also
Posted by: mark * da greedy one
on November 03, 2002 at 23:49:05.
FAQ
Question:
go here:
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/4gtech.html
do research...look around...we get way too many people here lately
that are posting their first question and ask what is the best swap
for _______, or how much horsepower can i make with _______, or how
hard is it to do _______.
LOOK AROUND.
At this link, you will find numerous sites that deal with
Hondas/Parts/info/etc...
http://www.usol.com/~carpaydm/Links/
And you will see a Page that says "START HERE", concerning Hybrid
swaps (here is the link in case you don't want to take the time to
look around):
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/
Please...no more questions until you do your research.
Answer:
for anyone else who wants to reply this way
Posted by: JesseR
on November 19, 2002 at 10:44:02.
auto faq
Question:
This is a copy of a pervious post I made on spark advance. The
points raised below are correct, but this does explain the situation
in a bit more detail. While it does not cover the topic of reshaping
the spark curve for more retard at high rpm, it does make it clear
why this would be beneficial.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Combustion is not an instantaneous event, it takes time for the flame
to propagate through the chamber. This is why we need to start
combustion well before the piston reaches TDC and starts back down,
beginning the power stroke. The more we advance the spark (whithin
reasonable limits), the more complete the combustion at TDC, and the
greater the peak cylinder pressure and thus the greatest torque
production. As small engines in general and honda's in particular
need all the torque they can get, this is usually just the ticket for
a honda.
There is no free lunch though. As we dial in more spark lead, a
greater amount of cylinder pressure is generated before the piston
reaches TDC. The pressure opposes the piston's motion until TDC is
reached, hurting efficiency. This effect shows up at high rpm, as
the greater torque production counteracts it effectively at lower
rpms. In essence big spark lead acts as a "brake" at high rpm.
The bottom line is more spark lead almost always makes more bottom
and mid range power, for which it trades a little top end. It is
unwise to run huge spark lead on a truly high rpm motor (say 10K
rpm), and likewise a bit of a waste to run only stock spark lead on a
motor that spends most of it's time below 7000. But the dyno or the
stopwatch is the way to judge.
Raising octane does slow flame propagation, both allowing and
requiring more spark lead. This is beneficial for power, but it is
not the only effect at work. As octane is raised the thermal energy
contained by a given volume of gasoline decreases, hurting power.
For motors that don't need high octane to control detonation and
permit healthy amounts of spark lead, it just hurts power accross the
board due to the lesser amount of energy released per combustion
cycle. Most engines are however detonation limited, so in most cases
increased octane is beneficial, at least to a point.
Personally I favor LOTS of ignition advance on D motor hondas. I ran
my a6, ZC, and z6/y8 motors full lock advance. All the way. They
run strongest like this. The small amount of top end they lose is
dwarfed by the large increase in low end power. It does require good
gas (I use 93 octane), my current z6/y8 motor will ping on 91 with my
set-for-kill spark lead.
Regards,
Steve
Answer:
as posted by steve (sahrens@mindspring.com)
Combustion is not an instantaneous event, it takes time for the flame
to propagate through the chamber. This is why we need to start
combustion well before the piston reaches TDC and starts back down,
beginning the power stroke. The more we advance the spark (whithin
reasonable limits), the more complete the combustion at TDC, and the
greater the peak cylinder pressure and thus the greatest torque
production. As small engines in general and honda's in particular
need all the torque they can get, this is usually just the ticket for
a honda.
There is no free lunch though. As we dial in more spark lead, a
greater amount of cylinder pressure is generated before the piston
reaches TDC. The pressure opposes the piston's motion until TDC is
reached, hurting efficiency. This effect shows up at high rpm, as
the greater torque production counteracts it effectively at lower
rpms. In essence big spark lead acts as a "brake" at high rpm.
The bottom line is more spark lead almost always makes more bottom
and mid range power, for which it trades a little top end. It is
unwise to run huge spark lead on a truly high rpm motor (say 10K
rpm), and likewise a bit of a waste to run only stock spark lead on a
motor that spends most of it's time below 7000. But the dyno or the
stopwatch is the way to judge.
Raising octane does slow flame propagation, both allowing and
requiring more spark lead. This is beneficial for power, but it is
not the only effect at work. As octane is raised the thermal energy
contained by a given volume of gasoline decreases, hurting power.
For motors that don't need high octane to control detonation and
permit healthy amounts of spark lead, it just hurts power accross the
board due to the lesser amount of energy released per combustion
cycle. Most engines are however detonation limited, so in most cases
increased octane is beneficial, at least to a point.
Personally I favor LOTS of ignition advance on D motor hondas. I ran
my a6, ZC, and z6/y8 motors full lock advance. All the way. They
run strongest like this. The small amount of top end they lose is
dwarfed by the large increase in low end power. It does require good
gas (I use 93 octane), my current z6/y8 motor will ping on 91 with my
set-for-kill spark lead.
Regards,
Steve
Posted by: Gino Fultano
on November 20, 2002 at 18:03:46.
Re: im here in North carolina and cant find any.
Answer:
I am in S.C. Do you know anyone with a 86 Crx Civic Si they want to
sell?
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on November 25, 2002 at 18:32:49.
Re: wgat i plan to do!
Question:
Swapping an engine is a big project and it is best to go into it with a complete set of
instructions. A good (or even adequate) shop manual is the best place for detailed
instructions on the removal and installation of an engine. If you don't have one and
are in a hurry then you might want to go buy a haynes or chiltons manual at the local auto
parts store. You could also probably find one at the local public library. The best
manual you can get is the Helm manual (http://www.helminc.com)
but getting it will
probably take some time. I think someone might even have scanned the Helm manual and
put it on line, but I don't know the address.
What exactly are you planning with the
car?
Good luck,
Cameron
Answer:
I am planning to get a frame from another crx. I have an 86 Si. I am
going to do a complete transfer body, engine, tranny everything. My
frame is shot but my parts are still really good. I plan to upgrade
my parts but i want to transfer everything over to another frame
first. It is going to take to long, I want to get together a group of
people to complete the project. I know alot about the car, but so
much I need to find out as well. Thanks for your advice.
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on November 26, 2002 at 12:06:22.
Re: Need to get Helms Manuel!
Question:
NOt in reply to this, but check your mail....
Answer:
do you have AIM if so what is your screenname?
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on November 26, 2002 at 20:40:27.
Re: My brother and I did something similar
Question:
We took a hurting 90 hf with a decent frame and a wrecked 90 Si and made one car out of it. It
took us a little over a year, but it is a very nice car now. We also wore out my Helm manual.
The online manual won't do you much good because it is for 88-91 CRXs.
Good luck
with your project.
Cameron
Answer:
Thanks for the advice is the Helms hard to get?
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on November 26, 2002 at 21:20:17.
Re: where in SC? I am in Greenville. n/m
Answer:
Rock Hill I bet your looking too!!!!
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on November 29, 2002 at 18:21:55.
Re: He Sent you an OBD1 Motor.....KEEP IT
Question:
You dont need to even try to use the harness that comes with it
anyways....you need to use the harness that comes with YOUR
CAR...youll need to find some OBD0 B series injectors and extend the
map sensor wires to reach the one on the throttle body....
Be happy you got a OBD1 motor as they cost more(i hope you didnt pay
more for it) they are newer motors and make slightly more HP
Answer:
no i didnt pay more for it, another question what do i need to do
with the distributor do i have to replace it?????
Posted by: 88crx
on December 21, 2002 at 17:15:16.
Re: what ECU did he send you?
Question:
Cause you might need to convert to OBD1...
Answer:
it came with the obd1 ecu but he replaced it with and obd0
Posted by: 88crx
on December 21, 2002 at 17:16:50.
Re: Whoa Momma!
Question:
Is this what it's supposed to look like?
[Image http://phishee.com/jenn1.jpg]
[Image http://phishee.com/jenn2.jpg]
Viewed with MS Internet Explorer 5 on Mac OS 9.1.
- C
Answer:
What I do not get what you are asking?
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on December 28, 2002 at 20:27:10.
No that is jacked!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Question:
Is this what it's supposed to look like?
[Image http://phishee.com/jenn1.jpg]
[Image http://phishee.com/jenn2.jpg]
Viewed with MS Internet Explorer 5 on Mac OS 9.1.
- C
Answer:
It does not look like that when I open it up. Weird I will have to
open it from someone elses computer too see!!!! thanks for your
concern~JENN~
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on December 28, 2002 at 20:31:33.
Re: What is up with the AutoFaq
Question:
Does anyone check it out anymore or has it become Jean Phillips personal
FAQ and archive? Does anyone clean it up everynow and then? Does anything
in the AutoFAQ eventually get put in the FAQ?
Dont click the AutoFAQ checkbox just becuase you dont know what it does.
If you do you will just clutter up the AutoFAQ with junk
Answer:
The autofaq wasn't meant to be a transitionary place for the FAQ. It
is its own thing. It will never be cleaned up. I try to yell at
people who click the boxes absentmindedly.
John
Posted by: John Moeller
on January 04, 2003 at 01:21:47.
Re: nice
Question:
ZC block with crank 80 lbs
B18A block with crank 105 lbs
B16A block with crank 105 lbs
None of the blocks had rods pistons etc..
B18A head no cams or valve cover just valves and springs 31 lbs
ZC head no cams or valve cover just valves and springs 25 lbs
Just thought some of you might be interested
Answer:
very interesting.. Guess it shows how much of the engine weight can
be attributed to other things (like the exhaust manifold)..
autofaqing..
Posted by: John Moeller
on January 08, 2003 at 16:02:20.
Re: Which one?
Question:
The steering joint or the radius arm? The steering one is closer to
the door, the radius arm is on the bottom.
Also, where are you located? Mabey there is someone here who lives
near you that can lend a hand.
Answer:
Not real sure will eventually do both!!! I am in Rock Hill, SC
~jenn~
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 12, 2003 at 17:00:44.
Re: Doing jobs like this...
Answer:
Thanks!!!!!
~jenn~
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 13, 2003 at 08:10:52.
Re: Need tips on Ball Joints????
Question:
Unless you are lowered and need adjustable ones-how about stock. They
actually do last a very long time.
Answer:
Well I talk to the guy I bought it from, he said they need to be
replaced. How long do most last??
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 13, 2003 at 10:31:35.
Re: Join the club, sista'....
Question:
I've been fighting a problem on my '91 Turbo ZC for 6 months now....
Have you been following my threads with my problems and the things
I've tried troubleshooting and swapping? Maybe try some of the same
things on your car...
Also check for any vacuum leaks (hoses, etc)...
Ricky
Answer:
Thanks I will try, do you have any suggestions on the things I should
try first??????
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 15, 2003 at 17:24:09.
Re: Got my CRX HOT WHEELS Tunerz car yesturday...
Question:
I probably should have kept this one boxed up since the condition
was perfect. Thanks Eric.
Anyway, I decided that I wanted to get a closer look at the
detail. At first I was really impressed, plastic lights, nitros
system on passanger side floor, disc brakes with visible
calipers, mirrors with reflective stickers that look like real
mirrors, descent looking tach. All around a pretty cool and
detailed car, until I poped the hood. The detail is krap. I
have little 1:64 models from Muscle Machines that have ten times
better detail. My MM Supra has different color engine parts,
including chrome twin turbos, a yellow strut tower bar. Turn it
over and it has a painted exaust, and painted lower sway bar.
The intereior is awesome. It is all painted and detailed, down
to the 2 12" mtx subs in the back and the indash cd player. I am
very disappointed in Hot Wheels. These cars are 1:18 scale.
They should have a lot greater detail than a car that is 1:64
scale, but it didn't even come close.
I don't want to complain too much, because it is a pretty sweet
looking car. Makes me miss my CRX more and more every day she
isn't home.
Answer:
I got one too! I was dissapointed as well with the engine detail, I
love the paint job though. Is yours the yellow, white, and green????
And you said that you have others, like smaller models??? like
matchbox or what??? Where did you find them???
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 16, 2003 at 07:34:38.
Re: I want to buy a CRX TODAY!!
Question:
If there is anyone selling a Crx (1988 or up , but I will take an earlier
model!!) in the Georgia area, I am willing to buy it today!! Please if
anyone is looking to sell or knows someone who is please let me know!!
Thanx for any information!!
Sam
Answer:
i got 86 si, chassis broke in the back, a good welder could fix it.
Engine is good. The alt. needs to be installed(I have it) and needs a
new battery. www.81x.com/jennscrx/crx101 it is the white one, on the
first page
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 16, 2003 at 07:37:47.
another question
Question:
I was like that for about 3 days and it was great. not for everyday
stuff but for a little while it was awesome. tunnels and overpasses
were better than ever open header at 8k. An what header did he order
and did he have to do anything with the 02 sensors?
TIA, Jason.
Answer:
Is it a simple thing to take off, never did it before????
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 16, 2003 at 09:25:41.
Re: Autozone, Advanced Auto...I think they are $5-$8..
Question:
Try the autoparts stores first. There's will more likely me
in better condition. No crx is available yet. The web site
hasn't even been updated with the "import tuner" collection.
The company is Muscle Machines. They are the same size as
match box or hot wheels(1:64) but the detail is stunning.
Mine has mini-nonworking-discs behind the rims, which are
also sporting real rubber. I'll post there web page,
unfortunately it isn't going to help you very much.
http://www.musclemachines.com
I wish I had more info. I can give you the list of available
cars.
00 CIVIC HB
01 FORD FR200
02 ACURA RSX TYPE-S
01 SUBARU WRX
00 NISSAN SKYLINE GT-R
97 TOYOTA SUPRA
All come in two different paint schemes and may differ a
little. I do know that there are at least two of every car.
And yeas I do have the white, yellow, and green Hot Wheels
CRX. It is the only color combo they make. I want to put
tiny airbags on mine and maybe even a little motor and turn
it into a real remote control drag car. Mind as well put a
mini bumbin' stereo in it too. lol
Later
Answer:
That would be sweet, if you really ever do that, let me know what you
did!!!!!
Jphillips14@poetic.com
Posted by: Jenn Phillips
on January 16, 2003 at 13:11:43.
Update on D16 JRSC adapter to ZC cylinder head
As many here probably know I've been planning on adapting my modded JRSC
kit to fit the ZC motor. Well, it's nearly complete.....
I first started of with a piece of 7075 aluminum, 4" wide, 1/2" thick.
Ordered an 18" length of it. Depending on where you get this particular
grade of aluminum, it will be priced anywhere between costly, and your
arm, leg, and half of your heart. Shop around for this stuff. I happened
to have an "in" with a steel supplier who had an "in" with an aluminum
supplier. Retail on this 18" piece was around $160.
Then next thing I did was overlay the D16A6 intake manifold gasket over
the ZC intake gasket, and once they were sufficently lined up with
eachother, I stuck them together with some liquid gasket. I then (VERY
carefully) transfer punched the holes from both of the gaskets onto my
piece of aluminum. Alignment of these holes is obviously critical, so you
need to take your time doing this. I then drilled the ZC patterned punch
marks in the adapter to the exact same size holes as are found in the ZC
intake manifold. (Strangely enough, 2 of the holes were smaller than the
rest in the ZC intake manifold) Next I drilled and tapped the D16A6
patterned punch marks in the adapter plate to accept the factory studs
from the cylinder head. In the end, the studs will be turned into the
adapter plate just as they are in the cylinder head.
The next task was to place the D16 gasket on the appropriate side of the
adpater and ink mark the runner ports. The ZC runner ports were marked
the same way on the other side. I then put the adapter in a vise on our
Mill and drilled as large a hole as I could through the D16A6 side of the
adapter to remove as much material as safely possible to eliminate as much
grinding as I could. You can guess what the next thing to come was.
Taking an air grinder and an aluminum carbide and matching the gross
mismatch of the D16A6 on one side of the adapter those the ZC's much
larger ports on the other side. To keep things simple, when I overlayed
the gaskets, I aligned what would be the bottom of the runners of both
gaskets so at least the bottom of the ports in the adapter would not have
to be tapered, and airflow would be as uninterupted as possible on the
bottom of the runners when the air leaves the blower manifold and enters
the ZC cylinder head. My advise to anyone trying this is to use a lot of
ink where you are grinding so you can keep a close eye on where you are
removing the material from. As a result of this, I didn't miss once, and
the ports are 99% finished. I've already finished the ports with emery
clotch and scotchbrite and all I need to do is recheck the port alignments
to make sure the air leaving the blower won't be running into a lip on the
adpater plate where material wasn't removed enough.
The next step is to deal with the water that travels through the intake
manifold flange. The ZC and the D16A6 water "jackets" if you will, do not
even remotely match up. As it turns out, this was a good thing, as all I
will have to do is remove a little material from the D16A6 blower flange
to clear a barbed to NPT brass fitting that will be threaded into the
adapter plate to align with the water jacket in the ZC cylinder head. SO,
the idea here was to prevent ANY water from having to travel through the
JR blower intake manifold at all. (Those savvy to what I'm onto here know
that my final plan is to use Hondata's D16Z6 intake manifold heatshield
gasket. Every little thing counts in this game, and I won't be skipping
any opportunities to gank a few more horsepower out of this setup.) I've
already drilled and tapped the adapter for the appropriately sized barbed
fitting so the factory "U" shaped hose can be reused. I also had to flip
the adapter up on end and clamp it into a vise on the Mill so I could
drill down into the adapter in line with this water jacket to arrange for
the other brass fitting for the throttle body / EACV water hose. SO, that
smaller barbed fitting actually will point directly up towards the hood if
you can picture that. Since the adapter is only 1/2" thick, I had to be
very careful to drill and tap down the very center of the adapter......
What's next? Recheck the port alignments. Then mill into the outer edge
of the adapter plate where the ZC patterned holes are to make some flat
countersinks so that when the adapter is installed, it will slide onto the
cylinder head just as the factory intake manifold did. Then secure it in
place using the factory nuts, which will drop down below the surface that
the blower manifold will sit on, thanks to the flat countersinks. The
final step will be to knock about .005" off of each side of the adapter
plate to ensure a good seal between all of the gaskets and surfaces
involved.
All of this sounds like a lot, but I only have about 10 hours invested.
When you have a machine shop at your disposal things go rather quickly.
I'll keep everyone posted. Of course, dyno numbers will be available in
the end. The skinny on the setup goes as follows.
ZC motor
3" cold air intake with the typical K&N filter
Endyn MOdded JRSC kit
2.5" mandrel throttle body to bypass housing tube, which I will make to
use the B16 throttle body.
3" blower pulley
92-95 crank pulley
Kamikazee header with 2.5" collector
2.5" mandrel exhaust with Magnaflow "mufflers"
Some form of programmable engine management. Probably Zdyne Gold and 450s
Bosch fuel pump in tank
Commandflo fuel pressure mod
air / fuel, fuel pressure, and boost gauges
My D16A6 back in the day put 157 hp and 137 torque to the wheels @ 5-6 psi
of boost, with only a few bolt ons while using JR's crude fuel
management. The higher revving better breathing ZC should make a great
candidate for this hybrid blower project with the proper engine management
and tuning done.
So, would anyone care to toss out some guesses at what horsepower and
torque figures I'll end up with? I've made my own estimates, though I
won't publically announce them..
Adam
why don't you...?
Spend the money on making your car FASTER instead of looking more gay?
the last thing we need is another CRX to lose its natural beauty!
damn verify....
Question:
I don't really understand what you are getting at.
86-89 integra knuckles are totally different than 90-93 integra / 88-
91 Civic CRX. The calipers and rotors interchange, but that's it.
Facts:
86-89 integra knuckles bolt right onto 84-87 Civic/CRX's - no problem.
90-93 integra knuckles will bolt onto 88-91 Civic/CRX's, but there
will be guaranteed issues. It might appear to work, but it certainly
isn't right.
Civic EX knuckles are the ONLY bolt on (no suspension geometry
issues, no steering rack/tie rod end issues) big brake knuckles for
the 88-91 Civic/CRX. EX knuckles should work with 88-91 HF upper A
arms no problem.
SiR knuckles are basically 90-93 integra - The SiR uses integra front
and rear crossmembers, and NO 90-93 integra crossmembers will NOT
work on a US civic/CRX. The SiR's front structure is not the same as
US civic/crx's.
Answer:
autofaqing
Posted by: Tyson
on February 26, 2003 at 17:46:20.
dizzy rebuild
Question:
In no particular order:
If you need to tap the distributer assembly with a hammer for any
reason, REMOVE THE IGNITER FIRST. It is not nessesary to remove it
for the job, but it very sensitive to shock. This lessen cost me $85.
The bits to remove the security torx screws are available from any
tool truck. Matco, Snap-on, Mac, and so on.
The cylinder position reluctor: Just drive out the roll pin to
remove. To take it off of the shaft, I put two square shaft
screwdrivers under it and hung it in a vise. It just needs to be
supported while tapping the shaft through.
Bearing: Shatter the outer race by squeezing it in a vice. Cut the
inner raceoff with a Dremel. Slot it down close to the shaft and open
it up with a screwdriver in the slot with a twisting motion.
Mark your shaft so you know exactly where the new bearing goes. It
tough to move after assembly.
The pickup coil needs to be real close to the relucter. A business
card thickness is about right. Rotate the shaft with your fingers and
you should feel a magnetic pull at each vane. If not, move the pickup
coil closer.
I needed a new cap gasket due to age. Only available from honda.
Thats all, hope it helps.
Answer:
autofaqin
Posted by: ef8gripdrift
on February 26, 2003 at 20:40:16.
Re: What is the average life of a stock clutch?
Question:
Well, depends on how it has been driven. If the car was ALWAYS
babied, never driven hard, has never beed on a hill riding the
clutch, and was driven by someone who actually knew how to drive a 5
speed, it COULD last 200k+. But, in everyday practice, they last
between 50-100k.
A good way to test the life expantcy of your clutch, go about 30
MPH. Put the car in 5th gear, rev it to 6500 RPM, and sidestep the
clutch. IT should take less that 2 seconds to fully slow the motor
down. A wore out clutch will take longer, I've seen them never
fall...lol. My clutch (ACT HDSS) takes about 1/4 of a second. That
help at all?
Answer:
well, my crx had *NO* clutch left when I bought it (I guess I should
have drove the car before I bought it, but I knew the guy selling it
and had drove it a couple months before) the car also had developed a
high idle (about 4000 rpm) in which the guy was driving it with, I'm
sure that contributed to the dead clutch considering it was the stock
clutch with 150k and the guy wasn't real good driving a 5 spd. I
picked up a nice excedy clutch, which I'm in the middle of installing
now (working 2 jobs doesn't leave much tinkering time) and I think I
found the culprit of the high idle, the lower throttle body butterfly
seems to stick partally open when closed, I would imagine it would
cause a hideously high idle, I'm going tommarrow to pick up a
junkyard throttle body with a warranty, I hope it rectifies my problem
Posted by: katulu
on March 02, 2003 at 13:02:27.
I got only 2 pics
My camera was dying out. Mine's a torino as well, I LOVE the damn
thing. There were a couple of problems that just needed a little
creative drilling. First, I took the stock seat rails and bolted the
rear stock hole to the rear hole on the seat. Then I drilled out a
hole on each rail to match the holes on the sparco. Used a small drill
bit at first to make sure the hole lined up right, then widened it to
about 5/16ths, maybe a little more.
Next problem was that the sparco mounts are about an inch and a
quarter too slim for the stock CRX mount location. I took a steel
plate, 14"x2" 12gauge steel, and marked off on one corner with a
marker where the rear seat rail bolts in. Drilled it out, bolted it
in, and marked where the front one is for the sparco, drilled it out.
Next, and it helps to have a spare stock seat with the rails still on,
I measured the distance from the center of the rail to car bolt hole
on the left rail to the right rail, for both the stock and the sparco.
I think it came to be about 13 5/8 for the sparco and 14 7/8 for the
stock. That meant drilling another set of holes about 1 1/4" apart
from the first one. Did like the first holes, marked one 1 1/4" away
(remember, it's from center of the hole to center of the hole) and
drfilled the rear hol, bolted it in, and then marked and drilled the
front hole.
Bolting it in was a little tricky. The plate got bolted to the rail by
a 8x1.25 threaded bolt, 15mm long. Then the plate got bolted to the
seat with another 8x1.25 bolt, 30mm long, with a nut between the plate
and the seat to space it out. I personally put the spaced rail on
theright side of the seat, that way it would be spaced out from the
seat belt buckle. On the left rail, I used another two 8x1.25 30mm
long bolts with 5 or 6 8mm washers to space it out. Somehow, the seat
bolted in perfectly the first try without any problems.
I have to take the seat out next week or the week after when I put my
carpet back in for a road trip, so while the seat is out I'll take all
sorts of pics and make drawings and measurements and everything. I'm
sure I've confuzed the crap out of you on this post...
Posted by: Disco Stu
on April 06, 2003 at 20:50:14.